Ok, here are the 2 videos of me pushing my car. The quality is bad and you will have to tilt your head, but they were not planned. I'll soon do normal quality and more extensive videoing. Still, you get the idea:
pumping the rearpumping the frontMind you, opposite to what you might think the video shows, to that day the front performs better than the rear!! The rear has not followed the front in improvement with respect to being able to deal even with the most sudden bumps/holes. Although very soft and fine in 95% of situations, when something very abrupt comes it still is "crashy", while the front is "rounding" 99% of the things you'll meet on the road. Clearly the cylinder cannot move fast enough -this is well demonstrated on a couple of motorway holes I pass everyday: the front wheel moves satisfactorily and falls in the hole, then the rear wheel doesn't and makes the car fall in the hole-.
There's no doubt the rear middle sphere is *in* circuit though, e.g. it "bottoms out" like a real Cit when starting up from a traffic light. However I was thinking perhaps because the rear cylinders work less than the fronts, and also have a smaller actual travel, the flushing has done less of a job overthere. E.g. the slaloming I do lately, that seems to have done so much good, obviously works the front much more extensively.
That's why I was already thinking of starting doing also some reverse-gear slaloming. Then I read DrTim's indy suggestion of violently braking going in reverse. So that's what I did last night in an empty car park, in various versions. I did a number of straight line braking -about 4-. Then I did the same but also steering at the moment of braking -another 4-. This was fun, in the last version the ABS came in every time.
Then straight afterwards I tried doing ups/downs as described in the other thread, with the suspension ECU off and suspension in "hard". It was funny....First of all, car is lower to move than when doing the same in "soft", both directions. I didn't count, but perhaps almost double the time. I did about 15 cycles. I think it moved a bit faster towards the end, but I'm not sure. There's obviously more resistance in that path: the front took 4-5 regulator's cycles to reach "highest", this means the pressure regulator has felt 4-5 times a pressure of 170 bars counteracting it. In my car it will only click 1 time or not at all to get it to "highest" with suspenion in "soft". For now I'm not able to know if this increased back pressure is because that path is narrower or because it is clogged up. I suspect a bit of both. It will show as I continue the routine.
Second, on the way "up", a loud "whistle" was produced by the car, somewhere at the rear, till it got to "highest". Then this would stop, and the front would start rising. This whistleling made me laugh because I had had it when I had first bought the car, before I ever used hydraflushed it. It did it -louder also- at exactly the same circumstance, i.e. when having put car to "lowest" and then to "highest", frightening people around. Obviously this is something to do with LHM passing under pressure from a passage it shouldn't pass. So that was either noise from the point I was putting under stress for the first time (the ball setup in the hydractive block) or the rear height corrector leaking. It wouldn't be the rear e-valve as this was "closed", the suspension being in hard (they are only known to develop a leak when in "open" position).
Third, the most striking (and worrying) effect is that the pressure regulator was clicking in very small intervals afterwards, like in the past before I ever put hydraflush: about 14secs, instead of 25+ which I had achieved with the flushing. This cycles of 14secs came for the first time after that devilish day in March 2006 when I had the car for 2 hours on "highest" engine running -just prior to that it had been doing about a minute-. The good news is that, with yesterday's experiment, I am able to say that 1/it is NOT the rear cylinders, 2/NOT the e-valve, 3/NOT the brake valve. All these items I was worried I destroyed because of exposing them to high pressure for 2 hours. But yesterday, the only items that received all the stress (pressure) are the height correctors being in the middle of high pressure between the accumulator sphere and the small AND/OR clogged alternative passage of LHM in the hyractive blocks.
Now, despite the pressure regulator cycling times having fallen to 14 secs (bad), the suspension's softness didn't look like the middle spheres were not opening. The opposite, on the way home after these routines, I have trown the car with a pleasure I don't remember doing since that single day in 2006 when it was working as it should. Because, one discovers, when the thing is workign as it should, it is not simply the comfort that improves, it is the whole hadling package -it becomes like a 5 meter GoKart-.
This event with the regulator clicking at 14secs proved what I have evidenced in other stages of this process, when the cycling time was ranging between 14 and 28 secs on a daily basis, but the softness remained absolutely the same: that, for getting and keeping the hydractive piston valves OPEN, it is much more important to get the pressure regulator tuned correctly (145-170bars) than to achieving a long cycling time. This would prove definitely that even if your cycling time is excellent, i.e. 1 minute, if the pressure range provided is below the specified, chances are you will have a hard suspension because the hydractive pistons cannot be pushed open. Also this finally proves that the critical thing that happenned to my car in 2006 was not that I created a huge leak of pressure, but that parts of the system got dirty and sticky: last night I had again a 14sec cycling time, but the car was comfortable almost like before I...damage it. In one small speed hump -u know, the thinnest ones from plastic- the rear has passed like cream, while till yesterday I would expect it to shake the car. Pitty I cannot know if this is due to the violent rearwards braking or to the ups/downs in hard mode.
I think overall this is excellent news. I'll probaly strip and clean the rear height corrector or put a new one, come summer -looks like it doens't shut entirely or just the piston leaking above a pressure point-. Can't wait to take the car again this weekend to confirm the changes -it's always a bit worse just after doing ups/downs-.
cheers
George