2.5td Brief Hydraulic History

Hi demag

The front is very accessible from underneath the car. You'd have to unbolt the 2 thick hydractive pipes coming in, and then the 2 high pressure pipes as in photo -these are better done with thin hands, if u know what I mean-. That's all. The whole thing is held on its bracket by 3 easy bolt-screws.

The rear is same but is hidden behind much stuff...

cheers
G

I'm not really sure why it was stuck, I just assumed corrosion was the reason hence the gentle heating.

I'm not surprised by the price of the Hydractive block, the Electrovalve a pricey part too. Luckily I picked up a few spares a couple of years ago for my Xantia and it happened to include a full Hydractive block (also got a 6+2 pump, regulator, anti sink valve and a few other connectors/valves).

I was thinking that If I put the car in hard mode electronically I could exercise it whenever stood in a line of traffic, etc.

The 'christenings' are quite a celebration aren't they? We had a great time. One or two of the British commented about the dipping and how it made Andoni cry but my attitude was it's his right of passage and his culture, his sister Anastacia didn't bat an eyelid.

As for the food where do you start? My favourite is Stefado. That said I'm quite keen on goat meat. Maybe I'll make that BBQ.

Hope the thesis goes well!

Steve.

Hey Steve, here's the answer to the above...

http://club-xm.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=3072&st=50

I thought we better not abuse Demag's thread more (Sorry demag!), this should be really a thread where he describes the developments in his car!

cheers
George

This post has been edited by jorgy9 on March 20, 2008 04:06 pm

About time too!!

To be honest George it is all relevant stuff though isn't it. Everyone posting on this thread has similar problems and we're all looking for that elusive answer.

Easter's looking a bit damp dark and cold though for any work.

Steve - stuck plug in hydractive block

Christophe Tatin has answered me from Activa list that he doesn't remember how he extracted this piece so he assumes it was not any difficult to do. From what I see in his document's photos, the external condition of his block was not rusted, so unless your block is rusted externally, then it can only be that this piece is stuck from within -which may say something about what's the situation in there?-. Let's see...

cheers
George

Hi,

It didn't look too bad but until it's taken apart who knows.

Steve.

Well today I've drained off enough LHM through the brake circuits to add another container of Hydroflush then the snow started.

I'll report back on any progress. Currently doing loads of press ups with the car in hard mode.

Steve.

An interesting thought crossed my mind the other day. The white XM which had lovely suspension was being driven about by it's previous owner in sport mode (all the time from what I gather) when the strut top failed and folllowing this he sold it. Could it be the continuous use of sport mode that helped keep the hydractive blocks working correctly or is it coincidence? I know that in S2 cars it doesn't lock into hard mode but just alters the switching points and duration. It seems unlikely I know.

Steve.

Have also thought the same, could be, who knows...
G

Well today there has been a development. I awoke this morning to see 3 inches of snow on the car and the back suspension on the bump stops. I assumed rightly or wrongly that the weight of the snow had disturbed the car and it dropped. The car sat like that until about 3pm when we went out for Sunday Lunch. I started the engine and the rear rose but as we drove up the road I noticed the back suspension felt solid! Very very bouncy like flat spheres. After about 1/3 of a mile the suspension reverted to its normal (firm) self. We drove about ten miles out of town for lunch and were probably in the pub for 1 1/2 hours. When we came out the rear was down again, not right down but on the way. When we got under way the back felt normal stiff again not bouncy. The car has now been on the drive for three hours and no sign of dropping!

I know there is still lots of gunge in the system and can only assume some valve or other was held open by a foreign body allowing the fluid to drain back

I can't wait for the weather to pick up so I can carry on and finish the rear spheres. I might take the rear centre off again and try bleeding while the engine is running, and do the two wheel spheres the same.

Sounds like u had an interesting Sunday!

btw do u have antisink? State of the sphere?

These symptoms with "hard at start up" then "soft a mile afterwards" or "soft if u do up then down" etc, I read lots in the Planete-Citroen forum, it is anti-sink related (if not height corrector), but don't ask me how...

cheers
George

Hi George, I think the anti sink is original. When I changed the rear centre sphere the a/s didn't look like it had been disturbed ever. If I remember all the spheres I changed have been original so far! So much for Citroen trained mechanics maintaining the car!

Just did 80,000 miles last week!

This post has been edited by demag on April 06, 2008 07:51 pm

So it makes sense if u also put it in the programme earlier rathen than later, to also take advantage of hydraflush flowing properly at those points (I guess).

Seems things are already moving though!

cheers
George

See "Hydraflush" thread, have moved it there rather than here.

This post has been edited by jorgy9 on April 09, 2008 12:32 am

Well I haven't done much to the Xm for some time now but I've noticed a marked deterioration in the front suspension. It is now worryingly firm again (not bouncy) and I give bad roads a lot of respect. I am hoping to get the Bx on the road soon (just needs tax) and then I can take a look at the Xm. I think I'll see if I can lube the hc's in the short term.

I still haven't replaced the rear spheres and until the Bx is done I don't really want to mess. Swmbo will NOT be happy with two dead cars! I have noticed another oddity recently, o/s front higher than n/s front Very strange. The back looks ok, just the front. Probably about 20mm in it looking at the wheelarch above the tyre.

One good point though, the rear has definitely softened up while on the move. But standing with the engine running still feels firm and looks slightly high. Interestingly though I had the steering tracked the other week and as the fitter drove into the garage it settled to the correct ride height at the rear as soon as he started the engine