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> Front struts mountings.
AndersDK
Posted: March 14, 2004 08:58 pm


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Just thought I'd post the link to Nylanders rep. kits for the front strut mountings.

http://w1.431.telia.com/~u43116231/
- with english pages.
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xmexclusive
Posted: June 17, 2005 02:43 pm


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Hi Noz and all

Anyone out there tried one of these kits?

regards

XMexec


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Location: Hampshire, U.K.
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noz
Posted: June 17, 2005 10:05 pm


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Hi Anders,

Long time no speak. how are you doing?

Thanks for your link. We're grateful for any help offered by our fellow members.

Have you managed to get yourself an Xm yet or are you still persevering with the BX's?

XMexec,
I've never used one of these repair kits but they look the part. Luckily, although I've had some strut top failures, I've always managed to find some 'new' ones from the scrap yard. I know they are very expensive to buy from Citroen (about £165 per side). The series 2 doesn't suffer from the problem of them coming through the bonnet like the series 1. The design was changed to prevent this. However, they still fail in terms of the rubber delaminating from the metal parts. That part they didn't redesign.

So the only recommendation I can offer is that if Anders thinks they are OK then I would have to believe him. Anders is a veteran of Andyspares and a highly respected Citroen buff.

How many SEK to the pound anyway?

Cheers

noz cool.gif


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xmexclusive
Posted: June 18, 2005 11:12 am


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Hi Noz

I have drawn a blank so far with servicable second hand strut heads. The enquiries for new ones discouraged me from ordering on cost grounds. I have been quoted something around £250 inc vat per strut head. My mole said that there had been a recent 33%+ increase in all XM parts not common with other models to cover the costs of holding and supplying obsolete parts. To actually verify this I asked for the price of a major part I purchased a year or so ago (Remote and plip set). approx £200 then, now £300.

I am very interested in your comments that Mk2 strut heads will not let the strut pop through due to redesign, also that the rubber on top the steel perishes or peels. Do you have a degree of tolerance on the secondhand struts you have used. If so what rules do you apply, if not where is the scrap yard with the supply of perfect strut heads.

I cannot understand why it is only the thin layer of rubber over the top of the steel that peels or perishes. I cannot believe that this is caused by salt corrosion as suggested in the latest CCC mag. I would expect to see other items in the same area also affected. On the cars parked outside I have found evidence that field mice like to nest around the strut tops (chewed hazel nuts, droppings etc) particularly the drivers side. Perhaps they pee on the rubber. I also notice that small patches of thin steel remain bonded to the perished rubber. This is typical of what happens when something is glued or bonded to a piece of steel that retains mill scale from manufacturing.

Where do we go from here, virtually every XM I look at has some sort of strut head corrosion underway.

Regards

XMexec


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xmexclusive
Posted: June 18, 2005 06:52 pm


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Hi noz and All

Still trying to make sense of the way forward on front struts and strut heads.
Options:
1. Purchase new at £250 per strut head. Certain to be the right bit eventually.
2. Nylanders repair kit. At 14 SEK to £1 a kit to do 2 strut heads on one car will cost a little bit over £100.
3. Servicable spare from scrap yard approx £25 per strut.
4. Do nothing, rely on Noz's prediction that Mk 2 struts don't pop up through the bonnet.

Well I guess I had better discount 1 & 4 for now.
If the Nylanders kit was not handed I would be very tempted to order up one kit and do the right hand struts in 2 cars at say £60 per car.
So for now it's option 3 and back round the scrap yards. I will just have to extend the search area.

This raises the next problem. How can I be sure that it is the correct strut head. I have studied the web site, the microfiches,Haynes, Russek and of course the CD. The resulting confusion led me to ring and ask one of the XM experts. Despite all this I don't have a definite answer. So I will set a summary of the information I have obtained and see if anyone out there can verify or otherwise comment on it.

Strut & Strut Heads - Sources and Information
Haynes - No help
Expert - would need detailed study of workshop manual
Russek - Modifications: New front supension cylinders have been fitted since 1991. When a cylinder or sphere support must be replaced, note that the new cylinders can be fitted to existing sphere supports. The new sphere supports cannot however be fitted to the earlier suspension cylinder. Fitting the earlier and later type cylinder on the same vehicle is permitted. Note for Hydractive Suspension: The pipe is fitted without a seal.
Microfiches - Suspension Cylinder Right (worked the example for one side only).
XM Series 1 (MIC00269A) Part code 95 663 043 to ORGA 5438.
XM Series 2 (MIC00271A)
Part code 95 663 043 ORGA 6444 to ORGA 7321. Smaller engined cars only.
Part code 5271 76 ORGA 6444 to ORGA 7321. Larger engined cars only.
Workshop Manual 1995 Model Year - The Citroen XM suspension (saloon & estate) is modified as a result of: the changed dia of the piston rods in the front suspension units of certain versions.
Small engined cars 22mm.
Large engined cars 25mm. Note: piston diameters remain unchanged at 40mm.
Citroen Publicity Brochures - Hydactive 2 definately across the whole range by 1995 model year and first referred to in 1991 brochure but not which cars fitted to.

From this I have concluded the following:

1. The strut was not changed when Hydractive 2 was introduced in 1991, only the strut head. This is based on both struts having the same number on the fiches.
2. Russeks restriction not to use new heads on old struts is simply because the Hydractive 1 small pipe cannot couple with the Hydractive 2 thread and not because of mechanical differences between the head and the strut.
3. At sometime later (1995 model year) thicker cylinder piston rods were introduced for the heavier engined cars but the cylinder piston size is unchanged at 40mm. This means that the hydraulic performance will be the same whatever the piston rod size.

THE RESULT

From this I have concluded that I need to recover struts and heads as a single assembly (noting ORGA and car type in case I am wrong). That any assembly with large Hydractive 2 connection will work correctly both mechanical and hydraulically provided that I do not separate the heads and cylinders or try to inter change them.

Sorry for the long diatribe but it's helped me sort out what to try.

Any comments gratefully accepted, otherwise watch this space.

Regards

XMexc




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chadders
Posted: February 02, 2006 08:49 pm


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Does anyone know if the Nylanders website is still active - i.e are these parts still orderable?

If not, does anyone know where I can get some strut-tops?

Ta


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Peter.N.
Posted: February 03, 2006 12:13 pm


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Is this strut head problem peculiar to certain models? only I have never heard of it with the 2.1 td, and certainly not experienced it.

Regarding spares prices, ther are a lot of new XM spares appearing on e-bay lately, sounds ominous doesn't it. Old ones are being scrapped like theres no tommorrow, I think we all ought to buy a spare car. (I know a lot of you have allready).

Peter.N.


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xmexclusive
Posted: February 03, 2006 03:21 pm


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Hi Peter and all

Only one spare car? If I had the space I would sorn another couple while they are available.
Rusted strut heads are common in all XM's it has just taken a while for the MK2's to age enough. Sorry but I have seen it in 2.1's and 2.0's as well as the 3.0 and 2.5's I own. Unfortunately very few scrap cars will provide servicable replacements and it is a particular problem with 2.5's and 3.0's because of the larger strut rod. 2.5/3.0 heads will fit 2.1/2.0's but not the other way round.

Regards

XMexc


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