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DerekW
Hi all,

Having had a cable break on my window gear, I removed the offending item to find that the cable drum is too badly chewed up to re-use.

I've decided to bite the bullet and order a new unit, but being aware that the series 1 design was superior to the series 2 the logical question is - is it possible to use the Series 1 kit in a Series 2 door?

Derek
noz
Derek,

Mechanically the S1 and S2 mechanisms share the same anchor points and glass fixing method. They look identical if you sit an S1 next to an S2. However, electrically is where you might fail. Definitely the S1 does not come with 'one-touch' so if your electrics are meant for 'one-touch' then you'll be struggling. If you don't have one-touch then the only possible other hurdle is the shape of the connector plug. You know they are all keyed and colour coded. I don't know if the S2 plug will fit into the S1 motor.

Sorru I couldn't be more help.

cheers

noz cool.gif
xmexclusive
Hi Derek

The Mk1 XM uses the same window winder motor on all 4 doors. The electrical connector is also common, Black socket on the motor and orange 3 pin plug with wires to the outer contacts only on the door wiring loom.
The Mk2 XM uses this same electrical connection and motor on all doors except the drivers door, it is only the winder frame rollers and wire that got more flimsy with the Mk2.
So you can use a Mk1 assembly in any door except the drivers door without altering the wiring. This information is based on the XM doors I have looked at (models up to 1997) and I think yours is newer than this.
I suspect that you cannot repair a Mk2 frame with a Mk1 kit.

Regards

XMexc
DerekW
Thanks chaps.

There are one or two anomolies that I hope you can still help me with:

Although of no pertinence to the job in hand, I had a 1990 SEi that had a one touch window winder - indeed the catalogue for that year shows it as standard on the Si, SEi, SD and SED models.

Looking at my unit, there is a motor attached to the gearbox/cabledrum assembly by four (I think they are called torque) screws. On the side of the motor is a black oblong electrical/electronic unit, attached to the motor at the end by a spring washer. This unit has a plug at the end with nine pins.

This is obviously the one-touch control unit, so is it possible to fit this bit to a Series one unit. Alternatively, is there any reason (what a waste) why I should not fit the Series 1 gearbox, cable drum and cables to the unit from my car? I suppose there are probably limit switches in there somewhere.

I just about destroyed the sticky foam liner inside the door card when I removed my unit. I'm determined to try everythingto avoid fitting a sub standard design part. Every time my wife opens her window I shudder.

Thanks again,

Derek


xmexclusive
Hi Derek

There is a XM Mk2 drivers side window motor on ebay now (currently £10 plus £7.50 post) Ebay item 4597541714 ends 20 Dec 12:39 seller is Karl31120. Note described as "someone has glued the plug to the motor but works ok". I have bought both bits and an XM on ebay from Karl and can recommend him.

If you look under Noz's self help on window winder cable repairs a few items down you will find one I submitted on putting Mk1 components into a Mk2 drivers door. Your XM is too good to do this too as you loose the anti pinch but there are photos of Mk1 and Mk2 mechanisms and a description of the differences. One touch on a Mk1 has its own electronic control box and drives a ordinary window motor. On a Mk2 one touch and anti pinch are integrated in the box mounted on the side of the motor.

Regards

XMexc
Gav
how does the anti-pinch device get reset? or how to check if its fitted / works? obviously I have repaired a few of the winders on my early mark 2 (6540) including the drivers. Hence i've disconnected the motor at some point but i am sure the anti-pinch device does not work - even with a lot of force i can not stop the window going up.

the xm manuals show the one touch and antipinch from 6383 but are these dates trust worthy (dare i suggest such a thing)
xmexclusive
Hi Gav and All

I seem to remember a description of the drivers window anti-pinch in the evolution part of the workshop manual. I have resisted the temptation to use my fingers and hands to check out anti-pinch functioning. Jerky movements and unexpected reversal of a closing window are part of the anti-pinch set up. If you have a drivers window motor with the black electronics box on the side and a multi way wiring connector then you have anti-pinch. Whether it works or not is another matter. I will see if I can look out the details when I have laid the new carpet in my work room and unheaped the main computer and the XM publications.

Regards

XMexc

Gav
i recall reading somewhere how you hold this button down, turn the ignition on,, press throttle, put head through window then it automatically calculates the required loading to squash your head - in increments then fully opens. I have never had any partial movements of the window during any setup process i've tried.

i'm just curious now because of the discussion about mk1 vs mk2 becasue i do definitely have one touch hence presumably a different connector to the motor. unfortunally i cant remember the details of the connector type or if any box of electrics existed. off the top of my head it was not obviously different from the other assemblies when i disected them for bits of cable apart from the cable drum cover fixing method.

if (when!) the assembly ever goes again i will take pictures for comparison.
DerekW
Hi XMexc,

Not sure what happened here, I put a post on at about 1.10pm today and it seems to have disappeared.

Basically I reported that I had been wrapping presents all morning and didn't log on and see your post regarding ebay until 1250. I immediately went to your ebay reference to find that the auction had closed at 1247! Story of my life.

Thanks for the info, though. I have downloaded and saved all the help files you mentioned (had to load up a copy of MS Works in order to see your pictures) and will peruse them at my leisure

Derek
xmexclusive
Hi Derek

Not a good evening, the cooker blew up, still the fire brigade have gone now.
Sorry you missed the ebay item but it went up to over £30 with postage so I guess they are a bit sought after.
I must have the remains of the one I replaced with a Mk1 assembly somewhere. I am certain that it was the electronics that was dead so with your motor and control box it might make a working one. When I find it I will let you know.

Regards

XMexc
DerekW
Grateful to you, XMexc, hope there wasn't too much damage done.

Derek
xmexclusive
Hi DerekW

The only real damage is going to be the price of a new cooker. Having looked round today I find that I am going to have to shell out the sort of money that gets you a fairly respectable XM, I hate to think what the electrician will charge. And of course there is the colour match problem as they no longer make green cookers. Still I did manage to order the bearing for the 2.5 balancer belt. Will look out the window bits and post a note when normality returns/

Regards

XMexc
xmexclusive
Hi DerekW

I have just found the missing Mk2 drivers window motor frame in the back corner of the shed. It looks as though the wire and rollers are all intact and ok. The only bit that is missing is the motor and control box. I can remember taking these off to see if I could repair the failed motor. If you want it for the cost of the postage then let me know and I will put it in the post.

Regards

XMexc
DerekW
Hi All,

Just to keep the rest of the Forum up to date, XMexclusive very kindly sent me his window mechanism (the packaging was a work of art!). Having assembled my motor and control box to it I then stripped my old mechanism out of the door, removed the window as per Haynes and started trying to solve Norrie's Chinese puzzle of fitting the new bits back into the door. It was such a nice day that I decided to work outside and take advantage of the light. I decided quite quickly that it wasn't going in with the motor and control box attached so off they came. Finally had to give up when the light failed with the mechanism still outside the door. Ho hum, tomorrow is another day

Derek
xmexclusive
Hi DerekW

It came out in one piece so it should go back in. It was some time ago and I seem to remember having to clamp the window glass at full height to release the frame then rotate it, fiddle it around the side impact bar, squeeze the motor and the frame together and draw it out the large bottom hole. Pleased you liked the packing, I was just looking for a way to stop the postmans boot from bending it double and had some offcuts from lining the shed in hardboard.

Regards

XMexc
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