noz
January 25, 2006 12:08 am
My 2.5 runs at 95ish most of the time rising by 2-5 degrees when
towing the caravan. The temperature control of the water jacket
happens in two distinct stages. From cold, the water is circulated
throughout the cylinder head circuit and does not go near the
radiator at all. Once the c/head is up to operating temperature the
thermostat starts to open. This allows SOME of the water to be
passed out to the radiator. On a cold day, particularly if you are
moving and there's a flow of air over the radiator then the water
will cool down rapidly and if left like this it will sub-cool the
engine below its preferred temperature. So the thermostat, seeing
the lower temperature, will close slightly until a balance is
reached. The radiator fans will play no part in the cooling role
during this time. However, as the air temperature rises or the car
comes to a standstill with the engine still running the water
temperature starts to rise because the radiator can't reject of all
of the heat. The c/head temperature therefore continues to rise
until the thermostat is fully open. If the c/head and radiator still
cannot dispose of the required amount heat then the temperature will
rise even further. Only then will the temperature sensor on top of
the block start the fans via the Bitron unit, on slow speed at
first. Continuing the hypothesis, if the slow fan speed still cannot
dispose of the heat (say on a hot summers day) then the temperature
will rise even further. At that point the Bitron brings on both fans
at full speed. If the temperature continues to rise, you're stuffed -
call the AA !!!. Logically, the reverse procedure takes place as
the temperature begins to fall.
Of course all of the above scenario takes place within a few
degrees, mostly within the thickness of the needle on the dash so
its not very noticable but thats how it works. For the electronics
people amongst us the thermostat will be proportional control only
so you will see the temperature difference on the needle. However,
the Bitron unit for the fan control is more than likely to have P+I
(Proportional + Integral) control and due to its inherent cleverness
will not exhibit the same temperature difference to achieve the same
control, hence the slight movement on the needle over the whole
control range. Anorak bit over ;-(
Blocked radiators or indeed any part of the cooling circuit will
reduce the heat rejection capacity and bring the fans into play much
sooner than they would otherwise. Increased temperatures on the dash
will also be evident.
cheers
noz