Hi,
Just back from a trip up North where I had to make 2 repairs because of the underbonnet fusebox.
Repair 1 - The heater fan stopped, but the ceiling fan was still working. Checked fuse - intact, but burned. Broke as I tried to remove it, leaving the leg of one half in the connector in the fusebox. Oh dear I thought....or somesuch. No chance of removing it. Ended up (in a Halfords car park near Sheffield) putting a temporary link from the battery via an inline fuseholder ( same as we use in gliders and 30A rated) to the fan feed.
Repair 2 - next day. Car wouldn't start. Nothing at the glowplugs, yet there was 12V at the glow plug relay input. The supply must have been disturbed by my first repair, it had gone 'soft' and simply pulled to ground when the relay energised. 2 more temporary fuseholders in place, no idea what current was going to be required, I assumed 40amp minimum. 2x20A fuses blew, ended up at 55A (a 30A and a 25A)
This fusebox is a pain in the TCT as well as the 2.5.
I'd like to replace them both, I assume that others have done the same - so I thought I'd ask what box people used. The original fusebox can be bought new still, but really I'd prefer something of higher quality.
My search for fusebox came up with lots of hits, but I didn't see anything about replacing it.
Rebecca
Full Version Underbonnet fusebox fun
oh yeah, to add to the 'fun' - the starter isn't always operating when I turn the key.
I doubt that it was a previously not functioning starter inhibitor, or is this a feature that I've just not ever seen before?
Could be a poor battery connection - there is more than 40A going already because of the glow plugs.
I doubt that it was a previously not functioning starter inhibitor, or is this a feature that I've just not ever seen before?
Could be a poor battery connection - there is more than 40A going already because of the glow plugs.
Hi Rebecca,
Replacement of the fusebox with a like for like from another PSA model is possible but does nothing to fix the overheating heater fuse.
The alternative fix which I have done on my 2.1TD is to take the wires to F2 fuse out of the box and connect them to an external Maxi fuse + holder of the same amp rating. The Maxi fuse has more metal and contact area and overheating at high current loads does not happen unlike the smaller original F2.
See also this thread http://club-xm.com/forum/index.php?showtop...107&hl=fuse+box
A likely caue of non starter operation is worn/resistive ignition switch contacts which do not allow sufficient current to pass for pulling in the starter solenoid.
Two repair options:
1. Replace the ignition switch - availability might be a problem.
2. Use a relay to supply 12v+ directly to the starter solenoid. The starter switch is used to supply the small pull in current for the relay. This is a fairly common fix.
'How to' details can be found in the self help section of club-xm.co.uk (See this thread which also covers the fix re automatic cars http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3623).
Ken
Replacement of the fusebox with a like for like from another PSA model is possible but does nothing to fix the overheating heater fuse.
The alternative fix which I have done on my 2.1TD is to take the wires to F2 fuse out of the box and connect them to an external Maxi fuse + holder of the same amp rating. The Maxi fuse has more metal and contact area and overheating at high current loads does not happen unlike the smaller original F2.
See also this thread http://club-xm.com/forum/index.php?showtop...107&hl=fuse+box
A likely caue of non starter operation is worn/resistive ignition switch contacts which do not allow sufficient current to pass for pulling in the starter solenoid.
Two repair options:
1. Replace the ignition switch - availability might be a problem.
2. Use a relay to supply 12v+ directly to the starter solenoid. The starter switch is used to supply the small pull in current for the relay. This is a fairly common fix.
'How to' details can be found in the self help section of club-xm.co.uk (See this thread which also covers the fix re automatic cars http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3623).
Ken
Thanks Ken
I looked at the maxi-fuse holders and pondered, but bought the cheaper blade fuse holders on the basis that I was going to replace the poxy fuseholder.
Non-starting thing happened 3 more times and hasn't recurred - yet.
Bodging a relay in to the starter solenoid circuit may end up being the way to go - although WHM have a lot of XMs in their yard - it's just a pain changing 4 locks.
I looked at the maxi-fuse holders and pondered, but bought the cheaper blade fuse holders on the basis that I was going to replace the poxy fuseholder.
Non-starting thing happened 3 more times and hasn't recurred - yet.
Bodging a relay in to the starter solenoid circuit may end up being the way to go - although WHM have a lot of XMs in their yard - it's just a pain changing 4 locks.
Steering lock/ignition switches are available from mister-auto.co.uk. They sell authentic Valeo products, it seems. You won't have to replace 4 door locks (+ boot lock?), but you'll just have 2 different keys, which is not so bad. I remember the days you had different keys for the ignition, the doors, boot and fuel filler 
Correct me if I am wrong.
There is a thread on starting problems with the 2.1 on the other forum:
http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p...t=3609&start=10
Correct me if I am wrong.
There is a thread on starting problems with the 2.1 on the other forum:
http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p...t=3609&start=10
I think replacing the fuse box like for like is a reasonable fix.
The originals took at least 5 years, often longer to burn out from new.
No cabling mods so fairly easy to do once you know how.
While there are a few NOS boxes on ebay for around £25 this is not essential.
The box was used on a large number of Citroen and Peugeot cars of the same age.
So plenty available from scrap yards for around £5.
It is important NOT to get a replacement one from an XM.
No other PSA car over-loaded the fuses so F2 contacts will be as new.
So good for at least 5 years.
If a permanent fix is wanted then I have used cable crimping and large current fuses.
These I recover with cabling from scrap Mk2 XM's.
The big fuses clipped on the front of the battery boxes are ideal.
The fuse cases are designed to clip together so just clip onto the front of the existing fuse(s).
Most Mk 2's have one fuse here but 2.5's have two.
A stack of 3 is fine and with a big 40 amp fuse it never overheats.
I will try to remember to add up some photos to this.
On the ignition switch some recent experiences made me think again.
Unreliable starting problems so I swapped the switch for a new Valeo one.
It fixed things but only took a couple of weeks to return.
The only other components I had worked on were undoing the battery terminals.
They were original Citroen ones in poor condition.
Replacing them gave another short term fix.
So I had another look at the replacement battery terminals.
The clamping was two point contacts so I added copper strips to improve things.
Again it worked for a while but not for long.
On checking the clamps I also looked at the fine braided copper of the wires.
The wires were long term oxidised, got like this in the Citroen soft metal clamps.
I obtained a set of high (electrical) quality battery clamps.
Cut the cable back to clean copper and used electricians crimps to connect up.
It has made an amazing difference to the starting.
It is my only 2.5 that fires as you turn the key.
If the ignition switch wiring really is defective another Simplex is worth considering.
It will be secondhand but you could then fit the replacement wiring to your lock.
That avoids the different key issues.
It is worth noting that changing the Simplex ignition lock can be done insitu.
I arranged this for a XM owner who had had his ignition lock attacked by thieves.
The wiring has just enough slack for the ignition switch to pull out its housing.
You can then undo the torx screw that holds the electrical switch to the lock.
He sent me a key, I retumblered a Simplex lock to suit and sent it back.
Sadly I cannot work out how to retumbler Valeo ignition locks.
John
The originals took at least 5 years, often longer to burn out from new.
No cabling mods so fairly easy to do once you know how.
While there are a few NOS boxes on ebay for around £25 this is not essential.
The box was used on a large number of Citroen and Peugeot cars of the same age.
So plenty available from scrap yards for around £5.
It is important NOT to get a replacement one from an XM.
No other PSA car over-loaded the fuses so F2 contacts will be as new.
So good for at least 5 years.
If a permanent fix is wanted then I have used cable crimping and large current fuses.
These I recover with cabling from scrap Mk2 XM's.
The big fuses clipped on the front of the battery boxes are ideal.
The fuse cases are designed to clip together so just clip onto the front of the existing fuse(s).
Most Mk 2's have one fuse here but 2.5's have two.
A stack of 3 is fine and with a big 40 amp fuse it never overheats.
I will try to remember to add up some photos to this.
On the ignition switch some recent experiences made me think again.
Unreliable starting problems so I swapped the switch for a new Valeo one.
It fixed things but only took a couple of weeks to return.
The only other components I had worked on were undoing the battery terminals.
They were original Citroen ones in poor condition.
Replacing them gave another short term fix.
So I had another look at the replacement battery terminals.
The clamping was two point contacts so I added copper strips to improve things.
Again it worked for a while but not for long.
On checking the clamps I also looked at the fine braided copper of the wires.
The wires were long term oxidised, got like this in the Citroen soft metal clamps.
I obtained a set of high (electrical) quality battery clamps.
Cut the cable back to clean copper and used electricians crimps to connect up.
It has made an amazing difference to the starting.
It is my only 2.5 that fires as you turn the key.
If the ignition switch wiring really is defective another Simplex is worth considering.
It will be secondhand but you could then fit the replacement wiring to your lock.
That avoids the different key issues.
It is worth noting that changing the Simplex ignition lock can be done insitu.
I arranged this for a XM owner who had had his ignition lock attacked by thieves.
The wiring has just enough slack for the ignition switch to pull out its housing.
You can then undo the torx screw that holds the electrical switch to the lock.
He sent me a key, I retumblered a Simplex lock to suit and sent it back.
Sadly I cannot work out how to retumbler Valeo ignition locks.
John
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