noz
September 19, 2012 08:07 pm
Hi Rob,
You do realise of course that you're going to get a biased answer to your question? (look at my signature below for a hint)
Those are not catastrophic faults. they are not even very expensive faults. I have replaced the rear pipes before. They are a bit fiddly, yes. But the technique is to get the old one off and, using a piece of string, follow the pipe around all of the coils and bends such that by the end of the pipe the string now measures the total length of the pipe. Any of us will then make you up a pipe of the correct length I'm sure (I will in any case). Then, again with the string, measure from the strut tend to the start of the first coil. Next, find a suitable cylinder of the correct diameter and wind the new pipe around the cylinder the same number of times as the old pipe. Using the old pipe as a guide put the kinks and bends in the new pipe to match. Accuracy is not a major issue unless you intend to enter the car for concourse.
If there is one tricky bit, its the two right angled bends, one each end of the coil with one fixed to the body and the other fixed to the swinging arm. The two quadrant plates which are bolted to their respective parts are usually corroded and need a bit of persuasion to get the bolts out in one piece. You need to try to save the bolts and bolt holes since it is resonably omportant to put the plates back on. Its the plates which anchor the pipes to the other parts and in so doing, force the coil to take up all the movement.
Please, please don't scrap your XM. There are precious few 2.5TDs and we need to keep them mobile. Club members are here and willing to help you do that. If you need any help with clearer or more detailed instructions please don't hesitate to get back in touch. Although I probably knew once, I've forgotten. Whereabouts in the country are you?
cheers
noz