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steelcityuk
Hi,

I'm sure I read on the forum someone say they buy door liner foam but I can't remember who and I can't find the thread.

Please point me in the right direction.

Thanks.

Steve.
Ciaran
Might have been me? I mentioned that you can get soundproofing stuff in rolls as its popular with the 'sub in boot' crowd for acoustic reasons.

I'm not sure exactly where sells it, but its a pretty popular item, might even be a Halfords job.

I also remember Robertxmb saying something about sticking the existing door sheet to...something, to reduce noise too.

Sorry if neither of these are the posts you were thinking of.

Ciarán
Dieselman
I've got a quantity of black foam carpet underlay. I wonder if that would do.
rowanmoor
From my failed attempts to get my passenger door back on to my liking I have found that there is very little tollerance for extra thickness of anything between the door metal and the door card. Anything that is not in the right place or too thick causes the door card to be pushed too far out and the bolt in the middle won't go back in and/or the surround to the handle won't go back without fouling the handle.

I would have though that any replacement that was not of similar thickness to the original would cause such a problem if it was not suitably compressible. Therefore I would have thought that carpet underlay is out.
jorgy9

Hi all

I've used sheets of black rubbery sound-proofing material of the type used from hi-fi fans, behind both front and rear doors' cards. It was between 1-2 milimeters thick. Thicker is not possible as Rowan says, due to the middle bolt-holes not aligning.

cheers
George
robertxmb
With care, foam in good condition can be removed from around door apertures and replaced. I used double sided tape around the perimeter to reseal against water. Otherwise a foam wrapping of the sort used in packing electrical goods is a possibility.
I recall a Citroen replacement sheet selling for £15 on ebay!

Robert.
rowanmoor
How much difference does it make to the noise having a complete or new sheet compared to ones with lots of holes? I may consider re-doing my passenger door at some point if it makes much difference. There is far more noise in the car than there used to be, and I think it comes from that door.
steelcityuk
The reason for asking is that the foam on my front doors is full of big holes, to replace the window mechs no doubt. So I was wanting to not only ensure the car is quiet but also put back that layer of waterproofing that it offers, waterproofing being the main reason. I suppose I could stick polythene on followed by foam but if the genuine article is available for a fair price that would be easier.

Steve.
rowanmoor
I have this vague feeling that that ebay price was because no-one bid up the price - I don't think it bares any resemblance to the Citroen price for a new foam. I can't check Citroen Service from work otherwise I could look it up.
robertxmb
QUOTE (rowanmoor @ Feb 27 2009, 12:54 PM)
I have this vague feeling that that ebay price was because no-one bid up the price - I don't think it bares any resemblance to the Citroen price for a new foam.

[QUOTE]

No it doesn't. Hope you are sitting down; sealing sheet listed in roll 8000 x 500 x 5
(mm) is £202.09. incl.vat. ph34r.gif

Robert.
Ciaran
So thats 200 quid... PER DOOR???!!

WTF! wacko.gif ph34r.gif

Ciarán
Dieselman
Big door at 8 metres long. More like 15 doors out of a roll.
robertxmb
Well, allowing for "nesting" the pattern the average width is around 750mm per door which is more like 10 per roll. If anyone is thinking of clubbing together for a roll to share count me out. I experimentally manage to peel the foam up on a door when replacing window cables and reused it. Needs patience and heatgun but do-able.
I have seen thi foam before perhaps in upholstery suppliers as layer before final cover. The original has a thin layer of film on one side for waterproofing. So it would be necessary to put a film on first and stick the outsourced foam to that.

Robert.
steelcityuk
It looks like it will be a case of spray adhesive and polythene from B&Q followed by some thin foam from the shop.

I may just check out the price of Dynamat first.

Thanks for the info guys.

Steve.
jorgy9

Hi Steve

No need to use Dynamat or any branded stuff (silly expensive for now reason I believe, although by no means expert in acoustics or anything similar), I did my left-hand side doors 2-3 years ago with just the cheapest dynamat-type of insulating material I found on ebay -I do the doors as the electric windows mechanisms go!-. Of course you still have to use some kind of plastic film in place of the original water-protecting foam. Or "repair" the cuts with grey tape (that's what I did and there's absolutley no water-ingrees problem).

Just don't buy thicker than 2mm, the door card won't fit back.

As u can see on photo attached, I just secured the thing with 2-3 tie-wraps here and there -use the various holes u will find-. Also, note that the lower half is not stuck but hanging. Problem is the vent duct that passes at the lower part of the door. So what I did is, after you've placed back the doorcard but before u tap the plastic thingies around, like a magician insert your arm and put the hanging sheet through the vent pipe -of course u need to have cut the sheet appropriately to shape before-. Then proceed to securing the doorcard. In the sheet on photo I tried to cover entirely the most area I could cover. Where it's cut, it means that there was no space for it.

cheers
George

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