I suddenly have a problem on my 1993 SEI Auto, with a burst/holed brake pipe and significant loss of fluid and the location is at the rear, kerbside, between the chassis tubular cross member and petrol tank. Unfortunately the damaged section of pipe is hidden up above the chassis member and any repair will I fear involve removal or displacent of the tank. It seems quite a odd place to develop a leak and I wonder if other members have had similar experiences? Does anyone have more precise knowledge of the routing of the pipework across the rear of the car and tips for the likely work involved I would be most grateful. Regards, Matthew T.

Yep, been here myself and seen it scrap one Xm and very nearly another and there are
incidences on the forum of other members suffering similar calamity as you.

Can you safely determine exactly where the leak is by getting the car supported on ramps?
Are you absolutely certain the leak is the high pressure circuit or a lange volume lost over
a longer period suggesting the leak is low pressure return?

The remedy is to slightly drop the rear subframe on the nearside and run a new section
of pipe in. This is the most cost effective if you're a reasonably competent DIY'er. For this
route, the main outlay would be sourcing/borrowing/buying a pipe flare tool and then buy
new cupronickel pipe from GSF. They list a 50metre roll of 3.5mm reel and the hollow bolts
are around 50-60p each

A local Indy Cit guy would be an alternative solution though this will obviously ramp up the
costs of the repair.

Andrew

Thank you for your comments Andrew. As yet I cannot tell exactly which pipe is leaking, but with the brake pedal applied the oil is literally pouring out!! I have put the car on ramps and been underneath and also removed the exhaust heat shield to improve visibility and access, but unfortunately the pipes disappear above the subframe and presumably then run along the top. I was interested to hear it might be possible to drop the subframe (rather than the petrol tank) and repair the pipe rather than replace an entire section and I will certainly try and do what I can myself. Any other information would be most welcome. Regards, Matthew T.

Hi Mathew

I've been there as well, you may be able to get to it by dropping the exhaust but if it is necessary to drop the subframe its not to difficult. There are only two bolts each side, the n/s side is the easiest to work on as you can drop the subframe lower. Slacken the bolts on the o/s a couple of turns and then completely remove the n/s ones, supporting the weight of the subframe of course.

Mine had broken a couple of inches from a junction where there is a small loop of pipe sticking up. The most difficulty I had was unscrewing the fitting from the junction, after taking all the corners off I slid a nut over the fitting and welded it on then gripped the junction with a pair of molegrips and it came undone.

You will need from Pleiades, a 3.5 mm flaring tool, 3 X 3.5mm pipe fittings, 1, 3.5mm female coupling, 3, seals and a length of pipe.

Cut the pipe in a convenient position, flare the end after having slid a fitting over it, cut a suitable length of pipe to go from where you cut it to the union, put a fitting on each end, flare the pipes and screw it all together.

It not as difficult as it sounds once you have the fitting undone

Peter.N.

Having just re read your mail it could be the brake pipe that is coiled near the end of the suspension tube. The same applies although you will have to allow enough pipe to make the coil. Wind it round a former before you fit it to make a nice neat job. You should be able to get to that one by removing the exhaust.

Peter.N.

Wind it round a former .........................

I seem to recall that the perfect - and available - former for the coil is a Coke bottle!

Many thanks Peter and Techmanagain. It was very helpful and encouraging to receive advice on dropping the subframe for access to the brake pipes, which I am sure will be necessary in my case, and also the repair of the pipes. I think there is a good chance the leak is from the coiled brake pipe, which I note from a diagram of the rear axle (see attached) passes along the top of the subframe en route to the middle sphere - the Haynes manual notes the rear brakes are fed via the suspension. The collection of pipes that runs along the underneath of the car on the kerbside I asssume is feeding the rear brakes and suspension and also appears to be routed towards the centre sphere. As ever membership of the Forum has proved extreemely beneficial!! Best regards, Matthew T.

Hallo, i have a problem with broken 3,5 mm pipe, but where do i get this Pleiades tool, i looked their website but this site not working, do you have some working link or something?

Pleiades
telephone +44 (0) 1487 831239
mobile 07724675796
www.Citroen-hydraulics.com
Pleiades,
Green End House,
Scotney Way,
Sawtry,
Cambridge

John

I had a similar problem and dropping the subframe was really quite straight forward thanks to the instructions on this site. I got a complete new pipe from Automec who delivered it the next day at a very reasonable price.
The problem was caused by the clip that holds the pipe to the axle but also traps condensation and grit.
Whilst the subframe is lowered the anti-sink sphere magically appears as well