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rayfry
mad.gif I have just forked out nearly £120 for a clutch cable for my 2.1td xm (m reg '95)Doe anyone else want to form a torchlight rally and burn a certain building in Slough to the ground?
kenhall1202
Hi Rayfry,

As a matter of interest how did your clutch cable fail? Was it the self adjusting mechanism that gave up the ghost? The reason I ask is that my cable adjuster (I think) periodically makes alarming crunching noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Ken
rayfry
Ken,
As far as I can make out the cable is not the self ajusting type.The cable snapped (I'm not sure where as I've not taken it off yet)as I depressed the clutch pedal to change gear. I had to drive the rest of the way home changing gear without a clutch .I've just obtained the new cable from the suppliers and I'm about to have it fitted
Ray
Ciaran
I sympathise.
I recently had to pay 395 euro for the clutch itself for my 2.1, but the gearbox was screwed anyway so collateral damage really.

I have heard of the cables being replaced with generic lengths of stuff, but dunno how reliable / doable that is...

Ciarán
xmexclusive
Hi All

Just a word of warning one of my SORN cars is a 95M TCT estate. It came my way simply because the owner gave up on it with the final straw being the failure within a month of the replacement new clutch cable. He thought that his experienced Citroen Indy had managed to damage the adjuster on installation but could not prove it. Driving it home from West London with almost no clutch travel and no disengagement was an interesting experience.

Regards

John
citroenxm
Hmmmm.. interesting..

What I removed my 24v engine and box for a gearbox swap, in the process of putting it all back, I pulled the cable back inplace on the gear box, then went in the car to press the pedal, the pedal then suddenly went to the flour and stayed there!!!

I tried to pull the cable back out the other end but nothing would come through... so I took the end back off the box, went back into the car pulled the pedal back up by hand and it stayed up - theres like a spring action to hold the pedal up as well as down.. anyway, I re-hooked the cable back over the gearbox, tried again, had a small clunk, and it all went perfect again... no problem...!

How strange it that!... Im sure it was something to do with the auto adjuster, and Im even begining to think it could have been the cause of the crunching gearbox syndrome I had, as when I had BOTH boxes apart, they looked identical!

Rgds
Paul
aengus-xmv6
on thing to note with the clutch pedal travel...

once the clutch is worn past a certain point, the pedal will not return back to the 'normal' position, but remain close to the floor. You can still use the clutch to change gear, but it will be much heavier in operation and after a few more miles (00's maybe) the clutch will start to slip in use.

I continued to use both mine for quite a while until I had time to get the clutch done, with only a couple inches of pedal travel. Only thing to bear in mind is the rick of scoring the flywheel if you wear it right down to the rivets wink.gif

The heaviness of the clutch operation will add extra load to the cable which I guess could make it fail, but it could fail in 3 different places:

1. the cable itself
2. the triangular nylon/plastic pivot on RHD cars,
behind the engine on the bulkhead
(the cable eyes extend and may/will eventually fail)
3. the link connecting the cable to the top of the clutch pedal
(not heard of one fail on an XM, Xant is common)

So far, not had a cable fail, but on both the 2.0SEi and current V6 SEi, the pedal travel and heaviness was common when the clutch was due replacement. Once done, normal operation returned.

hth
Dave
xmexclusive
Hi All

Found a little 16 page booklet:

Citroen All Types - June 1996
Ref BRE 0216 GB
TRANSMISSION
Operating principle:
Clutch cable with automatic adjusting device.

It seems that there are three different designs of automatic adjuster:
Roller Type
Claw Type
Notch Type

Only Citroen could keep their options open by using all three types at the same time.

When I get the chance I will extract the key elements and add it to this post.

Regards

John
kenhall1202
Hi John,

That would be much appreciated. The clutch cable adjusting mechanism is one of those 'out of sight out of mind' parts of the XM where it would be useful to be armed with a bit of pre-knowledge for when things go wrong.

Regards

Ken
rayfry
Hello All,
I've just found out that the tri-angular plasic pivot has failed and I'm going to try and repair it when it is replaced.
The cable itself has no ajustment on it at all,neither manual nor auto
Ray fry
kenhall1202
Hi Ray

One more question - what was the Citroen part number of the clutch cable you purchased?
The Citroen Service website does not list a cable for my Mk2 2.1TD (XUD11BTE engine) but has three shown for a Mk1. These are 2150 J5 (ME5T gearbox except diesel), 2150 J6 (BE3 gearbox and XU10J2 engine) and 2150 J7 (ME5T gearbox and XUD11ATE (diesel)).
Cable 2150 J7 seems the closest match.

Regards

Ken
Peter.N.
The only 2.1 cables I have had dealings with, one which broke on my first Mk1 and the one I have just done the clutch on, had the same type of auto adjuster. There is a spring around the top outer part of the cable which you must compress to release the adjuster, otherwise you will damage it by trying to stretch it. I made up a very simple tool to do this from a wire coat hanger. Straighten it out and form a hook about 1/2" across on one end, and form the other end into a handle. engage the hooked end into the spring as near to the pivot point as you can get it, its a bit of a fiddle as its behind the engine but it can be done. Pull hard to compress the spring and at the same time pull on the end of the cable, it would be easier with two people but I managed it by myself, you should be able to pull it out far enough to hook it on the clutch lever.

Peter.N.
aengus-xmv6
Hi Ray,

repair to the pivot probably won't be too successful but I guess you could try to fabricate something out of another material. The cable to the clutch arm and the link to the pedal will put a lot of tensile strain on the pivot block and then there's the wear on the link points too.

Surprised about the comment on lack of adjuster though, is there a spring on the cable where it runs along the bulkhead? If yes, then it'll have auto-adjust. Otherwise, probably is at the gearbox end of the cable. Maybe the auto adjust has come off after the pivot failed, as teh spring would likely have helped it on its way.

I've seen on one of my earlier cars (that was high mileage but had spent a fair bit of its time in town traffic) that the eyes had ovalled so was only a matter of time. Probably cars that are in town a lot or driver riding the clutch pedal for much of the journeys would suffer more than high-miler motorway cruisers (assuming traffic is moving rather than crawling).

keep us posted though...

regards
Dave
rayfry
Ken, the part no. on thr clutch cable is 2150.J7
Dave,Once again there is no ajuster on this cable .An ajuster would ajust the length of the cable and that simply is not there .As far as I can make out the spring which runs along the outer cable allows the cable to be drawn over the anchor point on the g/box once the end has been fitted to the clutch accuating arm.Then if the clutch arm becomes stiff or heavy in operation this spring will compress to take up the movement of the clutch pedal,but this in no way can be described as an ajuster.The clickiing ,clanking sound is made by this spring compressing and rubbing against the outer cable which runs inside the spring. this noise is not always the same and can vary fron 5 or 6 clicks with the pedal staying on the floor to one click,smooth movment of the pedal and pretty normal operation all in a few moments.
Ray
aengus-xmv6
hi Ray,

the adjustment is done by the outer body of the cable and not on the wire/cable itself. The cable core is the correct length for the application, but apparently there are some cables out ther with adjustment facilities too. The spring forms part of that mechanism and there's a part that sits near the pivot on the bulkhead fitting that has some deviously ingenious operating method. It#s described in the Russek manual to some extent.

regards
Dave
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