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onthecut
Hi all.

Just a quick post regarding stripping out the dash for bulb renewal or other gremlins. I followed one of the excellent pdf posts by Noz / Peter, but one little bit I would add if you've not done it before or recently, which I didn't spot in the file -----
When removing the black cover on the rear of the instrument pack and the one on the rear of the clock / trip computer, take care to withdraw them directly away from the workpiece, rather than waggle them about any which way. The reason they don't just come off when the retaining screws are removed is that each carry a pcb of their own connected to their mating halves by a row of stiff wire fingers. It is these you will be bending and twisting with anything other than a straight pull.

I was chiefly looking to inspect and adjust the speedo connection at the plug, as per the pdf file. I don't know whether they have been very slightly modified, but I found it impossible to tease out and crimp together the 'knife' prongs as they seemed to sit in their own slight recesses and the force of trying to get a very fine implement down the back of them to draw them across resulted in the curved top of each collapsing down.

Other final point; I decided to change all the bulbs while I had it in pieces, so bought three boxes of the relevant bulbs (10 each). Luckily decided to test each one prior to refitting and was hacked off to find every box had two duds, one having three. So --- if you're doing the big bulb refit, definitely worth checking them before you put it all back together. The bulbs were 'Ring', for reference,

Mike.
DoubleChevron
There's a pdf for dismantling the dash..... Doh !!! Now I find out....

Have a look at page 7 here to see scarey XM piccies unsure.gif wacko.gif

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthrea...?t=59918&page=7
John Malkovich
A slight offtopic on dismantling the dashboard. Someone recently noted that uncomfortable situation of working on the dashboard with our face too close to the steering wheel airbag. After I had read that post, I began thinking about the potential blow every time I tamper around. Are we indeed at risk?
onthecut
Hi John.

Now you mention it !!

Joking aside, I believe the official advice is to disconnect the battery and walk away for at least ten minutes, after which time all is safe. Just a case of making sure you have the radio code and being prepared for the alarm to start blasting when you power up again.

Mike.
Peter.N.
Sorry about omitting the 'straight pull' so as to not bend the pins, I intended to put that, but forgot wacko.gif

Peter.N.
DerekW
I replaced the standard wheel and column on my wife's ZX with a later airbag model. It was straightforward, a control unit with a plug that connected to the airbag in the wheel hub with the electrical connections made through a slip ring. I didn't even disconnect the battery whilst I fitted it.

I would immagine that there's some sort of inertia ("G") switch in the control box, so as long as you don't jar the wheel quite severely there should be no danger of inadvertent firing.

I certainly didn't disconnect the battery when I renovated my digital display.

Derek
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