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Club XM Forum > Hydraulics Issues
Ciaran
Evening guys smile.gif

I've just had a fun time attempting to change the rear pads and discs on the S2 this evening.

The pad retaining bolt was so stuck (it looks like it has never been out in the car's entire life), that after unscrewing for a while, decided it would shear off at one end. Thats problem number one.

The next thing, is of course the obligatory failure / mangling of head of the wee grub screw which holds the disc on. Having done the fronts 18 months ago, I should have remembered about these little shits, but ever the optimist, I was under the impression that they actually made from a substance stronger than fromage frais, seemingly not.

My question is, are these available from GSF and the like, or will I be stuck going to Citroen? Furthermore, if that is the case, does anyone know their correct part names?
The bolts, I can probably get from a good hardware shop (B&Q aren't a good hardware shop it seems), but the little grub screws, may be more difficult to obtain in the correct size and shape. Given the state of the existing ones, I suspect they'll have to be drilled out

I'm expecting the other side to go exactly the same way, so want to get two of everything....

Any thoughts much appreciated.

Cheers

Ciarán
techmanagain
I think the sying is "what goes around comes around". If so, I remember this happening when I did the same job on my CXs in 1999, 2001 and 2003 so it's nothing new! The best thing for the disc screw is one quick strike with an impact screwdriver - even when it's a bit mauled. Meantime put the disc back without one (if it's a rear) and don't apply the brakes too fiercely, or when you have an abnormal weight in the rear; the rear brakes will not come on. You can drive to the Dealer like that, no sweat. Grease the threads on the new through-bolts and you won't have the trouble again.
robertxmb
I am reasonably sure the bolt is the same on the xantia rear caliper. From memory the problem is mainly due to rusted thread where it protrudes from the caliper. Better to wire brush it and apply plenty of WD40 before attempting to unscrew it and once it starts work the bolt back and forth a little more each time with more WD40 to clear the rust from the thread
Secret of the grub screw is to ensure the tool bit is an exact fit assuming it has not been previously mangled. Alternatively use a cheap impact driver with suitable bit.

Robert
Ciaran
Hi John, Robert, cheers for the responses.

Oddly, the pad retaining bolt actually started turning without any problem at all, it was unscrewing quite nicely, then without warning, just snapped off at the rear end behind the caliper.

My own fault, I should have taken it easier with it, but hindsight is a wonderful thing.

As for the disc screw, the head of it was actually perfect (which makes me think the discs have never been changed before). I put the correct sized torx bit in it and made sure it was gripping well before attempting to turn, but it still mangled the head pretty much straight away. Guess I'll just have to clout a screwdriver into it / drill it as an absolute last resort.
I wonder if these are common with the C5 and the like, Citroen might have some on hand.... wishful thinking maybe? smile.gif

Cheers

Ciarán
robertxmb
The rear calliper is common to a number of XMs, xantias, worth checking your spare one if problems persist. With luck there might be enough of the bolt sticking out the back of the caliper to get a vice grips on to remove.

Robert

Ciaran
Ahaaa that's good to know, cheers Robert.

I must take a trip down to the other Robert's place and get the bolts off project shitbox (long story laugh.gif), just in case I can't get a spare.

Luckily, there's none of it remaining in the caliper, the whole lot came out when the end sheared off.

BTW, what would be the consequences of putting the disc on without the mounting screw, surely the wheel bolts would hold it onto the hub?

Will see how things go tomorrow anyway smile.gif

Cheers.

Ciarán
robertxmb
Yes the only purpose of the cap screw is to keep the disc in position when the wheel is off. I noticed on an old Ford Fiesta, that uses studs rather than bolts, the disc is retained by a thin washer!
Had a look on the citroen site and both parts are coming up as "temporarily unavailable" I find it hard to believe that local stealer is out of them, if you wish to try the part nos are:-

Retaining pin 5438690

Cap screw ZF13301111

Robert
Ciaran
Cheers very much Robert.

Would you believe, Hursts in Boucher have the lot! ohmy.gif

Have ordered 4 of each, not taking any chances next time....

Thanks for the part numbers, appreciate it smile.gif

Ciarán
Ciaran
Well, job finally done tonight there smile.gif

Actually, to be really fair it wasn't all that bad, the caliper retaining bolt actually came out easily enough on the passenger side, so have cleaned it up and will keep it as a spare.

Those wee grub screws turned into right bastards, and were bitter to the very end. Both sides ended up having to be drilled out. Interestingly, though the heads of them appear to be made from paper maché, the shafts are comprised of a substance harder than diamonds. I broke three drillbits before they finally surrendered.....

The new rear discs I got are very nice Brembo ones, and seem slightly wider than the existing ones (which seem to be the factory fit jobs).

I think thats the first time those rears have been done since the car was new, they're hardly used anyway. Interestingly the inboard pads had much more left on them than the outer ones, one was right down to metal on the driver's side (hence the rear disc looking like it had been resurfaced by a kango hammer).

Thanks for all the help smile.gif

Ciarán
xmexclusive
Hi All

There are two types of disk retaining screws available from Citroen. They are interchangable but take either a cross point screwdriver or else a Torx 30 bit. Avoid the cross point ones if you can. For mangled screws I use a little tiny cold chisel and drive the head round.

Regards

XMexc
Ciaran
Hi Xmexc,

Unfortunately the replacements I obtained were the cross head ones, but I've packed them with plenty of grease in the threads, so heres hoping removal won't be too traumatic next time. Mind you, how often do you need to replace rear discs.

The existing ones were the torx jobs and despite having the right sized bit and being very careful, they were having none of it. Same as the front ones when I did them 18 months ago, I should have known better! smile.gif

Ciarán
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