Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version Advice For A Newbie

Club XM Forum > XM General Issues
Pages: 1, 2
oilburner
Hi

there's a 2.1td vsx estate locally for £600, which has had the following replaced.

Clutch
cambelt
suspension spheres

Drives nice, suspension appears to go up and down ok, fairly clean, however it has the following faults.

Speedo doesn't work
Electric sunroof doesn't work
drips very slightly from diesel fuel pump.

How hard are the faults to fix???, I'm a total XM novice (currently running a ZX!), and will it cost much, was thinking about having it fixed and checked over by somewhere like Chevronics (will it cost me an arm and a leg, will do easy diy but nothing to complex)

And ultimately do you think its worth me buying?

Cheers Geoff
Ciaran
A decent S2 2.1TD is a total snip at £600, I'd buy it. You really will struggle to get a car with anywhere near the spec, character, and load lugging capacity for that kind of money.

Those faults you describe are very minor in the grand scheme of XMs. Even the diesel pump drip could be just a seal, which can be replaced, or at very worst, the pump rebuilt. All things that you can find help and advice on, on this forum.

The speedo could be a number of things, as could the sunroof, but the likely candidate is the switch.
If the rest of the car looks clean (and its had that recent work done), I'd say its well worth having.

We have some real estate fans here, like Peter N and XmExc, see what they think smile.gif

Ciarán
roddew
Hi Oilburner,
a little further thought on the 3 things you mention that need fixing.
The sunroof problem is a common one, it can wait until you have time as long as it's shut. There is (or should be) a manual crank handle for emergencies-see the handbook.
Speedo should be fairly straightforward to fix-I have a seriesII instrument panel if you need parts.
The most likely cause of the diesel leak if you have a Bosch VE pump will be the sealing ring between the body and the distributor head. I've had two go on me and by coincidence have just finished one this afternoon. With care it is possible to do in situ, saves a lot of work but access isn't easy. I paid £2 for the O ring and was quoted £300 ish for a pump rebuild. Scraped knuckes and about 6 hours don't amount to £298 to a pauper like me!!
If you do decide to go ahead you'll be in good company here and there is a wealth of expertise and experience to help you out. A warning though...XM's are addictive. See below.........

Let us all know how you get on and good luck, Rodders.
citroenxm
Speedo

As its a S2 car, it will have electronic speedo, with a sensor in place of the cable driver, It is know for the sender to fail...

Sunroof, could be either motor, or just as common, the cables that have rotted...

Fuel pump, well, not experianced that one myself...

Get it! It sounds a bargain, TD's in estates are rare!!

Rgds


C

Peter.N.
Hi Geoff

I have been running 2.1 estates for the last 12 years or so, and think they are the best thing since sliced bread (what was the best thing before sliced bread?) As citroenxm says they are getting rare now and the best model of the whole range in my opinion is the Mk2 2.1 manual estate, they are capable of 50+ to the gallon, quite a consideration now, and they have more space than any other estate car I know of, plus of course the superb hydropnumatic ride.

You have had some good advice re the problems. The speedo could be the sensor which is on the diff/gearbox housing just above the o/s drive shaft entry. I have had an intermittent speedo fault on the red one since I had it and am fairly convinced I have now cured it. The problem was the 4th wire from the right hand end of the red plug to the instrument panel, was making intermittent contact with the pin of the plug, I soldered it to the pin about three weeks ago and it has been going ever since - but try the sensor first.

The sun roof is a commom problem, only one of mine works, the usual trouble is that the cable has rusted and really needs replacing. I have not tackled that job myself but I think someone on here has.

Never had the leaking fuel pump problem so cant comment on that. The only real problem they get is failure of the head gasket, usually at around 150k, they area pig to change but if the rest of the car is OK well worth it, I did mine about 60k ago and its still going strong, I wouldn't expect any more trouble for at least another 100k.

They are an irreplacable car, unless its an absolubt shed, I would go for it - you may not find another one.

Peter.N.
citroenxm
Peter n,

50+ Mpg.. at what speed 45 mph ? tongue.gif laugh.gif


I was confidentaly informed that early S1 DERV's with Lucas or Bosch Mechanical injection and no stupid cats are good for 50, but later cars, as in S2's, also due to the extra weight, dont do as well..

Pardon me if I'm wrong, and I do appologise, too, does your car/cars all use mechanical, or have you an Epic system?

However, you do drive manuals, as apposed to auto DERV which majoritys are.. the manual will help the MPG..

Rgds
C
Peter.N.
Hi C

It all depends on how and where you drive. On any reasonably long journey I achieve 50+, that's driving within the speed limits, not thrashing it up hills, very rarely putting pedal to floor braking as little as necessary and keeping the revs well below 2000 (execpt on the motorway of course). On our trips to the north of Scotland, I fill up at Tesco's in Axminster and top up in Inverness Tesco's and the consumption for that part of the journey nearly always exceeds 50, sometimes 55. I did a trip to the lake district a couple of weeks ago, filled up there and again here on Saturday, mileometer was reading 804 and it took £83.00 worth, I havn't worked it out but you can and let me know if you like smile.gif

My average mpg is over 40, I don't think it has ever been under 40. I reckon that 1000 miles on a tankful is possible, (sponsers sought smile.gif )I regularly get over 800 without really trying. Not everyone wants to drive like me, but having done 30k per year for a lot of my working life, I am happy to take my time now.

Peter.N.

PS. Bosch mechanical pump, and yes manuals are much better on fuel as you have more control over the revs apart from the usual losses.
xmaholic
Hi all,I do regularly get 50+ mpg from my 2.1 TD estate (S2).If I try to stick to the speed limits that is! This is also done with a 35 stone passenger who does't fit in a smaller car! (even if he does put down the bag of chips)! The problem I have with fuel economy is the car rides so well and is so fast that "pushing on" happens a bit too easily....with obvious results but I dont think it gets below 40 mpg even then. I have done the cables in an XM sun roof. It can be messy with the grease, but wear disposable gloves when you get to that bit and you should keep the head lining clean.It is straight forward enough but you will need a hand because of the length of the estate head lining. I have been putting off doing mine on the car I have now. Beware the cables are £180 from Citroen so find some 2nd hand ones before you start! Best of luck. Mike.
beachcomber
Hi XM AHOLIC

I've had 5 sunroofs [ not all mine! ] done by Sunroof Conversions in Redditch - no connection, disclaimer etc.

Problems varied from graunched off teeth on the motor wheel [ take off and turn through 180 degrees ], seized cables, frayed cables and on one occasion the "end" pulled off the cable.

He has NEVER had to resort to OEM replacements - usually repairing the existing cables. The average cost [ last one in 2004 ] has been £120. That's trade, but he's very reasonable and I would expect maybe £150 retail.
That's for the complete job - AND no greasy marks on the headliner.

I always ask him to reseal the aerial at the same time.

In fact, I keep "forgetting" [ until it's been raining! ] that my current XM Esatae needs to go in for the treatment - I'll post what the cost is when done.

I've also got a tame electric window man.

BTW - re: mileages - I did see 49mpg once from my 2.1 TD, that was "tourist" mode bimbling along at 40 - 50 mph. Normal consumption driving normally [ but NOT Mobil economy run mode ] was low 40's.
I'd kill for that in my 2 ltr petrol turbo! - mid 30's. Mind you, my R80 Beemer does 60mpg ridden normally!

What a sign of the times that so much forum time is taken up with how to get the last 100yds from your gallon of fuel!!

Does anyone remember when labour came to power and Gordon the Moron stood up and declared that he would make petrol £5 a gallon within his rule - and most people laughed derisorily? Never mind though, the money raised will be spent on public transport [ yea right ] - that we can't / don't want to use.

Boris,Boris,Boris,Boris,Boris

Beachcomber
Peter.N.
Hi Beachcomber

I had a quote from a chap down here who reckoned he could do it from the top, without taking the headlining out. Is that feasable do you think?

Peter.N.
aengus-xmv6
Hi Peter

from memory, it might just be possible on the factory-fit roof, if you can get/make up a tool that can reach the heads of the screws you need to undo to be able to remove the plates. Then the cable can be pulled out and worked on (after taking the motor off). Only thing is you won't be able to get all the channel covers off so can't clean out the old rust and gunk properly.

Guess it depends what you find when you take the motor off, but when I did mine some years back onthe j-reg, I spent a while cleaning it all out and then re-sealing the plates to reduce water ingress etc and never had a problem with it after the repair.

he G-reg has a different sunroof type (retro-fit) and still works as it should - seem to be less problematic smile.gif

regards
Dave
beachcomber
Seems an aweful lot of frigging about when dropping the headliner is so simple????? Especially if you want to seal the aerial at the same time. By the time you've made up a special tool - you could have the headliner down and out of the way. rolleyes.gif

also - I don't think it would be possible to get at the motor wheel from the top IF that needs attention?

My Estate is going in for the roof to be done next month before I go off to Germany - as I said, I'll post costs etc. when it's been done.
Beachcomber
aengus-xmv6
why would you need to drop the headlining to seal the aerial?

Just remove the little visor above the mirror to reveal a hole where the base can be accessed, remove the metal cap and undo the nut and off it comes... apply sealant and re-fit.

regards
Dave
beachcomber
QUOTE (beachcomber @ May 19 2008, 13:52 PM)
Seems an aweful lot of frigging about when dropping the headliner is so simple????? Especially if you want to seal the aerial at the same time.

Hi Dave

Now go back and read my post carefully

....Especially if you WANT TO SEAL THE AERIAL AT THE SAME TIME

There, is that clear now?
beachcomber
minijet
Why, and how, do you seal the aerial? unsure.gif
Pages: 1, 2
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here .
Invision Power Board © 2001-2022 Invision Power Services, Inc.
Adapted by Shaun Harrison
Translated and modified by Fantome et David, Lafter