Problem solved!

I feel rather foolish actually because it was defective diodes in the electrovalves. I fitted the two diodes in the ECU as per Noz's self help file and after a bit of a hiccup, away it went.
I have gained some useful information during the excercise though, firstly how to depressurise the centre spheres and secondly, how to diagnose faulty diodes without getting your hands dirty.
What seems to happen is, or at least what happened in my case, was that the valves were opening briefly and then shutting again, so although I could hear them open and the usual 1000hz whine was present, they were in fact telling me lies and the way you can tell is just by listening.
Park the car somewhere quiet and after a few minutes open a door, if your electronics are working at all, you should hear a 'clunk' followed by the usual whine, shut the door and listen carefully until the valve shuts off, you should hear another 'clunk' and the whine stops. No clunk - the valve hasn't shut because it wasnt open - faulty diode/s. If you do hear the clunk and the suspension hasn't gone soft - centre sphere needs replacing.
If the suspension is working properly, you should have about twice or three times as much movement with the valves open as with them closed.
If you dont fancy taking the ECU apart or are not to good at soldering, one of our number advertises on ebay a box containing the two diodes that can simply be fitted externally.
Another problem solved - I wonder what the next one will be. "You never get bored with an XM"
Peter.N.