I don't yet know what the ride of my XM will be like, but at 120k, it's safe to assume the suspension's going to want some love over the next 12 months. Since I'm not buying it to have a car that rides like all other cars, I'm going to be keen to give it that love. It seems logical to me that you'd hydraflush it (for several thousand miles, by the sound of things), and THEN renew the spheres. Am I right? (I realise that a sudden failure of a sphere would throw the whole plan for a loop)

Hi Sam

If the spheres have never been changed, it will transform it. Then 'soft ride' is primaraly the the work of the centre spheres ( assuming yours is Hydractive, 'sport-normal' switch on centre console). I would flush the system before you fit the spheres, although they dont hold very much fluid at rest if they are working, so I suppose its not that important. Assuming it doesn't have anti sink, and I havn't met one that does yet, it will have six suspension spheres (if hydractive) + the accumulator sphere.

GSF are as cheap as anyone and there are some good sphere removing tools on Ebay for not to much money.

Peter.N.

Aren't all UK car Hydractive? I'm not sure.

Steve.

I don't know Steve, I thought they were but I have heard mention of non hydractive, but I have never seen one. They also made a non turbo, which I think was a 2.2, but I have never seen one in this country.

I have just looked in Mr Haynes book and that does seem to suggest that they were all hydractive, but I thought I had seen reference to 'non active spheres' maybe an error.

Peter.N.

Hi Bob

The ebay sphere tools that I have seen recently are a fixed steel band with a single bolt that tightens onto the sphere. This works if you can get the bolt tight enough but will often slide around removing paint or rust from the sphere. One sort is for undoing the Accumulator sphere from above. The other type is for levering from the side. To get at all the cars spheres easily you need one of each. I tried one of the lever ones but have gone back to using a Pliades lever that clamps the steel band tight around the sphere. A lot more expensive but a quality tool.

Regards

XMexc

bear in mind that if you have mod'd spheres with a top-up valve fitted, that the remover that fits over the top like a hat with the square drive on the top will not fit the sphere - as the valve will be in the way (like the accum that's currently on my v6).

rgds
Dave

Oh well there you are then, shows how much I know I use a home made chain wrench made from a section of double motorcycle chain, but thought the ebay ones a good idea.

Peter.N.

Non turbo's very rarely are more economical. For a given throttle opening/power output the turbo is running on a weaker mixture and the final drive ratio is usually lower so the engine is turning more slowly for a given speed.

Isn't it strange how everything is metric except the wheel diameter, which is still in inches, even in French!

Peter.N.

I don't know whether they are or not - won't see the car til Thursday. I'm just wondering whether it matters. Sounds like doing both at once is the ticket though - don't want to knacker my strut tops.

I think you're looking around £30-40 and it's rarely if ever beaten by a stubborn sphere.
I don't rate those single point of contact one's seen on ebay. By all means buy a proper
one on ebay - they do pop up now and then.

Andrew