I dunno Brian, same symptoms as Jim on my V6 after the indy replaced the steering rack & fdv. Was not squealing before, but during their works, pump was locking up after the FDV was replaced with a spare from me.

So they replaced that with one from stock, and allegedly all working ok, but the pump squealed a lot after. Admittidley, the belt was old, and was now shot after sliping a lot.

Replaced belt - fine for a couple weeks or so, but still the odd squeal as Jim has, then it snapped. Another belt, same again - 4 weeks or so and it parted. Replaced at roadside, lasted approx 8 miles, next one a mile..... Replaced the rack during this period too (as they'd bodged the fitting of it!).

Replaced pump, fdv and regulator - no more squeals and all seems well (apart from a few lhm seeps at the unions on the fdv/reg, but will sort those when it's a bit warmer, esp as I'm off with flu right now.

Car rises in <10secs now, and stays up longer than it used to.

Jim - how sure are you that the pump is ok? Mine seems to have sufferred badly after the garage worked on the car as it was getting very hot in use and seemed to have seized when I finally gave up and had the car recovered home.

regards
Dave

Pump was good when I removed it some years ago. It came off my K reg estate that suffered the XM suicidal auto gearbox syndrome. It has however sat in the shed for about 5 years. I only changed it when it became one of the suggestions for the power steering loss. What puzzles me is that pump made no noise until I changed the FDV. I have also noticed that there is no click from the system, there is a hiss and of course this screaming from the pump.

On the slack belt issue it was the first thing I checked when it screamed but no the belt is spinning around fine. It's an absolute headache. As I have said I no longer use it for anything other than taking the dogs out but if I come back from the walk and find somebody has parked near to me it takes near superhuman force to get out of the space.
Jim

Hi Jim

when I had a chat with Martin at Pleiades a few weeks back re my problems on the V6, suggestion was the regulator not clicking was the spindle valve in the regulator was damaged when the system over-pressurised, likely down to error fitting up the FDV.

Replacing the FDV does not resolve this, and the damaged valve would leave the hydraulics running over-pressure, so more load on the pump, no clicks, quick rise time, periodic squeals..... on my V6, found that the pump body was very hot after a run, and of course, eventually it likely had enough and went through 3 belts in one abortive 25 mile journey.

Maybe worth trying another regulator if you have access to one....

Belt needs to be *very* tight either way so it doesn't slip, but are you *sure* it isn't slipping a little when you get a squeal?

regards
Dave

So many things have been changed on this car that it is time to back-track and look at first principles again, surely.
1. Is the LHM level correct? i.e. with the orange cap between the marks with the vehicle height to "HIGH" and actually settled in high position physically?
2.Is the pump free-running (relatively) when no belt is fitted? TYhere will be regular tightness as each internal piston pressures-up but this is normal.
3.Is the idler pulley running freely,quietly and smoothly with no belt fitted?
4. Is the FDV correctly fitted in relation to all the pipes? (I am fairly sure this has been checked to exhaustion already!)
5 Has the pressure regulator had a reliable unit substiituted after the reliable FDV was fitted?
6. Is the drive belt tight enough?
7. (In desperation !) Is the alternator free-running without the belt fitted, or is that where the squeal is coming from?

I would comment on the report that the squeal is experienced at start-up and before the vehicle rises. If it rises only when the squeal stops, then the pump is not supplying any or all the LHM needed until the belt grips (unless the squeal is coming from the alternator, which may require up to 1/2 horsepower to drive it when the battery is well-discharged).
If it is not supplying enough LHM, is it because there is air in the system before the pump; the FDV is faulty; or is the pressure relief valve faulty; or is there other air in the system?
Theoretically, barring a blockage in the sytem before or after the pressure regulator, the hydraulic system is sound up to this point.
I would point out that to ensure a correctly bled system, the pump should be topped up at its inlet, before connecting the pipe from the reservoir. The engine should then be run with the height lever at "LOW", and with the p.r. valve released for 30 secs or so, then closed, then reopened again, then run again, then re-closed, after which it may take a minute or so for the system to raise the car with the lever set to "MAX" height.

Braved the elements and changed the pump AND the pressure regulator. Pump is no longer screaming but still no power steering at low speed.

Jim

Hi Jim, just catching up with your steering woes.No doubt the symptoms relate to 4 possible areas.1-FDV,but you've been there.
2-PRESS/REG,you've done that!
3-STEERING PINNION worn allowing high pressure fluid return to reservoir due excessive internal leakage,as evidenced by you when refitting the cap.Also likely higher than normal braking pressures are felt in conjunction with slower than usual suspension rise- especially the rear.
4-BLOCKED STEERING PINNION return lines-eliminated by 3 above.
Be a shame to see another heading for recycling.Good luck

I could not agree more. They are rare, estates even more so, so Can pinion valve be changed without removing the rack?

jim

Jim,

isn't there an adjust screw on the FDV to increase the pressure to the steering? may be worth a try to see if it helps.

re pinion, expect it can be if there's enough space to work in the area - looked possible on the V6 (pity as that's all Cit Centre really needed to do on mine, but instead swapped rack & ruined it).

Believe for the pinion:
disconnect link to steering column
disconnect pipes (depressurise first!)
undo 2 bolts (allen)
remove pinion

to replace though, you'll have to undo the big nut on the other side of the rack & remove the damper in order to get the new pinion to go in.

maybe worth considering dismantling the rack & re-grease and replacing the gaitors while the pinion is out....

can't swear how possible this all is as I didn't try it since I had to remove the rack & replace the whole unit - since they cracked the mounting lug when the garage did it first time.

regards
Dave

Hi Jim.Never changed one but no doubt it will be a sod.

Hello Robert, I am just hoping it is a bit easier than removing the rack, I did that so many times when I first bought this. Advertised as 2 owners needing new rack I went to Wigan to buy it. First owner had cherished it. On his death it fell into the hands of a philistine. My auto one had expired so we swapped the rack to this one. Fine until I used it and parked, big puddle. In all we took the rack out about 5 times. On the last occasion after it once again leaked I'd had enough, it could go. Calming down a while later I opened the bonnet and gazed in. The rubber sleeve on the rack was bulging and wondering why I followed the rubber pipe coming from it up to the reservoir and pulled the pipe off, nothing was coming out so I poked it with a match and got a face full of LHM. The pipe was blocked and that is all I could have screamed!!!