there has been much discussion about the merit of hydraflush on the system and its limitations. Can someone advise which components can only really be made good by removal and overhaul? eg the height correctors, anything else
Have people experienced notable improvement to the whole system operation by doing this work, or just probable longer life?
Full Version Refurb During Hydraflush Overhaul
Brake doseur valve, I'd say. If it's too leaky (and it usually is the no.1 suspect on aged Cits), only new seals can make it better, flushing won't do anything towards that.
E-valves: no need for refurb unless u know one is leaking from a seal -u *will* know it-. If it leaks because of material failure -known and aknowledged from Cit on HII systems- then it's "throw away-put new one, £105 please, thanks". Just visually check if it leaks on its return, under car.
Height correctors: if a seal has failed it will leak alot and again u'll rather know it. If the piston is sticky (dirty), hydraflush will improve things, unless your car has had an extremely dirty life then better open up and clean! If the piston is scratched, then what they do usually is polish it slightly with an abrasive paper and put it back in hope. But again it will be scratched only in extreme cases where LHM was not taken care of at all.
Struts: it seems that possibly hydraflushing has unstuck mine, but I'm not sure. If the Teflon seals are worn then hydraflush will not reduce any leakage. However front XM struts are not refurbishable it seems. Rear ones are, same as any other Cit -very easy to refurb even yourself without any special tool, just get seals from Cit (however there's no part no. on the parts catalogue I have, but perhaps at the computer they can find a kit, they certainly do it for CXs etc)-.
Flow distribution valve: better open up and fully clean and refurb -it will usually be out of tune and waisting your pressure for nothing, hydraflush won't fix that-. Also it has a couple (or 4?) of tiny filters that could be clogged up. Its pistons don't have any problem usually.
Actually, not related to flushing, one component u need to take care of is the pressure regulator. U need to measure its output, it has to be giving 145/170 bars (cut-in/cut-out pressures). U will have all sorts of problems if this is below that value, even if your ystem is super clean (slow rise, possibly hard suspension -hydractive valve not opening-, intermittent steering assistance, etc). The way to tune it is by adding shims in it (there are already some in place by the factory), each 0.1mm adds 1 bar of pressure approximately. Now, I know that chances are u don't have the gauge kit to measure that...
cheers
George
E-valves: no need for refurb unless u know one is leaking from a seal -u *will* know it-. If it leaks because of material failure -known and aknowledged from Cit on HII systems- then it's "throw away-put new one, £105 please, thanks". Just visually check if it leaks on its return, under car.
Height correctors: if a seal has failed it will leak alot and again u'll rather know it. If the piston is sticky (dirty), hydraflush will improve things, unless your car has had an extremely dirty life then better open up and clean! If the piston is scratched, then what they do usually is polish it slightly with an abrasive paper and put it back in hope. But again it will be scratched only in extreme cases where LHM was not taken care of at all.
Struts: it seems that possibly hydraflushing has unstuck mine, but I'm not sure. If the Teflon seals are worn then hydraflush will not reduce any leakage. However front XM struts are not refurbishable it seems. Rear ones are, same as any other Cit -very easy to refurb even yourself without any special tool, just get seals from Cit (however there's no part no. on the parts catalogue I have, but perhaps at the computer they can find a kit, they certainly do it for CXs etc)-.
Flow distribution valve: better open up and fully clean and refurb -it will usually be out of tune and waisting your pressure for nothing, hydraflush won't fix that-. Also it has a couple (or 4?) of tiny filters that could be clogged up. Its pistons don't have any problem usually.
Actually, not related to flushing, one component u need to take care of is the pressure regulator. U need to measure its output, it has to be giving 145/170 bars (cut-in/cut-out pressures). U will have all sorts of problems if this is below that value, even if your ystem is super clean (slow rise, possibly hard suspension -hydractive valve not opening-, intermittent steering assistance, etc). The way to tune it is by adding shims in it (there are already some in place by the factory), each 0.1mm adds 1 bar of pressure approximately. Now, I know that chances are u don't have the gauge kit to measure that...
cheers
George
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