bitontheside
July 12, 2007 07:38 pm
I want to change the brake pads shortly - my first time on an XM. Is there anything I should be aware of before I dive in? Thanks in advance!
dean
July 13, 2007 05:06 pm
Hi Bitontheside
The rears are fairly self explanatory when you see them, the fronts will require a piston wind back tool/ large screwdriver, There should be a small nib on the back of the inner front pads which must line up with the cut outs in the piston and i think from memory the handbrake cable must be disconnected from the caliper, But don't let it fall slack, otherwise the cable will drop off the mechanism in the transmission tunnel above the exhaust and is a bit fiddly to put back on if you don't have a good set of ramps, i think that's all, good luck!
onthecut
July 13, 2007 07:45 pm
Hi Bitontheside.
As Dean says, try and keep the brake cable taut once you've got it out of the operating arm; it's an aggravation to have to start grovelling under the tunnel if it jumps out there. It's not a bad time to check the condition of the brake cables; they are very prone to cracking up roughly where they come into the arch, or being seized if it's an auto. When you've reassembled the pads etc., try the handbrake. If the cables have jumped out, the pedal will go right down. I would also suggest that if it's still fitted, you ditch the clip fitted with the caliper pin, that's supposed to hold the warning lamp wire to the outer pad. It tends to bind up the caliper, giving lop sided pad wear.
You can buy a proprietary tool to wind the pistons back in; if they are hard work, it can help if you open the bleed nipple while retracting them. At the rear, the aperture cover is held in with a long, thin bolt, washers and nuts as I recall. Good idea to have a look at the thread in advance and give it a soaking with releasing fluid if it's rusty. Easily snapped or rounded, otherwise.
Mike.
robertxmb
July 13, 2007 11:34 pm
It is a right pain when replacing or working on the parking brake on your own and the cable ends spring from their swivel arm seatings in the tunnel. Its not easy to keep the tension on the cable to prevent this. I solved the problem by twisting a loop of wire loosely around the cables near the swivel arm to keep them from moving apart. If the cables slip back the cables remain in their slots and the ends re-engage when the slack is taken up again. Worked well so far and saves a great deal of hassle. I left the wire in place for future use when cable release at wheel end called for.
B.
bitontheside
July 14, 2007 09:01 am
Many thanks for the replies - I feel another headache coming on!
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