Full Version Diesel Pump
Hi there I own an xm 2.1td and on start up there is a squeal like a dry bearing. I think it's coming from the diesel pump, it goes after a few minutes and has not got any worse in the year i've had the car, anyone had anything similar? any cause for concern? cheers
Hi Magic,
Welcome to club-xm. Glad to see you got your signature sorted from the outset. Well done.
From your description of the symptoms I would suggest that it sounds like the bearing on the timing belt tensioner. Use the search function at the top right of the screen to find other posts on the subject. It's reasonably common.
Hope that helps. Please let us know how you get on.
Cheers
noz
Welcome to club-xm. Glad to see you got your signature sorted from the outset. Well done.
From your description of the symptoms I would suggest that it sounds like the bearing on the timing belt tensioner. Use the search function at the top right of the screen to find other posts on the subject. It's reasonably common.
Hope that helps. Please let us know how you get on.
Cheers
noz
Hi Magic Carpet.
The good news is it almost certainly won't be the diesel pump. They are generally a well made bit of kit --- they have to be ---- and if it had got to the point of squealing, you wouldn't be running at all.
Mike.
The good news is it almost certainly won't be the diesel pump. They are generally a well made bit of kit --- they have to be ---- and if it had got to the point of squealing, you wouldn't be running at all.
Mike.
The cambelt tensioner? Alarm bells are ringing, as I own an alfa and tensioner failure has junked many a twin spark engine. The belt was changed when I got the car, how big a job is it too change the tensioner? I'd rather change it than risk it.
cheers
cheers
Relatively painless. Should take less than an hour. Never done a 2.1 so my comments are for a 2.5. Should be much the same though. PeterN is your best bet for the 2.1.
cheers
noz
cheers
noz
Hi Magic Carpet
Hate to disagree with Noz, but I think an hour for the cambelt tensioner on a 2.1 is going some. If you've not done one before, you will find it quite a fair job and I'd allow the better part of a day. The limited access is one of the biggest issues. I think it's one area where you will find the Haynes reasonably helpful. For what they cost, don't forget to put a new belt on while you're in there and also have a good look at the water pump. Again, for what they cost, false economy to leave a high miler one in place while you're looking at it.
Mike.
Hate to disagree with Noz, but I think an hour for the cambelt tensioner on a 2.1 is going some. If you've not done one before, you will find it quite a fair job and I'd allow the better part of a day. The limited access is one of the biggest issues. I think it's one area where you will find the Haynes reasonably helpful. For what they cost, don't forget to put a new belt on while you're in there and also have a good look at the water pump. Again, for what they cost, false economy to leave a high miler one in place while you're looking at it.
Mike.
Sorry if I misled you. I made a presumption about the 2.1 based on my experience of the 2.5. Looks like it was dud. You can't win 'em all 
cheers
noz
cheers
noz
It's not the belt drive to the LHM pump slipping then? No one has mentioned it yet.
Alternator...........
I have never had to replace an idler or tensioner in over 10 years of 2.1 td ownership, not that I am saying they dont go, probably I've just been lucky. The time equates to a cambelt job, my first ever took about six hours, but I can usually do them somewhat quicker now, two or three if everything comes off OK.
As Mike says, the Haynes manual is pretty good, the only thing it doesn't tell you about is the allen screw through a hole in the top engine mounting bracket, which you need to slacken to release the tensioner.
The crankshaft pulley bolt is very tight, you will need a socket and long bar to undo it. You will also need a jack under the engine to raise and lower it to get to the top and bottom components.
Having re read your post I think the most likely problem is the alternator belt slipping, as Les says, 'simply' re tension it.
Peter.N.
As Mike says, the Haynes manual is pretty good, the only thing it doesn't tell you about is the allen screw through a hole in the top engine mounting bracket, which you need to slacken to release the tensioner.
The crankshaft pulley bolt is very tight, you will need a socket and long bar to undo it. You will also need a jack under the engine to raise and lower it to get to the top and bottom components.
Having re read your post I think the most likely problem is the alternator belt slipping, as Les says, 'simply' re tension it.
Peter.N.
Hi magic carpet,
Hope not to late with reply.My mk2 2.1 developed a squeak and after straining to locate it auraly removed the auxillary belt and pump belt which the confirmed the rear bearing of the alternator.
Hope not to late with reply.My mk2 2.1 developed a squeak and after straining to locate it auraly removed the auxillary belt and pump belt which the confirmed the rear bearing of the alternator.
Hi all.
Peter has just brought to mind a little trick if you can't shift the crank pulley bolt. Whichever way you're trying, make sure you have a good quality, proper fit socket. If you can't get it to budge, the knack is to use the socket and an appropriate (as short as you can get away with) extension and then rotate the crank in the normal direction until your T bar handle is wedged either on the solid part of the subframe, or, if you have an extension pipe, on the ground. Ensure the engine can't fire up (solenoid cable off if diesel, or don't enter the code if diesel 'electronic') (Coil wire off or no code if petrol) .
Then, just flick the ignition switch to momentarily rotate the engine. Providing you had the spanner handle well wedged, the bolt will now be loose. As a double check you've got it right, the wedged handle will be somewhere between quarter past and twenty five past, looking in from the driver's arch. Outside of this, you're not in the right spot,
Mike.
Peter has just brought to mind a little trick if you can't shift the crank pulley bolt. Whichever way you're trying, make sure you have a good quality, proper fit socket. If you can't get it to budge, the knack is to use the socket and an appropriate (as short as you can get away with) extension and then rotate the crank in the normal direction until your T bar handle is wedged either on the solid part of the subframe, or, if you have an extension pipe, on the ground. Ensure the engine can't fire up (solenoid cable off if diesel, or don't enter the code if diesel 'electronic') (Coil wire off or no code if petrol) .
Then, just flick the ignition switch to momentarily rotate the engine. Providing you had the spanner handle well wedged, the bolt will now be loose. As a double check you've got it right, the wedged handle will be somewhere between quarter past and twenty five past, looking in from the driver's arch. Outside of this, you're not in the right spot,
Mike.
I was going to suggest that but thought that the 'purists' might not like it. 
Peter.N.
Peter.N.
I didn't think we had any 'purists' in this bunch of rebels !
noz
noz
Once you've done that how do you turn the engine back to TDC to fit the locking pins before you remove the belt. Or do you lot just keep your fingers crossed. Me - I used sufficient extension bars to reach through the wheel arch and rest on an axle stand outwith the car. Then you can put your largest wrench or a T-bar with an extending tube over the handle to undo the bolt with the help of your weight. It is very tight though. These days having a compressor I think I would be trying the air impact driver option.
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