Now I don't have to buy petrol any more I can start sorting out the other niggles on my car.

Main one that worrys me is the fact the rear end drops within 5 mins or so, and on any setting seems to have nearly no movement, so I assume the rear spheres are flat, but would this make the back drop so fast? (Mk1 no anti sink) or is this a faulty brake valve?

The front has about 3 inches of movement, and I don't get any buzzing doors open or not.

The pump clicks once every 20 seconds at rest


Stewart

5 mins is totally abnormal, you could have a leaking electrovalve or the brake doseur as u say, or, less likely, a suspension cylinder badly leaking or, even less likely, the rear height corrector. You leak should be "that" big that it would be easy to find out which piece leaks. Flat rear spheres wouldn't make it sink in 5mins. Can u listen any noise from the rear after switching off? A memebr here had a badly leaking electovalve which he could listen pssssing after stopping.

Does ur car have 1 or 2 electrovalves? (Is it a signle-branch steering wheel or two-spoke?)

The rear electrovalve can be checked from under the car at the point infront of the left hand rear wheel: there's a plastic 4-way union where the 2 cylinder returns and the evalve arrive and from there go to the LHM tank. If difficult to access under car, check the LHM tank returns. Rear cylinder returns can be easily checked on site with wheels off, unless u can do it under-car.

I hope these will get you going.

regards
George

It has only the one electro valve which I don't think is working and this area is very wet. However the system does not seem to loose any fluid. I have a spare brake valve so is it worth swapping it over?

Stewart

Swapped brake valves... yet to drive car, but defeinaly does not drop at the back anyything like as fast, there have ben anumber of other changes in the cars behaviour..

about 55 seconds between accumulator clicks up from 12

Rear end of the car rises alost immediatly on start up, front raises to hieght shortly after (both start going up at the same time). Previoulsy you had to wait and it was the front that went up first

Given this is it asfe to assuem the new brake valve is as it should be?

Not actually watched it long enough to notice a drop, but its at 40 mins now and not visibly dropped at all, wonder if the ride will improve now!

Stewart

Good job, wait a few days though as any air in the system is being bled. Have u bled the brakes? Keep us updated in any case re. ride and clicking time.

Can I ask: did u ever noticed if u could listen a "fffss" noise when depressing/releasing the brake pedal? Mine does this but u have to do it on a traffic light, u wouldn't listen it otherwise.

regards
George

You can check the electro valves by bouncing the suspension without and then with a door open, there should be substantially more movement with the door open. this wont work at the rear if your spheres are flat. This isn't fool proof as flat centre spheres will give no additional movement, but its an easy way to start.

Peter.N.

Forgot one of the other developments and no idea why.. the rear suspesion now moves on a bounce test (It did not before) but only about 1", but no differance at all with doors open or closed. Also looking for Burgendy Mk1 front pass wing and nose cone (currntly has burgendy Mk2 items!) thanks to a 1' high bit of iron post and a reversing incident (Only scrap XM I could find was a Burgendy Mk2 in challow) It has also made some Bzzzt nosies but not related to the doors and they were quiet noticable! Is there a way of tapping directly to the soloniod with 6V (IIRC that is right) just to test the valve itself? (Mk1 car) as the haynes book of lies seems vague at best on wiring


Stewart

1" is not good, in the normal state and in "soft" it should move pretty easily at the rear, about 10-15cms down. To make sure your electronics/electrics are OK, measure the current on the source, the suspension ECU with a cheap voltmeter. I 've described the process elsewhere, far easier than getting voltage to the electrovalve, which is under the car, and it will tell you much more as to what is going on.

How's the regulator clicking timing now?

G

Regulator timing is still around the 50 second mark, It did somthing weird today, I moved the car stoped it (it was at normal height) went inside to get somthing, and as I opened the door the back end dropped sudenly (no buzzing noise) and as I watched the rear started to very slowly go back up (did not wait to see how far it went back up) the engine was not running.

Stewart

You would seem to have a sticky height control valve and a very good accumulator sphere!