Hello, im run a 1994 xm estate. 2.0 si turbo with a auto box. A couple of weeks ago whilst coming home i had a sudden drop in power. On checking under the bonnet when i got back, a loud rubbing noise coming from the timing belt cover. On removing this the cambelt tensioner popped off. After checking my haynes manual for 'how to replace the cambelt' It kept going on about aligning holes and inserting dowls in the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley to lock them into place. However i cannot see any holes to lock off the crankshaft.

Does anybody know how to refit the and tension the cambelt without me getting the timing wrong and wrecking my engine.
Many thanks
coryman

Hi Coryman,

Welcome to club-xm. I hope you find it friendly and helpful. I can guarantee that some one on here will be able to help you out of your predicament. Please be patient.

I myself have only 2.5TD's so I don't know the 2.0 engine very well. Certainly on the 2.5 there is a 'fork' cast into the cam pulley (sprocket). When it is correctly aligned you can push an 8mm drill shank through the gap in the fork and into a recess in the side of the cylinder head. When the fork and the hole line up then you know the timing is set correctly.

If you are having trouble finding holes in the cam sprocket and cylinder head to line up then its possible the camshaft is too far out of alignment. This can happen if the cam is rotated indiscriminantly whilst the pistons are only half way up the barrels. In this condition the cam is free to rotate through 360 Deg. If the pistons are then brought up to TDC the cam may be caught out of position. To rectify this, turn the crank until the pistons are all at the same height, attempt to align the cam with the corerct timing holes and when successful rotate the crank so that the correct piston is at TDC (or until the hole in the flywheel lines up with the hole on the bellhousing). The cam and crank will now be properly aligned.

Someone who owns a Series 1 2.0 should be along shortly to offer some more detailed advice.

Until then please keep us up to date with your findings.

cheers

noz

ps
Why not add your vehicle detials to your signature? That way, when you ask further questions, we know to which model you refer. Just click on 'My Controls' at the top right of this screen, click on 'Edit My Signature' at the bottom left of the next and finally fill in the details in the white box in the middle of the next screen. See my signature below for an example.

In any Citroen engine of recent date (Last 20 years at least), the no. 1 piston (at the gearbox end) is at TDC compression stroke when both valve rockers are level with each other. If they are not, you are almost certainly 180 degrees out, so turn the crankshaft over again.
If - as in your case - the camshaft is not turning, expect the crankshaft pulley keyway to be vertical.
Then you will have to turn the camshaft to get the valves in the TDC compression position, as above.
That will give you a starting position to find the gear-locking locations, and you can start from there to be more precise.

Hi, from memory I think the turbo version of the 20lt engine cam be a right pain.
I think that the timing pin for the crank pulley doesn`t match up to the camshaft.
I normally line up the cam pulley pin, 10mm hole aprox 8`clock, and then mark the belt at the cam and crank making sure the belt is tight along non tensionned side. Mark the new belt up the same as old and refit turning tensinner anti-clockwise against the belt.
Once the belt has been refitted, refit crank pulley and turn engine over by hand before turning the key.
As long as timing was right before this does work.
I think Citroen have a special tool which clamps to the bottom pulley.