Has anyone had any problems with 2.1 TD clutch cable?
The problem is to do with where the cable enters the bulkhead I think.
I was travelling home one night from Notts to Derby, when the clutch "compression" of the plate got less and less (if that makes sense). To the point where you depressed the clutch pedal and I could not engage gear. Your foot was to the floor and it was just crunching.
I've had the cable off and out eventually. The pivot end where it enters the housing through the bulkhead was in quite a mess, it looks as though its had a hammer and chisel on it.
The clutch is fine, it's only done 20k.
I had a spare second hand one from which I swapped the pivot mechanism as it seemed in much better condition, the cable itself was too long - it must have been off a petrol model I guess.
I put it back together again and it worked for a few depressions of the pedal, then went lower and lower till it could no longer engage gear and started crunching again.
This has got me totally baffled and I'm loathe to scarap it for a simple item as a clutch cable.
And they are a ******* to hook back on. I found it slightly easier by putting the car in the fully raised position before lying on my back across the doorsill!
Oh and by the way, I rang round for a replacement cable - Euro Car Parts, CES and GSF, they all said it's a Manufacturers Part only.
Rang up the main dealer Bristol St Motors £93.43 +VAT!!! for a cable, even the bloke in the stores couldn't believe it.

I'm not so sure that putting a new cable on will cure it.
Has anyone got a diagram or can explain how the mechanism is supposee to sit in the housing in the bulkhead?

Shoestring

Hi Shoestring

It seems strange that the same thing has happened again. The usual problem is that the auto adjuster in the cable ceases to function, very often due to having been forced when the cable was fitted. You need to fashion a tool with a hook on the end out of a wire coat hanger, to pull the spring back when you are connecting the cable to the clutch lever, but you have quite likely already discovered this. Yes, they are a pig to connect to the pedal! I had to take the driving seat out and lay on the floor with my feet up on the back seat!

Peter.N.

Hi both.

At the risk of sounding a contrary note, I think you've both missed the point. I'm sure when I did one on my last 2.1 XM, it appeared as though there was a guide built in, so that as you offered the cable in through the bulkhead, the inner part was guided straight on to the pedal ??? The main difficulty I had was easing off the auto bit to give enough length to engage the release arm. The other difficulty I had was finding a dealership with stock of the cable !

Mike.

Hi All,
I don't think I have explained my problem very clearly. It really is difficult to explain, but I'll try again.
The cable is back on. It will depress the clutch initially right to the floor (you can feel the spring plate pressure).
A few more presses of the pedal and the spring plate pressure becomes less and less until it goes all the way down to the floor but has no clutch plate pressure.
Is the auto adjuster in the bulkhead and if so is it repairable/replaceable.
It's beginning to sound like the auto adjuster is "loosing grip" of the cable. Would I be right in saying this?

Shoestring

I don't know how the auto adjuster works, but it sounds like yours is working in exactly the reverse order.

Have you looked at the clutch pedal mounting? I have heard of Peugeot ones failing.
When pressing the pedal it is actually the pedal box flexing hence less clutch. I don't know if this applies to Cits or not.

Hi XM

As far as I recall, the auto adjuster is an integral part of the cable, self gripping in one direction, so if your cable keeps lengthening, then this section must be giving out. (Unless the mounting is failing as other members have suggested). I know that the one time I had to change mine, I had to break open the old one to work out how to slacken the new one; sadly I've now forgotten how to do it !

Mike.

I've not had the dashboard out to look at the top of pedal mechanism yet.
If anyone knows how to adjust/release the auto adjuster if it is located in the cable, I would be greatful.
I've done quite alot of the more difficult jobs that can occur with XM's but this has me beat up to now.
So, if you're saying the auto adjuster is in the cable, would a new one solve it would you think?

XM on a Shoestring

Hi XM.

It is definitely in the cable --- the relevant bit of the cable is behind the manifolds. I think it's easiest if you remove the upper part of the induction manifold. I certainly wouldn't start taking the dash apart to check the pedal bracket-- take off the thin piece of trim above the pedal area, then a head first upside down dive into the footwell with a good torch and maybe a mirror.

Mike.

Hi xm-on--

I have a SORN 2.0 TCT that is just drivable as I managed the 70 miles to bring it home. Clutch works over the last 10mm of travel. The previous owner said that a new clutch cable had been fitted by his local garage because of similar problems with the old one but the new one started to play up almost immediately. I think the old cable is in the boot so I will have a look for it and see if it has an auto adjuster. These problems came just after the garage had done the cylinder head on this car.
I only got the car for spares but it is still complete and runs. Sounds as if it might be worth seeing if I can sort out the clutch cable particularly if I can find the spare cable to examine.

You should be able to examine the clutch pedal with a torch and your head in the drivers footwell. The frame and leverage for the foot pedals is a massive affair way beyond what is structually necessary so I will be surprised if the problem is flexing of components.

Regards

XMexc

Hi
I think the problem is with the auto adjuster, but i'd need to try it with another cable to see if that's the case.
So, if anyone has a fully working 2.1td cable for a L 1994 hatchback going begging please let me know ... and how much

shoestring

To release the adjuster you have to pull back the spring around the cable from the end nearest the pedal, in other words compress it. As you cant get at it when the cable is in situ, it is quite easy to do if you straighten a metal coat hanger and bend one end into a hook and the other into a handle, you can then slide it along the back of the engine and engage it with a coil of the spring. If your 'compressing tool' is long enough, you should be able to pull on it to release the ratchet while pulling the inner cable out to engage wit the clutch lever.

When I changed my clutch I think I upset the auto adjuster, I had too much cabel and could not get any gears, in the end I used lots of washers as spacers at the end to take up the slack, do you think its a problem I can 'reset' or should I just get another cable at some point?