I've had some rattles and clunks from the front suspension. I've just put two new ARB links on - that improved matters. I can now hear what I think are the lower ball joints rattling over bumps - so I have a pair of new ones to go on -once I'm able to borrow a air impact wrench to undo them.

However, I did something today that caused an almighty great clunk from the OS front strut - all it took was rolling back in reverse slowly and then driving forwards - CLUNK!. It sounded and felt like it came from the top of the strut area.

Should I be worried?

You surely should be worried - if you have not been bold enough to lift the bonnet and have a good look at the top suspension unit each side. Please report back and get help straightaway if needed.

I had a rattle like that, changed the drop link, still there, eventually found it was the track rod end on the other side!

Peter.N,

<Both strut tops look the same & normal to me - what am I looking for? >

What would we do but for the collected knowledge of the XM-Club members?

I feel that he might be right.

<Both strut tops look the same & normal to me - what am I looking for? >

What would we do but for the collected knowledge of the XM-Club members?

I feel that he might be right.

Thanks for the replies.

For the sake of a few quid extra I'll replace the track rod ends as well then - just to rule that out. Any tips or gotcha's?, apart from marking the thread to save having to get the tracking redone afterwards.

I'll let you know if I find anything else once I get it up on the ramps.

I've had a good look at the strut top this afternoon - it looks to me as if there has to be an allowance for a very small amount of movement of the suspension strut dome as it bears upon the strut top mount? is this perhaps why the haynes manual tells you to apply a smear of LHM between both on reassembly? That could be the reason for the clunk - it may need some lube under there?

The XM is too touchy about the correct tracking. You will really have to get it Laser-Tracked as soon as you can. The method you suggest won't do for anything since Ford Cortinas and their ilk. You'll save the cost in longer tyre wear in only a few thousand miles.

I can recommend the Gunsons "trackrite", cheap and quite easy to use - sorts out my XMs, my wifes ford puma and our triumph tr7. Nice thing to have for an occasional "peace of mind" check .

Colin.P

I track up my XM using a piece of metal conduit tube with a threaded rod that slides inside, with two nuts to lock the length. I adjust it by setting the length so that it just grips the inside edge of the tyres at the front, and then adjust the tracking so that it just slides freely between the back inside edges the same height from the ground. You need to roll the car back and forth each time you make an adjustment to take the stress off, and make sure the car is at normal ride height. I do have the advantage of a ramp I can drive it on but a couple of ordinary car ramps should do the job equally well.

My last pair of 'cheapie' front tyres lasted over 30k and the wear, although more on the edges was almost perfectly symetrical. I have just replaced them with Kleber which are Michelin but somewhat cheaper.

Peter.N.