Hi citroenxm

What year of manufacture are we talking about? The front o/s jacking point has collapsed on mine but no sign of rust (yet) Just looks like inapropriate jacking. I put a block of wood between it and the jack and it goes up OK. If they are going to start going rotten I will have to think about changing!

Peter.N.

Hi Peter N

I know you have a Series Two, which of course I haven't had much to do with, but so far Series one cars are the culprut, but I cannot see why a S2 car could'nt suffer in the same way when they get to the same age gap diference!

IE: A S1 at 13 years old, and S2 car when it gets to 15 years old... If you can understand what I'm trying to say..

Regards
citroenxm

Hi citroenxm

Oh yes, I understand exactly what you are saying and thats whats worrying me! I suppose they are nearing the end of the life of the galvanizing. My last CX only started showing any rust at about 10 years and I had it for seven but it wasn't in any of the usual places it was in the roof above the tailgate! I thought they had cured it with the XM but it seems not. Well, its OK at the moment but if it starts to go rotten I am afraid that will be the end of it. The metal is so thin now that its very difficult to weld, or may be its my age! but I certainly dont fancy doing it.

Peter.N.

Hi. All.

If you remove the rear arch liner, I'm sure there's a plug in the end of the sill. Whip it out and on a suitably hot, dry day inject a corrosion preventive. I'm going to stick my neck out here and say that I don't think Waxoyl is the business at all. It does shrink and crack --- just not impressed. For my money, in non-exposed areas, there's presently nothing to beat either Supertrol or Morris' Ankor Wax. (No, I'm not on commission for any of them). The very best exposed area product I ever came across was a product called Supratex and, guess what ?? They stopped making it !!

Mike.

I agree Mike.

Waxoil is the best thing I have found so far for exposed surfaces, as it sets and has a good chance of staying on, but for hollow sections engine oil is best as it creeps into all those seams where the rust usually starts, followed by one of the non setting products Mike mentions.

In the '50s when cars used to start rotting out after about three years, I had an 'arrangment' with my local garage who would spray the whole underside with oil while it was in for service. Yes, I could afford to send it in to a garage in those days!

Peter.N.

I know this thread is a bit old now but just to add a bit, my 2nd xm had duff sills and local car shop wanted a small fortune, but I jusy happened to have some old montego estate ones..........

Bit of welding bit of banging bit of bodging, sills done a treat.

Improvise!

Hi All

As mentioned elsewhere my 98R 2.5 failed its MOT last time on rusty sills and needed welding. An 8 year old car 120k so no extream mileage. Portsmouth based car but no evidence that they were dipping it into the sea to launch boats.
I cut up a 95N shell the other day and was very surprised at the amount of internal rust inside the cills.

Regards

XMexc

Xmexec,,

Hmm internal rust Easily expplained..

An in experience man NOT used to citroens, has used to RUBBISH jack on RUBBISH jacking points, then the car has moved or falled and BENT the inner side of the jacking point, which in turns tears it from the sill, thus opening a small line opening.. Of course jack and jill dont know this and drive their cars for many more miles on wet roads, and water gets INTO the sills and does it JOB!!!

Thats why they rust inside out, NOT outside in.. I think citroen should have used better seam welding/sealing..

I SHALL have to inprovise or unfortunally break the 2.1 SED I have needing the sills..

Regards to All

citroenxm