Radiator Replacement

[Masterclock]

Well what a fun day I had today.

Last week while servicing the car I noticed dryed antifreeze splatered up the front of the battery box. Closer investigation revealed a wet green patch in the top lefthand corner of the radiator. The car is in daily use for work, so I couldn't afford a sudden burst and promptly ordered a replacement. There is a good radiator repairer in Aberedeen who will recore a radiator, but he has a turnaround time of two days. I tried the local parts factor. He came up with a supplier who could get a new Valeo radiator for £170 +VAT, but 4-5 weeks wait. I finaly tried the Citroen dealer. A new radiator was priced at £440, but they also did a recored radiator for £190 and, more importantly, could have it in by the week end.

A simple job thought I, having done the one on the old 2.0L several years ago. Drain down, pull the hoses, pop the spring clips and we're away. WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. It took me six hours exactly,although I did stop and take the time to clean up the fusebox and connectors by the battery, as we shall see.

First problem after draining was that the radiator couldn't tilt back far enough to clear the slam panel due to the top pipe connection fouling on the battery box.

So, remove air cleaner lid and air trunk to throttle valve, remove air cleaner box. Unbolt LHM tank and tip it backwards so that it clear of its mont on the battery box. Unbolt Aircon desicator and unclip all cables attached to the box. Jack up and remove lefthand front wheel, remove plastic splash guard and slacken the two battery box mounting bolts from underneath the box. The bolts are in slotted holes so slackening is enough. The battery box has an extension that runs across the front of the air cleaner box that supports the fuse box, the two 30A fan fuses. Unbolt these and move out of way, remove bolt through extension in to inner wing. Remove bolt at back of battery box in to gearbox mount. The box can then be lifted and swung out of the way, it cant be removed as the bonnet release cable passes through a hole and would need the cable disconnecting which is unnecessary.

Tried to remove radiator again and hit snag no.2. Although I could now tilt the radiator back and lift it, it couldn't be lifted enough to get the bottom pegs clear of the bushed holes in the subframe. This time it was the ABS block and ECU fouling the radiator. The Late V6 radiator has inlet and outlet on the same side of the radiator, the lefthand side of the car. The ABS block sits on a metal platform across the lefthand front corner of the subframe. Unfortunately, the radiator outlet stub is under the platform and ECU module, which prevents it from lifting. To get at the platform bolts the plastic wheel arch liner has to come out to reveal two M8 bolts. The other side of the platform has a single M6 bolt in to the subframe front rail. The three bolts just needed slackening of half a dozen turns to allow the platform to lift far enough to let the locating pegs clear of the subframe.

The radiator was then slid sideways as far as it could go towards the righthand wing, and then raised at its right hand side and lifted out of the car. Installing the new radiator was then a reversal of the operations. The only exception being, I uncliped the retaining springs from under the slam panel, so that the new radiator wasn't damaged by them poking out. They could be clipped back in place once the radiator was located back in its correct position, but still tilted towards the engine.

While the battery box was out I took the oppotunity of the improved access to clean and tighten the connections within the fuse box, but I'll leave that for a separate topic.

The system was also flushed through and drained as per the workshop manuals instructions, the cylinder block drain cocks being a real pig to get to. The manual also advises that a refilling tool is used to maintain a head of water pressure in the system whilst bleeding out air. I found a two litre pop bottle with rubber tape wound round the neck until it was a push fit into the header tank worked perfectly. I always use a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze as coolant.

Ian

[citroenxm]

Ouch!!

I had to replace the Starter on my 90 deg V6...

The only way to do it was to remove the WHOLE front end.. Headlights, grill, front bumper. then front panel that houses it all including the Rad fans..

I then could EASYLY remove the radiator without disturbing the ABS block or battery tray...

Theres only about 8 or bolts holding the front on including the bumper bolts at the sides....

We learn the hard way.. Prehaps it wasn't the answer for you..

Regards
citroenxm

[Bigmixer]

That's the way I did the rad(s) on my 2.5 - I have done it a few times now and it's definatly the best way especially after you have done it once and copasliped all the bolts.
Bigmixer

[ds23]

Tru true. Nowadays I always remove the front on an XM if I'm going to do anything more than oilchange etc. Its MUCH simpler to remove alternator and radiator and such. Not to mention the clutchchange I just did. The Citroën original manual didn't stipulate front removal and it would have been a nightmare to do without removing the front!

This post has been edited by ds23 on June 26, 2006 08:37 am