Late 3.0l V6 24v

[johnm52]

Re: Gearbox Dipstick - Autoadaptive AL4 box

Whilst the early versions of these boxes had a dipstick, the design moved on. The arrangement I have seen is that under the box there are two concentric 'bolts'. This is the combined level/drain plug.

As I recall the instructions: add 500ml of the appropriate fluid to the box The fluid temp should be about 60C. Remove the smaller of the two bolts ?17mm? - the other is about 25mm. The fluid will drip out and will stop when the level is correct. To change the fluid remove the larger piece of this combined unit and save the fluid. Measure the fluid drained and add the same amount through the access on the top of the box. Again, add 500ml and then check level as above.
I have a word doc which gives the details of this gearbox as fitted to Xantia. The zipped size is greater than the site will allow me to attach (1.70Mb). Noz - can you give any suggestions about the file?

If anyone would like a copy, emails welcome.

[Masterclock]

DerekW,

Snap, I have the same lathe. Yes, I would be intrested in a drawing of the pins. I think there are four camshaft locking pins, plus a crank pully pin. There is also a pin gauge for checking the camshaft timing after the locking pins have been removed and the engine turned over once and a setting shim for the tension roller, is this correct?

The link to the website is www.br46464.co.uk it doesn't work as a link from within the signature.

My autobox is the 4HP20 made by ZF. It is fitted with a dipstick, but the manual states that it is sealed for life and never needs the fluid changed or filters cleaned. Indeed, the fluid is a special formulation and is only available via Citroen. However, I have a chum who has the same box fitted in an Audi A3, he described a similar snatch and his garage cuered it by replacing the fluid.

Heres a link to a site with some interesting info on the 4HP20 http://www.citdoks.de/inhalt.php



Ian

[Masterclock]

More detail here,

http://www.citdoks.de/anleitung.php?cr_id=241

The pages are in German, but fairly easily translate if fed in alta vista'a bable fish site

http://babelfish.altavista.com/

Ian

[XM v6 sadist]

Hi Masterclock

My XM has no dipstick and the manual states that the "gearbox decided" when it needs fluid changing depending on on style and number of changes that have occurred. It displays this by flashing the sport/econ/auto message and in normal driving style it is recommended at 75K

Cheers

Tony

[DerekW]

Masterclock, don't know how to post drawings on the forum so it'll have to be descriptive. Please excuse the mix of dimensional units, I don't have a metric mike.
In case you have a copy of Noz's workshop manual I've included the tool item references from the valve timing section. Knurling where mentioned is of course not essential and the knurled dimensions are given only as a guide.

Crankshaft and camshaft setting pins (5 off) (items 1 and 2 in the workshop manual).
70mm long overall. Main portion 0.311" diam x 50mm long, knurled portion 0.41" diam x 20mm long. Chamfer end to ease insertion (if you'll excuse the expression!).

Timing pin gauge (1 off) (item 7).
Two steps plus a knurled portion. 50mm long overall. First step 0.231" x 15mm long, second step 0.310" x 20mm, knurling 0.6" diam x15mm long. Chamfer end.

Belt retaining clip (item 7).
Steel strip, 1/32" thick (approx 20swg) x15mm wide x 240mm long, bent to a 67mm approx diam circle with the two end 10mm lengths bent outwards.

You'll also need a machine screw for adjusting the tensioner, an M8 x 1.25 x 80mm.

You will also need a dynamic tensioner adjusting shim (item 3) and camshaft immobilising key (item 5). They are called a"tensioning tool" and "pulley locking tool" in my kit and the design is somewhat different from Citroen's. Both will require a bit of ingenuity to describe and to manufacture the tensioning tool you'll need an end mill. I'll describe them if you wish but I think that's enough for now.

Derek

[noz]

Hi all,

Could I ask a favour of all of the posters in this section? Could we start a new topic for each of the items discussed above? That way the valuable information being exchanged can be found with the search engine at a later date by other members. So far this topic has covered about 10 different issues and the title of the topic tells you nothing of the content. Now that there's a section dedicated to these models by name there's no need to put '3.0 V6' in the topic title. All of the topics in here will be for those models. Rather, could we use useful titles that enable future searches to be more meaningful.

Sorry to be a jobsworth but I think its for the benefit of all.

Can we close this particular topic now?

Cheers

noz

[MacLeod]

I currently have a 24v 3.0 Exclusive. The gearbox also 'clunks' if I slow at a junction, hten move off without actually stopping - presumably deciding to go down to first when I put hte foot down. It can be alleviated by moving off gently. The exhaust needs to be replaced and a fine fellow in Elgin has just quoted me £400 for stainless steel plus £225 for a high-performance catalytic converter. I also need to sort a very bouncy ride. That was diagnosed as air in the rear suspension, but the concensus here appears to be dead spheres.
XM 3.0 Exclusive
XM 2.0Si auto
XM 2.0 Si manual
5 x CX 2.0
DS23
DS21
ID 19 Safari