Abs Fault Or Not May Be The Case ......

Hi Everyone...

Heres a strange one for you all...

I have as you may know by now a 1993 K reg, V6 SEi Auto.. It of course has ABS, I replaced a rear sensor to put my ABS Fault and Message light out and it worked for about a Week or two..
Now, my ABS light and Message is back on BUT now get this, the ABS STILL WORKS!!!!!

Do the electrical systems on these monsters have split circuits or what?? The light and message is on but when I panic brake I STILL have ABS!!!

I tried another ABR ECU and the light stays on...

Any thoughts, opinions, solutions?? I know I cant just take the bulb out because we all know the message will stay on... How frustrating..

Many thanks
Regards
citroenxm

ABS Fault?
With all due respect, could I ask how you know the ABS works still? My sure test is to take it onto a sandy (very) track and see what happens with hard braking. I have doubts about your assurance that "the ABS works". I don't think it is working as it should on all wheels and both axles. Techmanagain

Hello Guest!

Well it does still work, we have a gravelly track and at 30mph I slam the brakes and hey NO SKID MARKS!!!!
Also on a panic test on the main road, slam on the pedal and NO SKID again!
I know a little but this had stumpped me totally! The light is on so it shouldn't work , But it does..

Thanks
citroenxm

Had the same fault on my 2.0L ABS warning light came on weeks before the mot test. I used a simple switch and LED tester to read the ECU fault code and it came back with rear N/S sensor high resistance. I checked the resistance from the ECU connector and got about 2.5K Ohms. I think the standard resistance should be 1.2K The ABS was working OK but giving the alarm. The solution was the connector between the sensor and the car loom, tucked up above the rear sub-frame. The connector was corroded, and when disconnected one of the pins came away. I cut the connectors off and stripped and soldered the wires together and insulated them with heatshrink sleeve. Cured the fault. Only days later the ABS light came on again, this time it was the drivers side sensor. The sensor measured OK for loop resistance, but this time I also got about 2 Meg. Ohms between either leg of the sensor and earth. After breaking the connector under the subframe the fault still tested into the sensor. Corrosion in the hole that the sensor protrudes through in to the hub had crushed the sensor untill its body had split and moisture was causing the high resistance short to earth. The old sensor was a pig to remove, I ended up sawing the sensor body off flush with the swing arm and then drilling as much of the copper winding away with a small 3mm drill as possible and breaking the rest up with a small screwdriver and picking the bits out bit by bit.

That was a couple of years ago now, and the ABS has worked fine ever since.

By the way, taking the bulb out will fail the MOT, if the tester is on the ball. The manual clearly states that if a car is fitted with ABS the warning light must be seen to illuminate and then extinguish when the ignition is turned on. Failure to do so requires a test fail.