Replacing Clutch in a Citroen XM 2.5TD

[noz]

Hi all,

Please find attached a self help file for all those wishing to know how to replace the clutch in a 2.5TD with the engine in place.

With a straight run this should take a day and a half at the most.

There will be the inevitable mistakes I'm sure. If anyone spots any howlers please let me know and I'll correct them and upload an updated copy.

All criticism welcome, good or bad.

Cheers
noz

[noz]

John,

You mentioned earlier that there were slight variations in clutches for the 2.5TD. If you have that information to hand it would make a useful addition to the manual.

Cheers

noz

[xmexclusive]

Hi Noz

I believe that the variations concern the Hydraulic Clutch Drive.
If the existing fitted components are being reused there will be no problems.

If you need to source secondhand bits they need to be carefully compared.

I raised this issue as I have seen reference to 3 different push rod lengths.
There are also 2 or 3 different drive cylinder designs.
These cylinders are at the end of the hydraulic line and bayonet fit into the clutch housing.
The system was used on both MG5 and ML5 boxes in XM's and other vehicles.
In the final drive cylinder design Citroen admit defeat on the sealed system and add filling and bleeding points.
It maybe that the 2.5 XM did not change but stuck with the earliest version to the end.
The ML5 box mated with the ESJ9 V6 engine and no RHD XM's got this.
Some RHD Pug's did though.

I will know a bit more once I have the clutch and drive out of the rust bucket "T" reg estate that I am scrapping for spares.
So far I have undone the drive cylinder bayonet but not recovered it.
Visually it does not look quite the same as the earlier cars.
It was going into a "R" reg with a faulty clutch drive so I will check out for differences before I try fitting it.

John

This post has been edited by xmexclusive on September 07, 2012 08:48 am

[xmexclusive]

Hi Noz

Have now had a quick scan through the self help.
Very good, will help me no end.

I have found a method of drive shaft nut release that is not reliant on the car brakes.
A 17mm open ended spanner is an idea fit in the vent slots on the brake disk.
Fit and rotate this to the appropriate side of the brake caliper.
You can then apply as much force as the nut needs to release.

John

This post has been edited by xmexclusive on September 07, 2012 09:12 am

[citroenxm]

Hi john..

id just add about hydraulic clutch cylinders in that the xantia hdi 110 also used the ml box with a Sealed system right up to 2001 Y reg.. I also think the early C5s are sealed.. .. However i have seen a bleadable cylinder on a 2003 406 Hdi 90.. .. Ive not seen an equivalent 2003 hdi 110 to know if they had switched to bleadable..

the 2002 hdi 8v C5 was still a sealed system..so it looks like the changeoccurred as late as 2003. I think all hdi 16v engines all use a bleed cylinder...

[xmexclusive]

Hi Paul

Thanks, that is a useful update.

John

[noz]

Hi John,

That's a useful tip regarding jamming the brake disc with a spanner. As you know, they can be inordinatley tight. I've seen me dancing on the end of a 2m scaffolding pole on the tommy bar to get them loosened if they've never been off before. I'm always concerned about the fact that the poor strut and strut top have to provide the equal and opposite force to stop the hub rotating. When its very tight I worry that I might damage the piston in the strut or the strut seals or even the rubber part of the strut top.

cheers
noz

[kenhall1202]

I made this invaluable tool many years ago for the painless removal and tightening of shaft nuts. The main requirement is a 1.2m length of 40x8mm rectangular steel bar with holes drilled for a bolted strap and two wheel bolts.



Ken

This post has been edited by kenhall1202 on September 13, 2012 01:28 pm

[noz]

Ken,

That's an even better idea. It takes the strain off the strut to hold the hub still.

noz

[citroenxm]

Hi,

Is this a thread about undoing driveshaft CV nuts???

If an alloy is fitted, I remove the R clip and cap, swap it for a Steelie, then put the car back on all fours, and undo the nut with my "Giant" socket set... and a scaffold bar! NEVER beats me that way, and sooooo little effort..

[xmexclusive]

Hi All

The reason I developed my method was because so little of the car was left.
I tried variations of Paul's and Ken's method but just lifted the remains of the car off the ground.

John

[nightmare]

Brilliant "HOW TO" Noz.

P.S. I found (when I changed the sump) that I had to remove the main accumulator to get at the intercooler bracket bolts.

I simpathise with you about the "nanny state" but if people are going to do these things they should.....

... "Take responsability for their own actions"

or "Pay someone else to do the work".