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> de pressurising system
vive la difference
Posted: October 08, 2011 04:46 pm


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Hello Everybody
I am just begining to dismantle my S1 TD12 for parts, And have just read in Haymes that the engine needs to be running to do this , as it is a non runner is there another method Brian


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1991 citroen xm v6 54,000 miles
NORMANDY FRANCE
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Jan-hendrik
Posted: October 10, 2011 10:22 am


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Many members here are also active on the parallel forum - as you know dry.gif


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2000 XM 3.0 V6 24v Exclusive Auto 70k km (LHD; ORGA 8569)
Green (the colour that is)

Location: Hiroshima City, Japan
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vive la difference
Posted: October 11, 2011 04:53 pm


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Hello
Yes i see your name on the other forum as well, I find both really helpfull with such a lot of knowlegable people on both (such as yourself), interesting you are in Japan my son spends some time there he has a Japanese wife

regards Brian


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1991 citroen xm v6 54,000 miles
NORMANDY FRANCE
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noz
Posted: October 11, 2011 11:28 pm


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Hi Brian,

I've managed to get the system pressurised with no engine a couple of different ways:

If the engine can be turned over then remove the glow plugs and put it in first gear. Jack up one of the front wheels and rotate the wheel forwards by grabbing the tyre. It will take a reasonable number of turns to get any pressure so be prepared for some free keep fit.

Otherwise, you can remove the drive belt form the high pressure pump. Pass the belt over the chuck of an electric drill and insert a smooth rod in the chuck. Wearing a pair of gloves grab the smooth rod with one hand and the drill handle with the other. Pull on the belt so that it gets a grip and energise the drill. It helps if its a variable speed drill so that you've got some control. Again, it will take a while.

Please let us know how you get on.

Cheers

noz cool.gif


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'10 '59' C5 2.0 HDi Exclusive Tourer Metallic Grey
'97 'P' XM 2.5 TD VSX Saloon RP 6610 Blue
'97 'R' XM 2.5 TD Exclusive Saloon RP 7158 Silver
'88 CX 22TRS Croisette
Location: Avonbridge - Stirlingshire - Central Scotland
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vive la difference
Posted: October 12, 2011 06:56 am


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Hello Noz
Thank you your reply, maybe a little confusion, as i am breaking the car for parts i was concerned about pressure in the system before i dismantled the suspension etc, but no problems so far,
The car is an S1 TD12 and all parts will be available

Brian


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1991 citroen xm v6 54,000 miles
NORMANDY FRANCE
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noz
Posted: October 12, 2011 08:08 am


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Hi Brian,

The problem with the hydractive sphere and the brake accumulator (assuming you have either or both in an S1) is that they trap pressure behind their respective valves. The way to depressurise the system is to pressurise it first and this opens the said valves, hence my previous suggestion and your initial question. The system can then be depressurised in sequence and safely.

If your model has a hydractive sphere on each axle then you can unscrew the tubing nut on the large 10mm dia pipes going to the wheel spheres. They are of the conventional flared end type whereby slackening them off will allow any pressurised fluid to safely escape past the threads. You'll just need a bucket underneath.

To depressurise the brake accumulator (again assuming it has one), open the bleed nipple on a brake caliper and press the brake pedal. This will allow the contents of the sphere to empty safely through the bleed nipple.

Trying to de-pressurise by slackening off one of the traditional Citroen pipe ends is not a good idea. In that tubing arrangement the threads of the tubing nut take no part in the sealing process. The rubber ferrule on the end of the pipe does all of the sealing. Hence, even when you slacken the tubing nut nothing will escape. That is, until you reach the last thread. Once the tubing nut threads clear the last thread on the fitting the pressure then pushes the entire pipe out of the fitting with an immediate and explosive release of pressure with obvious consequences. However, if the car is scrap anyway, you can afford to cut the pipes with a pair of snips. Cover the point at which you are going to cut the pipe with a rag and cut the pipe with the snips underneath the rag. As you press on the snips handles you'll crush the pipe somewhat in the process. This will limit the hole out of which the pressure can escape. The presence of the rag will eliminate the velocity of the resulting jet of fluid and safely allow the pressure to escape.

Hope that clears up any confusion.

cheers

noz cool.gif


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'10 '59' C5 2.0 HDi Exclusive Tourer Metallic Grey
'97 'P' XM 2.5 TD VSX Saloon RP 6610 Blue
'97 'R' XM 2.5 TD Exclusive Saloon RP 7158 Silver
'88 CX 22TRS Croisette
Location: Avonbridge - Stirlingshire - Central Scotland
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vive la difference
Posted: October 13, 2011 02:30 pm


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Hi All
Thank you NOZ, helpfull as always!, I am nearly there!, motor and gearbox out over the weekend i hope, i am thinking about trying to remove them complete with sub-frame what are your thoughts? i have to source a tool to remove the speres should not be to much of a problem here in France i hope

once again thank you for sharing your knowledge with us on the forum invaluable!!
Brian


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1991 citroen xm v6 54,000 miles
NORMANDY FRANCE
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noz
Posted: October 13, 2011 03:56 pm


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Hi Brian,

Its certainly feasible to drop the engine and box out with the subframe since that's how they're put in. You'd need either the car on a 4-poster ramp so that the subframe can be dropped clear or a means to hoist the body upwards leaving the engine, box and frame on the ground. The problem with the latter is achieving access to the bolts on the subframe to undo them. The closer it is to the ground the harder that's going to be.


I know there were some sphere removal tools on ebay for a while. Not sure if they're still there. Removing them without a tool may be problematic.

Best of luck,

noz cool.gif


--------------------
'10 '59' C5 2.0 HDi Exclusive Tourer Metallic Grey
'97 'P' XM 2.5 TD VSX Saloon RP 6610 Blue
'97 'R' XM 2.5 TD Exclusive Saloon RP 7158 Silver
'88 CX 22TRS Croisette
Location: Avonbridge - Stirlingshire - Central Scotland
PMEmail PosterICQAOLYahoo
Top
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