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> 2.1 Td '98 High Idle And Engine Shutdown At 2000 R
dieselflosse
Posted: March 05, 2009 09:00 am


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What can be done with the screws of the throttle potentiometer? There is possibility to turn whole thing...



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Tero

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robertmnorton
Posted: March 05, 2009 06:57 pm


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Hi dieselflosse, the throttle position sensor has - amongst other components - a pedal position switch which is open with the pedal released.The status of this switch provides the validation for the ecu programme.By rotating the switch you run the risk of an "invalid" signal caused by closure of the switch at idle - pedal NOT released, the same as if the throttle cable is too tight, this will cause the engine management light to illuminate. The change up rpm is consistent with my two hp18 td's.Second to first gear changedown i do not know, i don't think i have demanded that.Will look at the info i have to find out though.
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dieselflosse
Posted: March 06, 2009 06:44 am


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Hi!

Fault or feature... When driving about 85-90 km/h there is feelable vibration on the steering wheel. Normal? An other quite strong vibration point is when standing gear on (D).

When started this project I expected very smooth drive. It is not so smooth beacause of these different vibrations... unsure.gif


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Tero

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DOD
Posted: March 06, 2009 09:47 pm


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You should have a smooth drive with these cars, are the engine mounts tightened properly? There will probably be a noticeable clunk when you start off if not. I swore to never have an automatic XM again after getting stuck in snow as you can not lock into second gear to get going in slippery conditions and there's an awful lot of car to push. Good luck.
all the best,
DOD.
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dieselflosse
Posted: March 09, 2009 11:45 am


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Third time... I desided to take that fly wheel off once more. I heard there is a risk to get damage to the crankshaft when flywheel shakes enough.

So, I have plan to do this take away and put back manover during the weekend after next one. Since then I drive with neighbor's Merc... I have quite nice neighbor. I have droven one and half month (4000km) with his Merc without any charge. I made one oil change as a rent, but he didn't ask it.







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Tero

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dieselflosse
Posted: March 09, 2009 11:53 am


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QUOTE (DOD @ Mar 6 2009, 20:47 PM)
I swore to never have an automatic XM again after getting stuck in snow as you can not lock into second gear to get going in slippery conditions and there's an awful lot of car to push.

In Finland we have to use the winter tires (optional with the spikes) during the snow time. And you can assist your getting going by pressing parking brake a little bit.

Overall, we are so used to snow that problems we have very rarely...

This post has been edited by dieselflosse on March 09, 2009 12:44 pm


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Tero

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dieselflosse
Posted: March 23, 2009 07:11 am


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Hello!

Finally it is done! We took flywheel away once more and add thicker shim between it and crank axle. The casting of the engine block was a little bit up around the crank axle. That wwas the reason of the noice.

Now engine runs smoother and no horrible sound any more. And car goes faster! But that is not the result of flywheel repairing... Tube from turbo to cooler was a little bit loose rolleyes.gif

So, the change from manual to automatic is done. It took about 120 mhrs, but it is done!
(If we start all over the number of hours might be 40-50).

Now I can consentrate to customizing of my 2cv... And maybe I'll fix the remote control of XM's central lock too... smile.gif


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Tero

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dieselflosse
Posted: May 27, 2010 06:13 am


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Hello for a long time!

I have tried to find a reason for vibration which comes when engine runs certain rpms. My guess is that flywheel got some hit during the changhing project...

So, I desided to do it once more biggrin.gif

user posted image

user posted image


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Tero

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dieselflosse
Posted: August 02, 2010 10:39 am


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Hi!

Now the pagage is back under the hood and works find biggrin.gif I got it done yesterday after a couple months project time...

Only problem left is ABS. There was some errors every now and then, before this big transmission change (sometimes ABS light stayed on). Now the light shakes a little bit when it should turn off but then stay on.

Any ideas?



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Tero

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Peter.N.
Posted: August 03, 2010 04:34 pm


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Sounds as though you have a wheel sensor that is not working, you can check them from the plug on the ABS ECU, if you have a Haynes manual I think it tells you what pins they are connected to, all should read about 200 ohms to earth.

The problem is very often due to bad connections on the plugs, the front ones are quite easy to get at the rear less so.

Well done on all that engineering, when I changed the clutch thrust bearing on one of mine it took a week! ohmy.gif

Peter


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'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
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steelcityuk
Posted: August 11, 2010 02:08 pm


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Hi Tero,

Excellent work. I hope you get your ABS problem sorted out. As Peter said it's simple enough to measure the resistances from the ABS ECU plug. Have you checked the connections in the front wheel arches?

Steve.


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