Turbo Strip Down, RIP

Hi all

Finished work with an hour of light left today so i had a quick go at the turbo and thought i would post some pictures of the strip down here as a reference....

I love the way the front of the XM comes apart, very quick and easy to get access to the engine.


Leaves had built up here and caused corrosion to start eating the lower edge of the inter cooler (CHECK YOURS NOW) which is unneccassarily massive by the way.


I give you the Citroen Charger, Drives well but gets a bit hot when stationary for long periods now



D

This post has been edited by dean on February 18, 2009 10:23 pm

With some bullbars, machine gun turrets, and reinforced doors, that would make quite the '28 Days Later' / 'Dawn of the dead' mobile...

Loving the size of that dirty big intercooler... what do you mean unnecessarily big... is there any such thing??

On a side point, I only discovered recently that Peugeot 306s with the 1.9TD (sorry, 'D-Turbo' if your names Kev ), only have a piddly little top intercooler, and not the proper FMIC like the Xantias. They must be really down on power, apparently charge cooling can make a massive difference, so the fact this TCT has one the size of the Berlin Wall can only be a good thing...right??


Ciarán

This post has been edited by Ciaran on February 19, 2009 01:14 am

Yeah bigger is better, but only to a point. I dont know why they would put such a large intercooler on a low pressure system, most higher pressure systems ive seen have had intercoolers half the size .

D

How do you get the nosecone off quickly? Are there bolts through from the wheelarch and not much else.?

Hi Dieselman

If you want to do what i have done you need undo,

3 bolts, 10mm head, along the top of the nose cone, visible with the bonnet open

take out the two side light units and undo the 10mm headed bolt behind each one
and remove the nose cone.

unclip the bonnet release cable outer from the n/s headlamp and the cable itself from the bonnet catch mechanism

now undo the 2 bolts, 13mm head, in front of the wheels in each wheel arch behind the oval rubber grommet that holds the bumper on.

now remove the 4 bolts, 13mm head, 2 each side of the slam panel with bonnet open and tilt the whole front of the car forward to access the wiring harness. I find it much easier to undo the harness from the car although it wont start with the relays missing its easier to do it this way then get the harness out of the nose section when its on the deck to put back on the car if you need to keep it running, so unplug whatever needs unplugging

Now get under the car and take off the two towing eye covers, you will now see 1 hex head bolt under each that holds the bottom of the nose assembly in place, undo these and it will all fall into you lap...............easy.

Don't think ive forgotten anything

Edit, Took me an hour to do from getting the tools out to putting them back, although ive done it a few times, it is an easy thing to get off.

D

This post has been edited by dean on February 19, 2009 09:52 pm

Thanks, it must improve radiator and engine bay access immensely.

Thinking.......


How do you get the sidelights out.?

Sorry to be asking dumb Q's.

This post has been edited by Dieselman on February 19, 2009 10:05 pm

Yep, all i have to do now is take the rads out, which will take as long as it takes to get the hoses off and then the engine is out in the open.............what are you thinking?

Just seen, the sidelights have long plastic arm coming off the back, you just push it to one side and they pop out. Get a torch, shine it in behind the headlamps and sidelights (in the engine bay) and all will become clear.
D

This post has been edited by dean on February 19, 2009 10:11 pm

Everyone says the 2.1TD head gasket is a nightmare to do, but I wonder if access would be significantly improved by removing front and rads then undoing the engine and gearbox mountings and canting the engine forwards.

Also you're not leaning so far over so it's more comfortable.

It will absolutely make it more comfortable to work on which is always the problem with the xm, when it sinks down low, having to reach across the big engine bay will kill your back, it does mine and im quite young.
I think it would make life easier too, will be a fiddle at the timing and turbo sides of things though depending on how much you can tilt it......

D

What are you saying...

backache isnt ageist?..................

D

just about ready to lift the engine out now with some pictures to come, just for those who dont take xm's apart on a regular basis heres some pics that may be usefull/interesting.

Allmost ready to lift


Check behind the wheel arch liners, it should look like this


Not like this


where the windscreen washer resovoir lives


oh and if you have ever seen any posts regarding how much of a pita it is to get the manifold to downpipe bolts off it, although looks positivly cavernous from this photo


There isnt actually that much room to swing a hacksaw


D

Hope you're going to remove the bonded glass - remember you can weld metal but
NOT the glass and I know ALL about this as some pondlife has just cracked the front
screen on my 2.5TD. I wouldn't want to even begin to work out how I'd replace the
big side window glasses and feel certain it would scrap the car. I broke a Xantia
where I paid a glass fitter blokey to remove all the bonded in stuff - took him 10
minutes but charged me £40 for the privilege...

Andrew

i was thinking of having the glass out, my prestige has got the frosty bottom corners on the windscreen but this estate hasnt, then of course there are the quarter lights etc etc, a fair bit of money as you say.

D

It never ceases to amaze me how many pipes there are on these engines .......I hope you took plenty of photo's for reference Dean