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> Goddammit-can't Undo The Accumulator Sphere!
Andmcit
Posted: September 27, 2008 08:42 pm


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Is there a knack to removing the damned thing without damaging yourself or the rad or a dozen
other fragile items littered about the vicinity? The car is the W plate 2.1TD with an AUTOBOX and
AirCon so EVERYTHING is in the way such as coolers rads, etc etc. I haven't even looked at the
latest 2.5 engine bay yet but thought I'd seen it all on the 24v'er but that has MORE room!!! wacko.gif

I can see it and just about touch it, but my trusty old Pleiades wrench won't even go into the
rough area I'm aiming for, nor the BIG chain pipe wrench or the fancy metal strap pukka Citroen
tool. I'm not expecting to get away with one of those smaller chain band jobbies that you use on
the end of an extension bar for oil filters either and even a hammer and chisel won't go anywhere
near it...

I just can't think of a way to remove it that won't include damaging something and the damned
thing still sits there taunting me pointing up straight at me!!

I have even considered removing the whole hydraulic block of the regulator but don't want to
unnecessarily disturb the hydraulic high pressure and main feed pipes.

On this score do I wimp out and pay a Cit specialist a menu price for a 'simple' sphere renewal
- something I've not had to resort to for about 15years?

No wonder the damned sphere is totally flat as everyone else who's considered changing it has
been beaten back away from it. sad.gif

Andrew

This post has been edited by Andmcit on September 28, 2008 03:40 pm
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Jan-hendrik
Posted: September 28, 2008 10:26 am


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QUOTE
I have even considered removing the whole hydraulic block of the regulator but don't want to unnecessarily disturb the hydraulic high pressure and main feed pipes.


But perhaps this is the easiest way to do it. Get yourself the necessary replacement seals and a perfectly fitting brake pipe spanner. Depressurize the system, remove HP regulator with sphere and do the job on your workbench. This is how I did it on my former V6 smile.gif


--------------------
2000 XM 3.0 V6 24v Exclusive Auto 70k km (LHD; ORGA 8569)
Green (the colour that is)

Location: Hiroshima City, Japan
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Andmcit
Posted: September 28, 2008 10:56 am


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Well Jan, it's been increasingly likely that this will be the way to go being one of the more
'engineering solutions' as opposed to more brutal approaches!! I was hoping there was a
simpler work around or the suggestion that any Cit specialist has just thetool for this job!

I've been looking on ebay at these dome strapped collars with a socket drive on their crown
but don't like the single bolt gripping the sphere fastener and would expect the socket drive
to shear somewhere so wasting £20quid - may as well pay this to a garage to sort it!

Andrew
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Jan-hendrik
Posted: September 28, 2008 11:03 am


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Is there a reliable Cit dealer who will do the job for 20 quid? In that case, go for it biggrin.gif You need to have this done only once every 3 years or so, so it's not a big expense, is it?


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2000 XM 3.0 V6 24v Exclusive Auto 70k km (LHD; ORGA 8569)
Green (the colour that is)

Location: Hiroshima City, Japan
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Andmcit
Posted: September 28, 2008 11:24 am


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No doubt the reality may be more expensive but the right tool would have the sphere off in minutes
so depressurising the car is the only other main job in renewing the sphere: in theory only a modest
part of even an expensive garage's hourly rate. Mind, if the radaitor needs removal that'd be a
whole different ball game altogether...

Andrew
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Jan-hendrik
Posted: September 28, 2008 11:30 am


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huh.gif I was just wondering how you managed the 15 years you mentioned wacko.gif


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2000 XM 3.0 V6 24v Exclusive Auto 70k km (LHD; ORGA 8569)
Green (the colour that is)

Location: Hiroshima City, Japan
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Andmcit
Posted: September 28, 2008 11:58 am


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laugh.gif laugh.gif

The Xm in question is a new acquisition earlier this year with the accumulator being a new
challenge for me where the other Citroens have all been easy to cope with since I last paid
for a clutch change on a CX GTi well over 15 years ago now!!

The 'ribbing' and leg pulling I'd get from the local guy if I turned up asking for help now though... biggrin.gif

Andrew
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Jan-hendrik
Posted: September 28, 2008 12:03 pm


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QUOTE
The 'ribbing' and leg pulling I'd get from the local guy if I turned up asking for help now though... biggrin.gif

Got to swallow your pride tongue.gif


--------------------
2000 XM 3.0 V6 24v Exclusive Auto 70k km (LHD; ORGA 8569)
Green (the colour that is)

Location: Hiroshima City, Japan
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dean
Posted: September 28, 2008 03:34 pm


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"Got to swallow your pride tongue.gif "

Dont do it Andrew, be a man! struggle on for day's and day's and day's and day's and................ laugh.gif .
I know my engine bay has more room than a 2.1 but i used a strap type oil filter wrench 3 long extension bars and a 3 foot breaker bar, the extension's bring the breaker bar out clear of the engine bay so you can pull hard on it without risk of punching a hole in the rad if the wrench slips.

Good luck
D


--------------------
92 xm 20i prestige auto (modified)R.P 5678
96 Xantia Activa (modified)
location-Isle of wight
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Assich
Posted: September 29, 2008 07:26 am


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I use a motorcycle chain on a filter strap socket fitting as I found the filter wrench straps tore with the force required.
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roddew
Posted: September 29, 2008 10:59 am


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Another useful dodge when working in this area is to find a thin sheet of something hard to shield the rad fins from damage.
I use one of the round type of removal tools with the bolt on the side, then position it so that 1/2" extensions can clear the car but are in direct contact with the filler on the top of the sphere. Several sharp raps with a hammer whilst applying rotational force has worked for me on several different cars.

Rodders.


--------------------
Rodders,

2.1 TD Auto Rp 6225
2.1 TD Auto Rp 6027
2.1 TD auto Series I


Oh, and a couple of VERY silly old Ford Econolines. (4x4 one has to go)
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Andmcit
Posted: September 29, 2008 11:41 am


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Hi Rod. Good to hear from you!

Are you describing this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CITROEN-BX-CX-XANTIA...Z140271158644QQ

I'm just not sure the single gripping bolt on the side is strong enough.

All the best, Andrew
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DerekW
Posted: September 29, 2008 05:37 pm


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Thanks for the lead, Andrew.

If it works, and from the positive replies it seems to, then it looks like the answer to a sticky problem.

Derek



--------------------
1999 3.0V624v Exclusive Black! (RP8362)
2004 C3 Sensodrive Exclusive
1994 ZX Aura 1.8 auto
Location: 5 miles North of Boston, Lincolnshire
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techmanagain
Posted: September 29, 2008 06:58 pm


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.....Several sharp raps with a hammer whilst applying rotational force has worked for me on several different cars.........

Me too! Never had an easier one to turn after only a couple of real belts with a lump hammer onto a blunt-ended 1 inch bar - one belt each side of the sphere just where it is screwed into the mounting. Came off in my hand!


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Xantia 2 litre HDi Saloon X reg 1999
.Peugeot 306 1.8 Petrol Automatic Hatchback. Now for sale.
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roddew
Posted: September 29, 2008 08:34 pm


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Hi Andrew et al

yes that looks like the tool I used (had-sob!) just beware of a similar looking device which has a 3/4" bolt where the 1/2" drive should be. That must be weaker. I agree the pinch bolt isn't ideal and needs to be very tight not to slip, but what else is there? A mark/notch on the perimeter of the sphere will help it grip if slippage is a problem. You sometimes need a good bit of force and it will let go in a hurry with only a small amount of rotation available which is why protecting the rad from the pinch bolt is important.

While I'm here Andrew, Onyx started easily today and runs well. PM me if you'd like to talk more about that and your V6.

Rodders.



--------------------
Rodders,

2.1 TD Auto Rp 6225
2.1 TD Auto Rp 6027
2.1 TD auto Series I


Oh, and a couple of VERY silly old Ford Econolines. (4x4 one has to go)
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