Will Buy A Xm

Try signing up at http://service.citroen.com.

Ken

Cruise control is not functioning, the light is always off and there's no fuse reference in the manual, and its not the same position as UK cars, any clue? cheers

The most likely item could be the brake switch thats holding the system in the OFF setting..

What you can try, 10 mm bolt on the back of the pedal, remove the pedal it comes away as a complete swith...

Split the pedal to reveal the switch inside the pedal, clean up the two contact areas, if you understand electronics you can see the two seperate contacts, with the switch contacts facing you the cruise contact is the LEFT one, make sure these are NOT touching... reassemble and try again...

Good luck

Rgds
Paul

No offense, but I would advise against the hit or miss approach. Starting dismantling the brake pedal, not knowing what you are doing won't help a lot. If the dashboard switch does not light, there is no power going to it. The brake switch has nothing to do with that. There is a fuse in the circuit. For LHD vehicles this is F2. What the brake switch does is interrupt the power to the cruise control relay. The only way to find the fault is a systematic approach

There is an electric diagram here:
http://club-xm.com/forum/index.php?showto...=cruise+control

This post has been edited by Jan-hendrik on September 08, 2008 11:42 pm

as I recall there was something attached to the throttle cam when you first got the car that was broken? That was the throttle actuator for the cruise control. Have you managed to repair it, as the system won't work without it.

regards
Dave

Yes, I had fixed the rod of the CControl, the light never comes on, its supposed to be a fuse or a malfunction, will try check fuses first and spray contact cleaner without disassembling pedal. Whats the knob behind the sphere for? that one at the far right in the picture, thats a cable coming undearneath that ends at the knob

This post has been edited by cmacedo on September 09, 2008 04:39 am

The adjustment knob on the end of the cable is the centering 'tuning' for the XM's DIRAVI high power
assisted steering; you can use this to bias the steering to the right or left. Before altering it though
bear in mind other factors can influence the 'pull' of the car's steering to the straight ahead centering
including the road camber, tyre pressures, wheel and suspension arm bearings and suspension bushes.

Andrew

This post has been edited by Andmcit on September 09, 2008 09:43 am

Sigh .... daravi .... Now that's how a car should drive.... Can someone send me over the gear to convert mine to daravi .... With a CX or SM rack so it's 2 or 2.5 turns lock to lock, not a appalling 10.5 turns lock to lock like the car here

seeya,
Shane L.

Hi Camcedo

On the cruise control fault finding I agree with Jan's logical approach. It will also help for you to know where the bits are and how to get to them. As most of us work with RHD XM's then you may need to get Jan to pinpoint some of the items. Ease of getting to items to check them is also an important consideration so take the easy ones first. The cruise control ECU (item 60) is typically a large silver electrical case fixed to the front of the main ECU box in the engine compartment. All tests will need the ignition on to get the supply through fuse 2. Check pin 8 of this cruise ECU to see that it has a good earth contact. You will have checked fuse 2 already but also check fuse 19 as this supplies the speed signal to the cruise ECU. Then you need to check the cruise on/off switch (item 611). To get this switch out for test it is easiest on a car with aircon to take the aircon control panel out and then push the switch and wiring out from behind. Pulling or levering the switch from the front will just take the top cover off and may well damage it or the switch. Aircon panel just clips in place so lever it gently along the bottom edge with a thin blade and it will unclip. No need to unplug it just leave it hanging on the wires. Failure of this switch is unusual but not unknown. As you will not have a spare it can be replaced for test purposes with a wire link between pins 1 and 2 of the yellow plug. Once you have 12 volts through this switch check that it has also reached pin 10 of the cruise ECU. Now you can check the cruise selector switch (item 214) but do not dismantle it until you know you need to replace it and have the replacement. This switch is known to fail. Check first that with the switch normal the 12 volts on pin 10 of the cruise ECU also appears on pin 2 of the ECU, get an assistant move the selector switch and check that pin 2 looses the 12 volts. Then check that the different switch positions give 12 volts at pins 3 and 4 of the cruise ECU. If all this has worked the put a temporary link between pin 10 and pin 9 of the cruise ECU and drive to see if the cruise now works. Speed will need to be more than 40kph to enable cruise. If it works with this link in place then the fault will either be the brake pedal switch (item 319) or the gearbox control switch(es). These are either the clutch switch (item 328) on manuals or on automatics the cruise relay (item 831) and the autobox relay (item 801).
The next stage is the vacuum pump (item 760) and the cruise control electro-valve (item 438). I think these will be found in the forward part of one of the wheel archs. Sorry cannot remember which. First it might be worth linking pin 10 and pin 1 of the cruise ECU to see if you can hear the electro-valve click in and the vacuum pump start up. After that check out the visible parts of the vacuum piping then move onto the actual pump. If all this fails then finally check the cruise ECU by substitution if you can get one of us to send you a known good spare.

I have put this together hopefully in a logical manner. If anyone can see errors or better easier checks please post your comments.

John

This post has been edited by xmexclusive on September 09, 2008 02:16 pm

The button in mine did nothing. A relay down near the right headlight had corroded contacts (also the vacuum pump in the wheel arch had a split pipe).

seeya,
Shane L.

And you still don't know if it's working, I suppose

my ignorance to not reading the original post re cruise control...

I should shut my mouth...

Paul

And you still don't know if it's working, I suppose

Works well............................. When I dont' have the damn car in about 1/2millions bits ........................

And you still don't know if it's working, I suppose

Works well............................. When I dont' have the damn car in about 1/2millions bits ........................

You mean before you had it in about 1/2 million bits (Can't predict how things will be [/B]after[B]

[I'll never learn how this stupid edit program works

This post has been edited by Jan-hendrik on September 09, 2008 02:30 pm

Very good your tips. Tried to take switch out but yellow plug was difficult to remove from. sprayed some contact cleaner inside swtch and all fuse panel w/o removing fuses. will try on module under bonnet (wich one is the cruise control?). Brake pedal will be the last one. There are 4 relays on left and two on right side near headlamps, will clean them all. When removed the aircon panel had inspected inside and found everything in mint conditions and clear like new. CControl light stills off