Xm Ride Quality

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Guys,

well after driving the XM around for a few days I have decided it's ride quality is quite poor. Big bumps obsorbtion is good, small bumps are not. Hard mode right ?

I can hear the electro-valves squeeling when it's shutoff. Last night I turned it off, pushed on the front. "Firmish" about right ... Then the electro-valve stopped, and it firmed up considerably. Same with the back, opened a door, the rear is soft'ish (it's suspension sphere's are down 10bar at the back, so need recharging in the near future).... And much firmer once the electrovalves cycle off.

The Xantia VSX on it's low profile gumballs ride MUCH better than the bigger XM on it's squishy M&S rated tires... HHHhhhmmm,....

Does anyone have instructions on reading the hyperactive suspension error codes ?

seeya,
Shane L.

[rowanmoor]

For reading error codes you want the following thread:
Code Reader Thread
There is a second version of the PDF on page 2 of the thread with some more/updated codes.

All you need is some wire, an LED, a resistor and if you are feeling posh a switch but you can manage without the switch. You will also need a way of connecting to the pins on the connector. I find small croc clips work fine, but are a bit fiddly to connect cos you have to do it while dangling upside down in the drivers footwell.

There is a bit of a knack to using it - due to the timing aspect of it. You will get the knack after some practice.

There is a big 30(?) way connector under a flap under the steering wheel (yours is S2 isn't it?) - towards the peddles. That is where it connects.

Now, I have a printout at home that shows the full pinout of that connector, but I have no idea where I got it from. It should be on Noz's CD. There are ground and +12V pins in there - I think they are A1 and A2 or it could be A2 and A3 or A1 and A3... Not much help there I'm afraid. I expect I could scan it in if you need, but that may take a good few days to find the time.

[rowanmoor]

You may also find this thread of use about the diode problem that is common.

The other thing to consider is hydraulic system pressure. George is the expert on this. Basically if the pressure drops too low then the electrovalves close, so testing the pressure regulator is a good idea to make sure it is within spec. George had a big thread about this somewhere on here which I can't find at the moment.

[rowanmoor]

Found a French version of the connector pinouts on XM-L Here

[rowanmoor]

And while I am at it, you were asking about the indicator relay issue on XM-L and here. The bits I found a long time ago were on FrechCarForum - no wonder I couldn't find them here or XM-L.

First Thread
Second Thread
Third Thread

The relay is on the top side of the fuse board. I accessed it by taking out the glove box and getting to it from above. It is one of the 3 nearest the passenger seat. I seem to remember that the resistor in question is under some other component like the relay making it even more fiddly to replace, but it is possible.

It doesn't solve any smoking issues with the switch - just stops the relay going mad from the current leakage in the switch. If your switch does start smoking too much then I guess it could be a fire hazard as some have suggested, but I find that every year or so it smokes one day for 10 seconds or so and then is fine for another years use. It hasn't got hot or anything yet.

Now to try and find the original thread about this and post it there so it is in the right place too...

[DoubleChevron]

Fantastic Guys !!!!!

I'll let you know how I go, it maybe a few weeks as I've just started pulling the car apart to give it a splash of paint .... Hmm, maybe I should post duplicate the painting thread here as you guys will know how to pull the bits apart that I'm not sure of

seeya,
Shane L.

[Jan-hendrik]

Not satisfied with how your XM suspension feels? Begin by discovering how it works

This post has been edited by Jan-hendrik on August 08, 2008 07:46 am