Rear Centre Sphere Removal, Or Not!!

At the moment the Xm is on stands looking very undignified with her @rse in the air!

Try as I might I cannot budge the centre sphere to unscrew it. The mounting bracket is bending instead!

If members remember this sphere was only replaced last year but it turned out I was supplied the wrong sphere so I have a new replacement ready to go on. I followed Noz's idea and removed the spare wheel carrier. The exhaust is still on but not presenting too much of a problem as I can still get the removal tool on above the exhaust and have room to pull it. I'm sure if the bracket was solid I could break the seal, but everything is moving. I don't want to break the bracket off or I will be stuffed then. I can see the gap between the sphere and the threaded insert so its still relatively clean and I've sprayed it with release oil. It must be the o ring thats holding it. Any suggestions?

As an aside it's not too bad under the back. Rust just starting slightly round the edges of some panels and the rear subframe mtgs just looking a bit rough. The wheel carrier is still solid but rough, I think I'll clean it and paint it with that rustproof paint (you know the mottled stuff! ) If I can get the sphere done I will get some aerosol treatment and have a good spray round.


Hammerite!! Doh!

This post has been edited by demag on February 27, 2008 10:37 am

Hi Dave

I' m sure you've done it right but, just in case, have u lowered the car while idling? If you've done this more than 30secs after switching engine off, then the sphere will still have the operational pressure in. Can't think of anything else keeping it so tight, unless it was overtightened when fitted.

cheers
George

Hi demag,

I posted a photo before on how to get that rear sphere off. I just can't remember where it is at the moment. I used a pair of 18" stilsons to grab ahold of the electrovalve body to provide the necessary reaction to the sphere tool. Once you have two handles to hold its easy to push them together at the same radius to slacken the sphere.

I'll see if I can track down the photo.

cheers

noz

Another possibility would be to try some of that penetrating freezing spray to see if that works. It's about £5 per tin though.

Steve.

Just got in from work but I was thinking last night along similar lines Noz. Wondering if I could hold the bracket with a long moveable spanner whilst trying to turn the sphere with the tool. I've got some stillys but smaller than18". I can always pop to machine mart and get some though they're only 2 miles away. And holding the valve will be better than holding the thin bracket.

It will be so nice to have softer suspension all round.

The tightness is usually due to retained pressure and (theoretically) the way to get rid of it is to run the car in 'Soft' mode for 30 seconds plus, with height control at 'Low' Don't touch steering wheel while waiting or it will restore pressure again.
Failing that, it's got to be a chisel with a lump hammer. That won't bend the bracket significantly.

I have never been able to completely discharge the centre sphere so you will always loose some fluid. I'm with techmanagain, what it needs is a shock to break the seal, a nice sharp chisel in to the welded seam around the middle, in an anticlockwise direction. Its usually my last resort but it always works.

You will still have to use a little force to unscrew it if it has any pressure in it, although if you crack it, then leave it until the fluid has run out it will unscrew easily by hand When fitting the new one it is essential that you only fit it hand tight.

Peter.N.

Hi Techman,

I don't know about that. The time before last I removed the rear centre sphere for what seemed like the first time in the cars life. I could get a hold of the sphere no problem with my Pleiades tool. Shocking the handle of the tool with a hammer didn't work because the 'bounce' in the bracket simply absorbed the hammer blows like a bit of rubber. Then I thought I'd go for the constant pressure approach but all that did was buckle the bracket. I stopped before ripping it off completely. Its only made from thin gauge steel which is probably even thinner once a bit of corrosion has set in.

Providing the opposite, resisting force by grabbing a hold of the valve block with something (doesn't have to be stilsons) is the only solution I've found to work even when depressurised.

Steve,
Don't be put off by my description of 18" stilsons. They're the only ones I have. I'm sure smaller ones will work just as well. You just might have to extend the handle with a bit of pipe or something. You'll run out of muscle strength before you are in any danger of damaging the stilsons.

cheers

noz

Hi Noz,

I'm not put off by Stilies but then I did work for Record tools for a while. Excellent tool for some jobs.

Steve.

Yes the stilsons did the job. Not brutal but just as a steadying opposite force. As I suspected once I'd cracked the seal it came off easily and I now have more movement at the rear.

I was going to take piccies as it was a nice afternoon but SWMBO rang for a lift from my daughters so I had to abandon!

I might as well do the wheel spheres now and at least I'll know the history of all the spheres.I think I'll do the fronts next. There doesn't appear to be a lot of room around them. Is there a knack or do they just come straight off?

With no pressure in the system, it is a 10 minute-a-side job, IIRC.

Thanks techman.