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> Spheres And Hydraflush - Which Comes First?
SamWise1972
Posted: January 19, 2008 03:06 pm


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I don't yet know what the ride of my XM will be like, but at 120k, it's safe to assume the suspension's going to want some love over the next 12 months. Since I'm not buying it to have a car that rides like all other cars, I'm going to be keen to give it that love. It seems logical to me that you'd hydraflush it (for several thousand miles, by the sound of things), and THEN renew the spheres. Am I right? (I realise that a sudden failure of a sphere would throw the whole plan for a loop)


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1966 Triumph Herald convertible with big valve twin carb Spitfire head
1973 Bedford Panorama Elite II Bus
1994 2.1td Citroen XM hatch - maroon!
1992 Citroen AX 1.4D

Comin' straight outta Southampton
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Peter.N.
Posted: January 19, 2008 05:23 pm


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Hi Sam

If the spheres have never been changed, it will transform it. Then 'soft ride' is primaraly the the work of the centre spheres ( assuming yours is Hydractive, 'sport-normal' switch on centre console). I would flush the system before you fit the spheres, although they dont hold very much fluid at rest if they are working, so I suppose its not that important. Assuming it doesn't have anti sink, and I havn't met one that does yet, it will have six suspension spheres (if hydractive) + the accumulator sphere.

GSF are as cheap as anyone and there are some good sphere removing tools on Ebay for not to much money.

Peter.N.


--------------------
Used to have:

'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
Located in Charmouth, Dorset. U.K.

Blower transistors MJ 11015
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steelcityuk
Posted: January 19, 2008 05:38 pm


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Aren't all UK car Hydractive? I'm not sure.

Steve.


--------------------
XM 2.1 SED - RP5876
Prius T Spirit
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MB A170 CDi
XM S2 2.0 TCT LPG Exclusive Hatch RP6654
C5 HDi110 Exclusive
XM S2 2.5 VSX Estate
XM S2 2.1 VSX Hatch
Xantia HDi Exclusive
405 GTX TD
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Peter.N.
Posted: January 19, 2008 05:50 pm


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I don't know Steve, I thought they were but I have heard mention of non hydractive, but I have never seen one. They also made a non turbo, which I think was a 2.2, but I have never seen one in this country.

I have just looked in Mr Haynes book and that does seem to suggest that they were all hydractive, but I thought I had seen reference to 'non active spheres' maybe an error.

Peter.N.


--------------------
Used to have:

'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
Located in Charmouth, Dorset. U.K.

Blower transistors MJ 11015
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robmc52
Posted: January 19, 2008 06:26 pm


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QUOTE (Peter.N. @ Jan 19 2008, 16:23 PM)


GSF are as cheap as anyone and there are some good sphere removing tools on Ebay for not to much money.

Peter.N.

Hi Peter
Which sphere taker offer would be the most useful overall do you think? There's 2 types on ebay at the moment, one with a central lug that a half inch socket fits into or one with a bolt that screws in from the side. Would one be better than the other for getting into restricted spaces for example?

Bob


--------------------
1993 XM 2.1 td estate, it's green.
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xmexclusive
Posted: January 19, 2008 11:48 pm


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Hi Bob

The ebay sphere tools that I have seen recently are a fixed steel band with a single bolt that tightens onto the sphere. This works if you can get the bolt tight enough but will often slide around removing paint or rust from the sphere. One sort is for undoing the Accumulator sphere from above. The other type is for levering from the side. To get at all the cars spheres easily you need one of each. I tried one of the lever ones but have gone back to using a Pliades lever that clamps the steel band tight around the sphere. A lot more expensive but a quality tool.

Regards

XMexc


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An interest in 2.5TD's.
Location: Hampshire, U.K.
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aengus-xmv6
Posted: January 20, 2008 12:03 am


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bear in mind that if you have mod'd spheres with a top-up valve fitted, that the remover that fits over the top like a hat with the square drive on the top will not fit the sphere - as the valve will be in the way (like the accum that's currently on my v6).

rgds
Dave


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G-reg XM V6SEi saloon, light blue, RP4764
Plus a load of S1 V6 spares in the garage!

Previous cits:
XM 2.0SEi auto (H)
XM 2.0SEi manual (J)
BX19 GTi


Essex
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Peter.N.
Posted: January 20, 2008 12:10 am


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Oh well there you are then, shows how much I know wacko.gif I use a home made chain wrench made from a section of double motorcycle chain, but thought the ebay ones a good idea.

Peter.N.


--------------------
Used to have:

'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
Located in Charmouth, Dorset. U.K.

Blower transistors MJ 11015
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jorgy9
Posted: January 20, 2008 03:01 am


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QUOTE (Peter.N. @ Jan 19 2008, 16:50 PM)
I don't know Steve, I thought they were but I have heard mention of non hydractive, but I have never seen one. They also made a non turbo, which I think was a 2.2, but I have never seen one in this country.

I have just looked in Mr Haynes book and that does seem to suggest that they were all hydractive, but I thought I had seen reference to 'non active spheres' maybe an error.

Peter.N.

Yes, as below:

user posted image

Does 0-60 in 15.5" and reaches 176km/h, about 110mph. Does not look really more frugal than the turbo'd one (last 3 lines).

This post has been edited by jorgy9 on January 20, 2008 03:04 am


--------------------
XM '94 V6 12v, manual, Diravi - Mark "1.5" in black - bought: 138,000mls now: 167,000 miles
Axel '87 1.1 - real '70s Citroen handling (nope, it's not hydraulic!)


My Flickr page I ...and II


Is your XM as soft as it should be ??

...Well, again: is it ???

Mine is not as good...but quite near!


>>How I repaired my suspension part I ...and part II<<


Kilmarnock -18mls south-west of Glasgow-
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jorgy9
Posted: January 20, 2008 03:07 am


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QUOTE (SamWise1972 @ Jan 19 2008, 14:06 PM)
I don't yet know what the ride of my XM will be like, but at 120k, it's safe to assume the suspension's going to want some love over the next 12 months. Since I'm not buying it to have a car that rides like all other cars, I'm going to be keen to give it that love. It seems logical to me that you'd hydraflush it (for several thousand miles, by the sound of things), and THEN renew the spheres. Am I right? (I realise that a sudden failure of a sphere would throw the whole plan for a loop)

Not sure the sequence would make a difference (are u thinking of the spheres' diaphragm?) Especially if u find ur car's spheres are dead, I'd change them immediately, it might save your strut tops from going through the bonnet.

cheers
George


--------------------
XM '94 V6 12v, manual, Diravi - Mark "1.5" in black - bought: 138,000mls now: 167,000 miles
Axel '87 1.1 - real '70s Citroen handling (nope, it's not hydraulic!)


My Flickr page I ...and II


Is your XM as soft as it should be ??

...Well, again: is it ???

Mine is not as good...but quite near!


>>How I repaired my suspension part I ...and part II<<


Kilmarnock -18mls south-west of Glasgow-
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Peter.N.
Posted: January 20, 2008 09:41 am


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Non turbo's very rarely are more economical. For a given throttle opening/power output the turbo is running on a weaker mixture and the final drive ratio is usually lower so the engine is turning more slowly for a given speed.

Isn't it strange how everything is metric except the wheel diameter, which is still in inches, even in French!

Peter.N.


--------------------
Used to have:

'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
Located in Charmouth, Dorset. U.K.

Blower transistors MJ 11015
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SamWise1972
Posted: January 20, 2008 10:31 am


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I don't know whether they are or not - won't see the car til Thursday. I'm just wondering whether it matters. Sounds like doing both at once is the ticket though - don't want to knacker my strut tops.


--------------------
1966 Triumph Herald convertible with big valve twin carb Spitfire head
1973 Bedford Panorama Elite II Bus
1994 2.1td Citroen XM hatch - maroon!
1992 Citroen AX 1.4D

Comin' straight outta Southampton
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robmc52
Posted: January 20, 2008 04:08 pm


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QUOTE (xmexclusive @ Jan 19 2008, 22:48 PM)
Hi Bob

The ebay sphere tools that I have seen recently are a fixed steel band with a single bolt that tightens onto the sphere. This works if you can get the bolt tight enough but will often slide around removing paint or rust from the sphere. One sort is for undoing the Accumulator sphere from above. The other type is for levering from the side. To get at all the cars spheres easily you need one of each. I tried one of the lever ones but have gone back to using a Pliades lever that clamps the steel band tight around the sphere. A lot more expensive but a quality tool.

Regards

XMexc

Hi Xmexc
How much is the Pliades tool? Don't mind spending good money on decent kit.

Bob


--------------------
1993 XM 2.1 td estate, it's green.
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Andmcit
Posted: January 20, 2008 07:09 pm


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I think you're looking around £30-40 and it's rarely if ever beaten by a stubborn sphere.
I don't rate those single point of contact one's seen on ebay. By all means buy a proper
one on ebay - they do pop up now and then.

Andrew
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