Non-starting Xm And Now Immobiliser Trouble

[Garmar]

Hello all,

Any shared experiences or helpful guidance would be really appreciated.

My recently acquired 2.0 Turbo had been running fine (new turbo just fitted -- what a cost!) until a puddle splash or damp drizzle, it seems, caused the engine to fail to start at the next turn of the ignition.

Limited under-the-bonnet knowledge informed me to tow it home and spray all electrical parts with WD40. Still no start, not after a week of drying out.

Weak battery maybe? A kick start from a running Galaxy motor wouldn't do it, so a full recharge seemed the way forward. I disconnected the battery completely (realising now that this is not best practise) and fear the immobiliser has been set out of line as a consequence.

A local garage looked at it and said they couldn't negotiate the immobiliser lock down - and that a dealer was needed to reprogram the system.

Any thoughts - I've already shelled out £000s for the moments of pleasure driving it has given me. I'd be really grateful for the advice.

Thanks, Gary

[demag]

Hi Gary,

Welcome to the club. I should imagine amongst us we ought to be able to get you started again.

When you switch on the ignition you should be able to enter your code on the keypad and get the green light on. Yes?

What precisely are the symptoms, does the engine turn over or attempt to start or does nothing at all happen?

[Garmar]

Hello Dave,

Yes. I can enter the code and the green light does come on. The motor turns, thinks about starting, but won't do it.

I turned the alarm key under the bonnet at the time of removing the battery. Yesterday the lights would flash for 20 seconds each time I opened a door, after reconnecting battery. Today, however, this does not happen.

[demag]

How do you open the door, with a key or plip?

[Garmar]

A key. The buttons on the key aren't working, so it's used manually.

[jamieb]

I don't know about alarms but it doesn't sound like the immobiliser which emits a high pitched beep if you try to start the car before the code's been entered.

[bigjohnh]

Gary

I am reasonably confident that if the immobiliser pad goes green than that is not the problem.

Do the normal checks (or get your mechanic to) that any mechanic should do, Spark, check injectors are firing, and fuel pressure. If you've got a spark then the immobiliser is not the problem and neither is the ECU they either work or they don't.

My car was recently immobilised and the mechanic took ages (LIKE 6 WEEKS) to work out that the fuel filter was blocked and the fuel pump had failed, all fixed with less that 50 quids worth of second hand pump and a new filter. Don't ask me about labour cost though GRRRRR. My symptoms were similar, it would try to start and then cut out, not enough fuel pressure at the injectors.

Best of luck

John

[Gav]

the alarm key under the bonnet is only to turn off the siren. it doesnt disengage the whole alarm, hence the flashing lights when you open the door.

if you can get green light on the key code you can then disengage the alarm permanently by holding the alarm button on the dash for a couple of seconds. (this is from memory so please correct if needed).

just to eliminate areas to check, if you get a green light on the key pad presumably the immobilser is not a problem.

given what you say about the garages comments on lock-down you have to wonder what these guys do for a living. heaven forbid entering a code in the keypad might do the trick!

This post has been edited by Gav on November 30, 2007 09:06 am

[steelcityuk]

It's a long shot but have you tried pressing the fuel cut off switch (I'm assuming it has one), it should be a squarish shaped lump with a rubber top that can be pressed down. It's unlikely to be the problem if the car kept running until turned off but it's worth a try.

Steve.

[jorgy9]

What about the ignition module? Although they usually fail gradually.

cheers
G

[demag]

You say it was wet when it stopped. For me I would think the culprit is electrical and maybe something to do with the front fusebox or relays near the battery. But I don't know if any of these are linked to the ignition. They seem to be linked to everything else on an Xm so there's a good chance.

I don't think your keypad is the problem as you are getting the green light. And using the key to open the door manually by passes the alarm I think. In other words the alarm is only set by using the plip to lock the car. And I think the alarm and imobilizer are two different beasts anyway. I think the alarm just makes a row if someone gets in, the keypad sets the imobilizer.

[DerekW]

I assume the engine is turning over on the starter? I would suggest first move is to take out a sparking plug, lay it on the engine, crank the engine and see if there's a spark. If that's OK then check the submerged fuel pump (electrical, under the rear seat squab) is working. Both of these are easy checks and may well lead you to the source of the problem - either directly or indirectly.

Derek

[onthecut]

Hi Garmar.

Fuel lift pump definitely worth checking. Lift RH rear seat base, prise out the big black grommet and the top of the pump assembly is right there. If memory serves, as you turn the ignition on, you should hear it run; if not, then certainly when you crank the engine.

Mike.

[Garmar]

Thanks for all the input everyone.

It sounds, from what I'm reading and what the green light on the key pad is telling me, that the immobiliser is not my problem and, therefore, I do not need a reprogramming of the car's computer management. That's quite a relief to me.

Your responses have jogged my thoughts, what the mechanic (who pointed towards the immobiliser shut down) did say was that no fuel was being sent either to or from the fuel pump (I'm not sure which) or that no fuel was being fed into the ...? (Forgive me, I haven't a clue what he said next! But I'm learning).

This seems to point to some of the issues outlined above -- I'm onto it, tomorrow morning. Stay with me, guys.

[dean]

Hi, and welcome

If there is no fuel the first thing to check is the fuel pump relay and fuse.
I think the relay is above the n/s headlamp. Good luck

Dean