Front Suspension Balljoint Removal, How to undo easily without removing hub

[Assich]

I won't go into the details of the full job as the Citroen and Haynes Manuals cover the subject well. The problem with removing the balljoint is that it rusts in to place on the threads and when using an impact driver it seems the hub itself moves and thus the full force of the impact driver is not applied to "unscrewing" the balljoint. In the past I have removed the hub to get the balljoint unscrewed. This time I unscrewed it with the hub on the car using the special balljoint socket, a slogging spanner and the top pole out of an akro prop. No doubt any pole of 6ft length of the right diameter will do though such as a scaffold pole. Even with a 6ft pole it did need a good "pull" to undo the balljoint. You could here a crack as the joint initially unscrewed. Even when slackened a little using the akro you will probably find it is still quite stiff to unsrew from the hub completely. I used my air impact driver. Oh and also I have always found this balljoint particulary tough to break, this time I used a wedge balljoint breaker with a shaft for my air chisel and it worked a treat.

This is how I set everything up to unscrew the balljoint.



Above image shows the slogging spanner, special balljoint socket, nut and washer.

I removed the lower arm completely to make life easier and as it happened it made attaching a chain to stop the hub "pulling" outward from the car when undoing the balljoint on the drivers side and when tightening the new balljoint on the passanger side.

I attached the chain to the bolt hole for the front lower arm and to the bottom of the caliper using 8mm bolts. Chain had 5.5mm diameter links and took the forces applied. Definitely advise using a repair washer to protect the caliper slide.
Photo below of it attached to the passanger side.



Attach the special socket with the slogging spanner on it to the balljoint using the large washer and the balljoint nut. There are only a few threads showing with the socket and spanner in place and I used my air impact wrench to tighten the nut up so it dished the washer into the spanner. A normal ring spanner I suspect would be too deep to leave any threads for the nut. You will see I hadn't removed the the lower arm yet on this side. Photo below.



The top half akro pole was a good fit on the slogging spanner even with not putting it fully on for the passanger side due to the bottom of the brake disc being in the way. A good pull on the akro and "crack" the balljoint starts to undo.

[techmanagain]

Now that's what I call a useful posting !

[wirdy]

That chain idea is excellent! I'll use that next time.

I resorted to a monster air impact wrench after much swearing trying to undo them with a poxy cordless impact wrench that just made lots of noise

[onthecut]

Hi all.

My turn today ! Cracking post Assich --- might I highlight the value of securing the special tool into the cut outs, as you suggest. I omitted this initially and it's just a waste of time as you can't risk applying the force needed. I gave mine some heat to help it on its way (having shielded the shaft gaiter). With another pair of hands, I used a deep 35mm on the special tool and then a 3 foot bar was sufficient. I held the socket square, they pulled. Could have been worse -- could have been better !!!!!!!!.

Mike.

[citroenxm]

I've a bottom ball joint out on my 12v Auto.. as it has a slight vibration under acceleration... so need to sort a spanner large enough to go on the speacial socket that I already posses..

I'm keeping my fingers crossed and look forward to trying it out..

Rgds
citroenxm

[onthecut]

Hi Citroenxm.

If it's the same special socket I've got, it's 35mm drive. If you don't mind stumping up the postage, you're welcome to borrow the socket I bought to use on it.

Mike.

[dean]

Hi all

Done my bottom joints last night, taking the lower arm off made life a lot easyer.
It wasn't a pretty thing to watch, as i substituted chain for rope and a scaffold tube for a shovel and a big adjustable, but mainly due to the fact that my car has no rust they came off a treat.
Thanks assich

Dean

[jorgy9]

What state did you find them in Dean? When was the car last MOTd? I do wonder whether MOT stations randomly fail to find worn balljoints because many like to put the suspension in full height before checking for wear?

cheers
George

[robertmnorton]

Acouple of spot welds of socket to balljoint nut and a long lever is what i used!

[dean]

on hard lock if i put my foot down there would be one clunk as the car took off, and they never picked it up on the M.O.T. when i got them off the joint would fall staight under the tension from the rubber boot so it was fairly limp.

Dean

[jorgy9]

Ok thanks!
G

[xmaddict]

some might disagree with me but please dont apply heat to cast parts as it effects the structure in a microscopic way........i had a ball joint removed (screw up type) on a mazda 626 and the garage used a oxycetylene to heat up the joint as it was tight. the result was a snapped control arm at the new ball joint while doing 40mph! its scarey.........when i informed the garage they refused liability so i got in touch with the insurance and they took the car away....it came back a week later saying there was metal fatigue caused by severe heat that at some time been applied to the control arm. as i watched said garage fit the ball joint and the mechanic admitted useing the heat case was closed and i was compensated with a complete overhaul of both sides of the car + bodywork damage free of charge. but the mechanic did say he has always done this and never has he seen or heard of this happenening in all his career. i said "ever heard of the phrase ""there's a first time for everything"".