Xm Estate Suspension Troubles

thanks chaps that clarifies that one,i bought this car out of slight nostalgia,as i learned to drive in a cx20 7 seater

I can't pretend I have found 'a way'. But I had no fluid loss when replacing the centre spheres on my former XM . Just followed the instructions in the Haynes manual and the advice given here:
http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/suspen...msuspension.php

Hi all,

The centre sphere itself has no dampers in the neck like the wheel spheres but it still does have dampers. They are located in the valve block itself. If you remove the two 10mm pipes and look into the holes where the pipe ends screw in you can see the same kind of damper as the road wheels have at the bottom of the hole. The dampers have larger orifices than the wheel dampers so yes they will have a greater effect if its the only one you can afford to change.

Cheers

noz

My word, that manual's a bit more comprehensive than the Haynes version! I have no trouble in depressurising the main system, just the centre spheres. I thought depressurising it in soft mode was the answer, but apparantly not! Thanks for the info.

Peter.N.

im having a tricky time getting my rear spheres slackened any sugestions,tried pressurised and depressurised any suggestions

Try to clean as much rust and gunge as possible from the area around the joint face, then give it a good spray with penetrating oil. Don't use WD40 which is a water displacing fluid, not a penetrating oil. In emergency you could use a mix of engine oil and paraffin. Leave it to soak with occasional re-applications. I then favour the Willie Whitelaw treatment - a short, sharp shock. Some use a cold chisel on the large diameter of the sphere and clump it with a club hammer. I prefer to put a large jubilee type clip around the large diameter, do it up tight and then use a drift and the aforementioned club hammer on the screw housing.

Derek

I would second Derek's use of the chisel, its often the only way, once it moves you can undo it with the wrench or even by hand if its completely depressurised. My method isn't as genteel as Dereks though!

Peter.N.

Pleiades make a special tool for the job, - as do Facom, but not so good - with an 18 inch (45 cm) solid bar to belt with a lump hammer
What hours of sweat, blood and tears I have saved over the years since I bouight it.! (Originally for my CXs.)

Even using the quick, sharp, blow, requires the spheres to be under full system pressure or pipe-damage may occur. As soon as it is 'just' free, release the pressure and use hand turning only. Tighten by hand only. No more is necessary.

whats the correct ride height? to remove as when its at it low level even under pressure the sphere locating unit moves about but it doesnt seem to at higher levels

Car must be set to highest setting to do that loosening technique, preferably with the engine ticking over in case the anti-sink is not working. Do not attempt to do more that breaking the first tightness and no nothing unless the car is on a ramp or solid support. Don't get underneath otherwise !!!

One other small tip. When you come to fit the new sphere/s, put the square section rubber seal into the housing, not on the sphere. If you put it on the sphere there's always a chance you'll diplace it and cause a leak.

Derek

problem solved all changed the outer 2 in particular were horrendously rusty and it now rides with out bouncing
thanks to all

Interesting point on the link about bleeding the brake valve and ABS block. Never done that or seen it suggested.

Steve.