S1 Interior To S2?, Will it fit

Morning guys,

I have a fair idea that the seats from an S1 would fit an S2 without modification, is this correct?
What about the door cards, did they change at all? I really can't remember....

Cheers!

Ciarán.

I'm looking to do this as well. Want to move an SEi black leather interior to the Series 2 exclusive I have now.
There is a problem with how to remove and replace the seatbelt pretensioners onto the older seats. Has anyone done this.

Someone will probably tell me i'm wrong but the rear door cards looked as though they are the same. Front ones look different though.

Has anyone manager to repair the door pocket flaps? Must take a knack to get those metal springs back on again!

Cheers
Steve

Hi Archman. Ciaran (again) and All

I will take the door cards first.
Mk1 and Mk2 door cards both have the same back fixings to the car doors so they can be exchanged. I would advise against a direct swap as it looks crap because the dash end is triangular on a Mk1 and rounded on a Mk2. The outline of these shapes is moulded into the front of the door cards and it shows badly when a Mk2 is fitted with Mk1 door cards. I have sucessfully modified Mk1 infill panel leather, glove box tops and wood trim to fit in a formerly cloth set of Mk2 door cards.

Seats
Front seats swap mechanically as they have the same fixings but different electrical connections. I will come back to the detail and problems.
Rear seats have a few variations. Split vs full bench and all XM's have the fixings for split seats so this is not a problem. You can swap back seat cushions between any XM. Seat backs are a different matter as estate and car seat backs (and side bolsters) are different widths so you cannot swap seat backs between cars and estates. If recovering a set of leather from a scrap car do not forget the back seat side bolsters, the centre arm rest and its mechanical height adjuster, centre console skirt, electric control switch and wiring if fitted.
Early Mk1 front seats have no seat belt tensioners and fitting them to a Mk2 or a later Mk1 technically invalidates the insurance unless the mod is declared. I understand that it is possible to recover and fit Mk2 tensioners to Mk1 seat frames but have not done this myself as I tend to just put leather on Mk2 frames. This can generate a further problem as the base part of early Mk1 seat back covers are narrower than the later ones. Later Mk1 seats have mechanical seat belt tensioners as opposed to the explosive Mk2 ones. To fit these to a Mk2 just requires the wiring connector sorted out. Be aware that some of the bottom of the range XM's did not have electrically adjustable front seats. Finally it is the drivers seat that normally gets all the wear on the seat cover and the edges of the cushions. Passenger front seat backs can be fitted on a drivers seat but the seat bases are handed and not interchangable. This is a pity as the drivers seat base usually has the most wear on the cushion next the door. If looking to make up a good set of leather by replacing a worn drivers seat there are at least 3 grades of black leather used and the differences only notice when you put then along side of each other. Grey with suade and tan leather were also used.
Finally Mk1 and Mk2 seat heaters have different wiring.

Regards

XMexc

Hi Xmexc,

Many thanks for that detailed explanation of the pitfalls of this process!

As it stands, I have won an S1 (H reg) leather interior on ebay, and am trying to sort out delivery.

I had intended on fitting it to my '95 S2 which currently has velour electric seats. The doorcards I would like, but I'm not toooo bothered about... is it fiddly trying to transplant the material to the S2 cards?

My main worry is the seats really. Is it hard / time consuming to tranplant the leather to the S2 frames? I think I may do that instead of fidling around with seatbelt tensioners etc.
I can't really afford to have the car out of action (with seats removed), so will need to be careful with regards to time constaints etc.

As usual this is turning out to be more complicated than anticipated!

Hi Ciaran

Sorry to take a little while but I have been finding and experimenting with the different types of XM front seats. I am now satisfied that it is easily possible to swap the seat pretensioners and wiring fittings from a Mk2 seat to the early Mk1 seat. With the later Mk1 seat all that needs to be swapped is the wiring. I will put a help note together.

Regards

XMexc

Hi XmExc,

Sorry, I didn't see your last post before now.
I have finally managed to get my Fleabay leather interior transported over from England, so may have a go at fitting it this weekend. I have been hearing people say its possible to move the pretensioners over, which is encouraging!

The guy basically included half the car with the seats, it has consoles, most of the dash, the entire carpet, all lights, etc.

With regards to the carpet, I'm not sure if I'll fit it or not (its back, and my existing one is grey), is it a lot of work to get it all out?

So if the seatbelt tensioners go on Ok, my only remaining concern is the wiring really... should be interesting!

May try and take pics as I go to see if they would be helpful to anyone else... though it probably is a pretty simple job...

Cheers.

Ciarán.

Hi Ciaran

The XM carpet is put in before anything else, heater box, centre console etc. Swapping the carpet is hard work though it may be easier if your supplier cut the difficult corners off to get it out the donor car. With the seats if you unbolt and exchange the bases you will have swapped the wiring (both Mk1 and Mk2 seat motors have the same electrical plugs) and any pretensioners. You need a battery and fly leads to run the seat frame back and forward to get at all the bolts. Start with the passenger seat as it is easier to do the swap and you can still use the car with the seat missing. Having learnt on that one the drivers seat should go much quicker.

Regards

XMexc

Hi XmExc,

All the stuff is currently in a mate's warehouse down the road, will retrieve it tomorrow and have a good look at the carpet etc. If it involves the removal of the heater matrix etc I may not bother. Its a black carpet and would look nice with the seats, but TBH my existing dark grey one is quite nice, and in very good condition.

Re the seats, I didn't realise the bases seperated from the actual seat itself, that's very helpful with regards to the tensioners, wiring, etc.
I was thinking of doing as you suggest, and tackling the passenger seat first, at least the car would still be usable if I ran into any problems, as you say.

I'm sure I can borrow the battery out of the Xantia and unbolt the seat base in the house. Is there anything special about the wiring, or is it just a simple 2 wire power supply going to the seat? I must admit I haven't looked at one before.

Many thanks for all your help, really appreciate it. Should be interesting to see how it all turns out


Cheers.

Ciarán.

Hi Ciaran

The front seat frames seem to be common to all XM's so swapping the frame bases works ok. It is easiest if you start on the replacement seats. Turn the seat upside down so you can work on the base. You need to remove the plastic side trims (usually Torx20 screws) and unplug the seat switches and motors. The frame base is held in place by 6 Torx40 screws. Some of these are accessible but others are hidden by the fore & aft rails. This is where you need the fly leads wth croc clips battery end and a spade connector the other. The movement motors have just 2 terminals so you swap the wires for change of direction. The spade connectors are a sod to take back off the terminals unless you squash flat the little latching tabs in the centre of the connectors. You will find that some of the Torx screws can only be reached through slots in the fore & aft rails. I fix one battery clip and dab the other to drive the rails to the right spot. With the Mk1 base and wiring removed you are ready to fit the recovered Mk2 base, wiring and plastic trims. You will need a few small cable ties to refix the wiring.
The drivers seat is very similar except that the base has a third motor and gubbins for height adjustment. This flaps out of the way to get at some of the base fixing screws but there is only one intermediate rail position where this works so it is a case of shunt the rails with the fly leads to find the right spot.
Hope it all goes well.
Let me know if you still want the leather Mk2 front door trims.

Regards

XMexc

Hi again,

Thanks for that post, with it under my belt, I decided to have a go at it this afternoon.

Removing the base from the S1 seat went fine, no problems there, just used a battery charger and some croc clips to move the rails back and forth as you said.

Hit a snag when attempting to remove the S2 seat base. The torx screws on one side are incredibly tight, to the point where two of them now have hopelessly rounded heads and I can't get them out.
No problem I thought, removed the seatbelt tensioner from the S2 base, and fitted it to the S1 one, all I had to do was bend a wee metal tab to make it fit.
Got the S1 base back onto the leather seat fine, and everything was going swimmingly... went out to fit it into the car, then realised that the wiring connectors are completely different. S2 is 4 pins, S1 is 3....

So I'm now left wondering how to proceed. I guess if I knew what the wiring differences were, I could cut the 4 pin connector off the S2 base and splice it into the S1 one...
Either that, or, I guess I could remove the motors and entire wiring loom, and swap the entire gubbins over. It looks like the motors 'could' unbolt easily enough (I currently have both seats sitting upside down on the living room floor... aren't I the popular one! ).

Decisions decisions

Hi Ciaran

Your passenger seats have 2 motors, the one for the seat back has a red 2 contact plug on the side frame, the one for the for/aft in the centre of the seat base has a yellow 2 contact plug on the side of the motor. These should be identical for both Mk1 and Mk2 seats. Remove the Mk1 loom and replace it with the Mk2 one. You will then be able to connect up in your Mk2 without cutting or splicing any cables.
The drivers seat just has an extra motor near the front of the seat and this has a third white 2 contact plug.

Regards

XMexc

Hi XMexe
If you have a spare set of S2 leather door cards that aren't taken then I'd be interested.

If the rain holds off, then I must have a look at my pre-tensioners. Do they have a electrical connection?
Maybe I should look at swapping over the pretensioner and the loom. This would have the advantage of minimising mechanical problems and my swearing!

Cheers
Steve

Hi XmExc,

Have done just that
I was sitting staring at both seats, and realised the motor connections etc were identical, I don't know why I ever contemplated moving motors / cutting wires!

Any idea why they changed the loom - car connector from 3 pins to 4, or is it just part of the old 'never build two alike' motto?

The passenger seat is all ready to go in in the morning. Trust me to turn the simplest of tasks into an all day affair!

Cheers again.

Ciarán.

Hi Ciaran

Pleased with your sucess. The changed under seat wiring was to suit Mk2 heated seats which use an extra 5 pins in the big black socket. Will contact you again about the door cards when I get them out of the SORN car.

Regards

XMexc

Hi Archman 1

Sorry Steve I missed seeing your posts on this up till now. I promised Ciaran first refusal on the pair of front door cards a little while ago. They are not true Mk2 leather but were originally Mk2 cloth that I fitted Modified Mk1 leather/wood trim to.
You asked about door glove box tops. There seems to have been a change in position of the plastic hinge between Mk1's and Mk2's so the lids are not interchangable. If you change them the springs will not fit and work. On my modified door cards I had to change the whole glove box to get the leather lids fitted.
Where abouts are you? Much of this is easier to sort/explain with bits/cars to look at. With Ciaran so far away that was not an option.

Regards

XMexc