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> Subframe Corrosion
techmanagain
Posted: June 22, 2007 08:14 pm


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Have a care! Subframes differ between models sometimes, so don't go buying a frame or dismantling yours until you know its going to fit.


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.Peugeot 306 1.8 Petrol Automatic Hatchback. Now for sale.
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xmexclusive
Posted: June 22, 2007 11:13 pm


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Hi Techmanagain

Do you know if all 2.5TD subframes are the same?

Regards

XMexc


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Location: Hampshire, U.K.
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Zaphod
Posted: July 01, 2007 11:12 am


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My S1 subframe is in a very similar way, or it was!. I do have one small advantage when dealing with this sort of thing.. Dad has a 4 post lift in his barn!

Stewart


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Of all the things I have lost I think I miss my mind the most

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techmanagain
Posted: July 01, 2007 01:07 pm


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Simple answer to your question re subframes is that there are 10 different! If you can define your requirement by model and RP number of the one you wish to replace, I may be able to suggest where to look for a suitable replacement.


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Xantia 2 litre HDi Saloon X reg 1999
.Peugeot 306 1.8 Petrol Automatic Hatchback. Now for sale.
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Andmcit
Posted: July 01, 2007 01:28 pm


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I can't get the new version of Citroen's PR.net running a 100% on my AppleMac to determine
what the story is with the front subframes - I can't read their 'picture' files without some crap
PC only plugin - nobody at Citroen has ever heard of Jpegs, Gifs or Pdf's... mad.gif

http://service.citroen.com/

What exactly are the primary differences? From what I can see it's the pivot turret mounting
for the swivel gearchange on a manual box car. I can take some piccies of a v6 and a 2.0i
subframe off the car to show if there are any obvious changes though.

Andrew
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demag
Posted: July 02, 2007 11:36 pm


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Mike did you get any further on this?

Do I remember someone telling me years ago you can't weld subframes for the mot? I hope not as mine is due at the end of this month.

If you get any plates cut, make sure you get about half a dozen you could make a killing selling them!

I might put the plastic cover back on for the mot. rolleyes.gif


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Dave.

To flush, or not to flush? That is the question..............

2.5TD VSX Hatch
RP 6738

1992 BX16 TXS........Hasn't been well but getting better! Now has driveshaft gaiters and a dry bottom!

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onthecut
Posted: July 03, 2007 06:51 am


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Hi Dave.

Have done a not very neat repair; hate welding thin stuff ! Given that on mine the rest of the 'U' was OK, I decided the most important aspect was to stabilise the location of the bottom arm bracket. Joined the outer lower edges of the bracket with a length of something like 3 or 4 mm half inch angle, bent to reach and mate with sound metal fore and aft on the frame. Then, simply plated the bottom face.
I don't know whether you are supposedly able or not to repair subframes for the test; funnily enough, I'm thinking along your lines of keeping the cover in reserve and popping it back on come test time. Luckily, the new toy came with a new test, so have a while to ponder it.
I tend to find at my MOT place, they are generally bemused by the XM and I suspect will put the visible angle iron down to a Citroen quirk ! I take it that you have found yours to be similar to mine ? Clearly looks like an area that we all need to have an eye on.

Mike.


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XM 2.5VSX Estate RP 7289
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bobtee
Posted: October 27, 2007 10:59 pm


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The last time i welded a structural part of a car for m.o.t. preperation i.e. sub frame or chassis you needed to ensure a consistent seam of weld . In effect replace the damage caused by corrosion ,if you are a competent welder this will be as strong as the original piece.
The m.o.t. is a good check on the safety of your vehicle .
Its done to protect you and your fellow passengers and travellers .
Please dont bodge it because it can have dire consequences in an acident.
Sorry! best regards Bob biggrin.gif


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2.1 td xm hatchback 94/95reg n.
1.8i xantia petrol hatchback 93/94reg m
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onthecut
Posted: October 27, 2007 11:38 pm


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Hi Bobtee.

Hmmmm ?? So why can't I use my spot welder to do an MOT repair when that's how the piece was assembled to start with ? Additionally, depending exactly where I'm welding, I may be making stronger with a continuous weld a section that is actually designed to collapse. I just don't think the MOT is anything like as scientific on body repairs as 'they' would have us believe. Maybe if they actually came out and said all body repairs had to be OE panels, done to the OE technique, there might be somewhat more pressure on vehicle builders to prevent the things rusting away to start with.


Mike.


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XM 2.5VSX Estate RP 7185

XM 2.5VSX Estate RP 7289
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xmexclusive
Posted: October 28, 2007 09:04 pm


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Hi Onthecut

I have had a few MOT failures requiring welding over the years. In every case on retest each examiner has asked for the details and experience of the individual who carried out the weld repairs. I am not sure what would have happened if I had done the welding myself. I too will be keeping a 2.5 undertray handy.

Regards

XMexc


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An interest in 2.5TD's.
Location: Hampshire, U.K.
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onthecut
Posted: October 29, 2007 12:07 am


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Hi XMExc.

Strikes me some MOT testers really do get a bit above themselves. As far as I'm aware they have absolutely no remit to enquire about the provenance of work done. It either passes their examination on the spot -- or not. I've certainly seen plenty of welding done for MOT repair, by the garage that failed the vehicle, that is only made presentable by a copious application of 'MOT Paint' !

Mike.


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carlos774
Posted: October 29, 2007 12:39 am


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Hi all,
I can only add that when I was carrying out MOT's it didn't matter a jot who did the repair. The check was for structural integrity of the repair and nothing else. It's possible in some circumstances that spot welds would be sufficient. But, I'd have thought most cases of corrosion repair would benefit from a continuous seam weld whenever possible. Simply to impart strength to the repaired section where it is attatched to the older metal.
Just thought I'd put my two pence worth in....
Cheers, Carl


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Saab 9000 CSE 2.3 Turbo 1991
Peugeot 309 Diesel 1990
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