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> Arb Droplinks, Please tell me they're a doddle
demag
Posted: April 18, 2007 11:12 pm


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Is it much of a job to change them.

It looks like undo the two 8mm nuts and out they pop.


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Dave.

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noz
Posted: April 19, 2007 05:32 pm


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Hi demag,

In principal they are a doddle. For the top connection the thread is kept stationary by a flat on the collar so its not too bad. However, and there's always a however, the bottom one has no flat. The bolt is hollow and you're supposed to use a 6mm allen key to keep it still whilst you undo the nut. The rust is usually so bad that the allen key is not strong enough to keep it still and the internal corners get rounded off.

My best advice is to thouroughly wire brush the threads on both ends and soak in release oil for a week or two before the change. You could also try the good old blowtorch or oxy/acetylene to heat the nut up. You will damage the rubber boots but your throwing the old droplink away so it doesn't matter.

Its also better to have both front wheels hanging when you do it and the arb wil lfall away from the strut. If you do it with the opposite wheel on the ground then the arb will try to travel upwards. You then need a crowbar or lever to prise the strut and the arb apart to get the old droplink out and the new one in. Its not too bad either way.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

noz cool.gif

This post has been edited by noz on April 19, 2007 05:35 pm


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demag
Posted: April 19, 2007 09:47 pm


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Ok Thanks noz.

It's an XM, it could be a LOT worse! tongue.gif


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Dave.

To flush, or not to flush? That is the question..............

2.5TD VSX Hatch
RP 6738

1992 BX16 TXS........Hasn't been well but getting better! Now has driveshaft gaiters and a dry bottom!

Black Country, Staffs.
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wirdy
Posted: April 19, 2007 11:46 pm


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Noz's advice is sound, the bottom joint nearly always rotates and then you round off the allen insert shape trying to remove the nut over rusted threads.

I don't even bother trying the soaking in wd40 thing - The angle grinder is your best friend in this situation smile.gif the old link is being trashed anyway.


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Assich
Posted: April 20, 2007 07:52 am


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I agree angle grinder or nut splitter. Show no mercy.
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UFO
Posted: April 20, 2007 09:45 am


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Rust on an XM - how unusual. (Says he in Aus) wink.gif

I looked under Keith Theobold's XM over easter (national Citroen Meeting) and was surprised at how much rust can accumulate on such a young car.

I am up for the arb replacement at present on my XM and perhaps will have an easier time sans rust.


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Jan-hendrik
Posted: April 21, 2007 09:40 am


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Sorry to butt in and ask dumb questions, but what are the reasons for replacing the arb and the drop links (apart from accident damage?)


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UFO
Posted: April 21, 2007 11:31 am


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That annoying rattling noise and some vagueness from the front end of the car.


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Craig Keller

'09 C5 HDi Exclusive
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'87 BX TRi

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techmanagain
Posted: April 21, 2007 12:07 pm


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Based on my experiences, the first thing I would look for with those symptoms would be wear in the front suspension wishbone forward bushes. Excessive tyre wear is also symptomatic of that problem.


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Peter.N.
Posted: April 21, 2007 05:26 pm


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Perhaps I have just been lucky, but every case of front end rattle I have had, has been the drop links - except one, that was a track rod end - but I changed the drop link first mad.gif

Peter.N.


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