Leak From Header Tank + Binding Front Brakes., Two for one?

[combwork]

Hi,

Two quick queries. There's a water leak that appears to come from below the header tank. Local garage reckons I should obtain a new tank. I've checked the books (Haynes and Peter Russek) and there're no instructions on how to remove it which either means it's so blindingly obvious as to need no description, or so awkward as to be `Citroen Garage Only'. The car's a V6 series 2 auto with aircon (climate control) and Cruise control, and it looks as if at least one of the electronic control units will have to come out to give access to whatever is holding the tank in.

Second query is slight binding on the front brakes. Not tight, but enough to feel the drag when freewheeling to a halt. After a run without using the brakes, the discs are hot. The car stood for a long time off the road, so I'm wondering if maybe the parking brake is binding. If it's the calipers, do the front ones `float' (like on the BX) or are they fixed? If floating, I can remove, clean, grease and replace the pins (helps on a BX). If the caliper is fixed, would a cure be to take the pads off and wind the pistons in and let them reset , same as they would with new pads?

Happy Daze,

Jim.

[noz]

Hi Jim,

Looks like the header tank has 3 fixing points. 2 of them are plastic spigots moulded into the body of the tank. These appear to locate in holes on the inner wing and are push-fit. The other fixing is at the bottom right of the tank (looking at the engine bay whist standing in front of the car looking backwards. It looks like a single bolt which will screw into a captive nut on the inner wing.

The binding front brakes is a common issue. Here's the fix:

http://club-xm.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=15

Cheers

noz

[onthecut]

Hi Combwork.

Just a couple of additional points regarding the binding brakes. If you have no problem in the area Noz mentions, have a look and see if the pads are worn unevenly. I've had this on the majority of XMs I've had and the problem seems to be the little clip device fitted with the pin that clamps the caliper body down. (it holds the outer pad wear wire in place, which is pointless anyway, as the wire will be broken higher up !!) I now always leave this clip out, leaving the caliper freer to slide properly and evening up the pad wear.
Next thing is to check both the condition of the handbrake cables and their adjustment. They tend to crack roundabout where they enter the wheelwell and if they've got wet inside, may be seized, or partially so. Also make sure they're not over adjusted. As you mention, there is certainly nothing to lose by winding the piston back in -- and sticking new pads in while you're at it ! Good luck.

Mike.

[Andmcit]

Where the tank on my 24v S1 started leaking I had to remove the computer box with it's
ECU's to get access to the single bolt holding the tank. Mind you don't naff up the clipping
arrangement that holds the ECU box!

I've found the weather gets into the actual pivot on the caliper making the brakes bind
when the hanbrake action doesn't actually fully back off. You can try spinning the piston in
but the likelihood is the pivot arm that attaches to the end of the handbrake is seized.

Andrew

This post has been edited by Andmcit on January 28, 2007 07:27 pm

[combwork]

Thanks Everyone,

Noz, I remember reading about possible seized linkages before; just didn't remember it, so............. next weekend it will be time to play with the header tank and check the front brakes. The garage told me the header tank had a hole in it; is this likely? I'd have thought a pipe leak would be more likely............... Jim

[UFO]

Removal of the single torx headed bolt with use of an extension on the socket is relatively easy. Replacement is best done with the bolt in place and holding it firm with the torx socket and extension to guide it in. Some vaseline on the plastic lugs also helps to get the lugs into their rubber mountings - but we all knew that!