Powered by Invision Power Board

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register ) Resend Validation Email


  Reply to this topicStart new topicStart Poll

> Front Suspension Balljoint, Stuck Fast
Assich
Posted: September 16, 2007 12:14 pm


Super Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 239
Member No.: 671
Joined: March 12, 2007




Well I bought the special socket to fit the balljoint and a 3/4" Air Impact Wrench that goes to 425lbft and the balljoint just won't unscrew. I knocked the lip out that's supposed to stop it turning and even tried as much heat as I dare while still on the car. The socket teeth are just slowly eating their way round the balljoint flange. Does anyone have a good idea to try or do I just give up and do as I used to and strip the hub off for the local engineering workshop to remove it for me. mad.gif
PMEmail Poster
Top
Peter.N.
Posted: September 16, 2007 10:41 pm


Andre's Mate
******

Group: Members
Posts: 3414
Member No.: 78
Joined: August 31, 2004




I had to take the hub off mine and put it in the vice. I think that even with an impact wrench there is to much 'give' in it while still on the car. It needs to be mounted solidly to get the necessary shock to loosen it.

Peter.N.


--------------------
Used to have:

'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
Located in Charmouth, Dorset. U.K.

Blower transistors MJ 11015
PMEmail Poster
Top
Assich
Posted: September 17, 2007 07:45 am


Super Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 239
Member No.: 671
Joined: March 12, 2007




Yes, I think you're right Peter. I have had a good think though and have one last plan before going for the strip down option. I am going to get a ring spanner to fit the balljoint socket and cut off the other end so I can get it inside an akro prop tube. That will give me 6ft of leverage and to hold the hub still I will chain the caliper to the subframe.
PMEmail Poster
Top
onthecut
Posted: September 17, 2007 09:03 am


Double Chevron
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 971
Member No.: 336
Joined: March 10, 2006




Hi Assich.

I think I have to second Peter's advice. I've only had to do two and the first one taught me to bite the bullet at the outset and take the arm off to extract the joint. There is absolutely no substitute for having the arm securely held at an angle that lets you work at it safely while putting maximum grunt in ! Good luck with it.

Mike.



--------------------
XM 2.5VSX Estate RP 7185

XM 2.5VSX Estate RP 7289
PMEmail Poster
Top
noz
Posted: September 17, 2007 11:49 pm


Andre's Mate
******

Group: Members
Posts: 1673
Member No.: 12
Joined: November 22, 2003




Hi Assich,

The only way I got my last one out was to grip the joint in the vice and turn the hub with a scaffolding pole. That was after I'd heated the whole joint with oxy-acetylene until it was glowing red hot. The threads are put i with loctite and the rust sees to the rest.

Heres a picture I took of the offending article when I got it out eventually.

cheers

noz cool.gif

Attached Image


--------------------
'10 '59' C5 2.0 HDi Exclusive Tourer Metallic Grey
'97 'P' XM 2.5 TD VSX Saloon RP 6610 Blue
'97 'R' XM 2.5 TD Exclusive Saloon RP 7158 Silver
'88 CX 22TRS Croisette
Location: Avonbridge - Stirlingshire - Central Scotland
PMEmail PosterICQAOLYahoo
Top
Assich
Posted: September 24, 2007 08:00 am


Super Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 239
Member No.: 671
Joined: March 12, 2007




I got what's called a slogging spanner and with the 6' akro prop the balljoints unscrewed no problems. No heat required either. I took a few photos and will create a self help post of how to easily take the balljoints off while still on the car.
PMEmail Poster
Top
wirdy
Posted: September 26, 2007 10:51 pm


Double Chevron
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 561
Member No.: 411
Joined: July 26, 2006




QUOTE (noz @ Sep 17 2007, 22:49 PM)

Heres a picture I took of the offending article when I got it out eventually.

Wow! mine were pussy-cats to come off compared to those!

Must admit I decided not to loctite the new ones in. tongue.gif


--------------------
'99 'V' XM 2.0 CT VSX Auto Estate RP 8360 Green.
'97 'R' XM 2.0 CT VSX Auto Saloon RP 7480 Blue.
'96 'P' XM 2.0 16v Man Saloon RP 7176 Magenta.

Fife, Scotland.
PMEmail Poster
Top
Peter.N.
Posted: September 26, 2007 11:06 pm


Andre's Mate
******

Group: Members
Posts: 3414
Member No.: 78
Joined: August 31, 2004




Just looked at your photos Noz,...... had it been used down a salt mine?

Peter.N.


--------------------
Used to have:

'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
Located in Charmouth, Dorset. U.K.

Blower transistors MJ 11015
PMEmail Poster
Top
UFO
Posted: October 07, 2007 05:03 am


Super Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 323
Member No.: 319
Joined: February 06, 2006




I replaced the left balljoint on my car yesterday. Now of course I don't have the rust problems you guys have, but still it is a bugger of a job.

Getting the hub off was the well practiced routine. I had arranged to use a large vice at a friend's place up the road and it turns out he had also fashioned a removal tool from galvinised fencing pipe. It basically had four prongs and a 30mm bolt had been welded to the other end of the about 12cm long piece of pipe.

I clamped the hub in the vice and after drilling away the peenings, I attempted to loosed the old joint. I think I pulled a shoulder muscle while doing this.

I ultimately resorted to using my angle grinder and cutting into the lip of the joint mount and kept working around the lip. You have to be careful that you do not cut too far down and hit the cast steel of the hub itself. Just work away at the metal collar.

What this does is two things. It reduces the amount and therefore strength of the metal collar holding the joint into the hub and it generates a whack of heat into the joint and hub socket and loosens any rust or old locktite. After 10min or so of careful grinding I put the tool back on and minimal effort with a 30mm socket and bar and the joint came undone!

There was enough heat generated in the old joint that the grease etc around the ball started to ooze out around the ball.

I cleaned up the socket, applied some locktite to the new joint thread and screwed it in. I then tightened further using the tool and knocked the peening in. I returned home and had the car back on its wheels in about 90 minutes.

Mrs UFO drove the car to the shops this morning and reports all is fine. It will get a highway test later today.

I might even take a pic of the old joint to show how much I cut away.


--------------------
Craig Keller

'09 C5 HDi Exclusive
'74 D Special
'85 CX 25ie Pallas

Previous
'96 XM V6 Exclusive
'87 BX TRi

http://www.citroencarclub.org.au CCC of NSW Inc

http://www.citroencarclub.org.au/forum Australian Citroen Forum

http://www.aussiefrogs.com Aussiefrogs - Aussies (and others) who drive and love their French cars
PMEmail PosterUsers Website
Top
UFO
Posted: October 09, 2007 12:45 pm


Super Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 323
Member No.: 319
Joined: February 06, 2006




And now there are some pics on my website

http://www.craigdeb.com/photos/thumbnails.php?album=25

wink.gif

user posted image

This post has been edited by UFO on October 09, 2007 12:46 pm


--------------------
Craig Keller

'09 C5 HDi Exclusive
'74 D Special
'85 CX 25ie Pallas

Previous
'96 XM V6 Exclusive
'87 BX TRi

http://www.citroencarclub.org.au CCC of NSW Inc

http://www.citroencarclub.org.au/forum Australian Citroen Forum

http://www.aussiefrogs.com Aussiefrogs - Aussies (and others) who drive and love their French cars
PMEmail PosterUsers Website
Top
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

Topic Options Reply to this topicStart new topicStart Poll

 


Skin arobase par alphega @ PCentraide 2005 (original)
V1.3 par Elianora la blanche @ La Caverne de la Rose pourpre