Tracking, What is the correct tracking for an XM?

I did write two days ago that the safest bet seemed to be to set the front wheels parallel!

Although Peter's tracking system works for him it doesn't appeal to me because I don't like the idea of going under an unsupported car, there also seems to be a lot of mechanical bits in the way in the middle of the engine bay and having seen the amount of runout you can get on tyrewalls I wouldn't trust wall to wall measurements.

I prefer to set my own tracking using a simple home-made jig on the outside of the wheel rim. It comprises two vertical pieces of 30 x 20mm timber, 45cm long and with screwed and glued cross bracing to hold them vertical and with the inside edges 33cm apart. Two pan head SS screws are part screwed into each upright (I use a 15mm protrusion) such that all four contact the wheel rim. If you adjust the screw protrusions to be equal it will be fairly accurate but it really doesn't matter because the front leg of the jig on one side becomes the rear leg on the other, so any minor discrepancies caused by inaccuracies in manufacture cancel each other out.

I use a piece of chalk for contrast and a pencil to mark a line on the garage floor at the outside edge of each of the uprights, then measure side to side with a 2m flexi rule. The accuracy of my method can be demonstrated by moving the car and carrying out the check again.

If you have adjusted the trackrod ends, move the car back at least ten feet and then drive it forward to settle everything before rechecking.

I used this jig on my GS, then on my GSA, BX, three XMs and my wife's ZX . It has a series of different screw holes marked up to suit the different cars.

Thanks for publishing the relevant page, Noz. I was still trying to work out how to do it.

Derek

Hi Derek

If you cant get the car on a ramp of some sort, yours is undoubtedly the best system. I am fortunate to be able to get mine at eye level. Living on a hill, I have been able to construct a ramp at the side of my garage consisting of two large boards and a couple of oil drums, which enables me to drive on and have the wheels at exactly the right height for brake or suspension work and I have a small stool which brings me up to just the right height to do the tracking. I have been using this same system for over 30 years, I have had to replace the oil drums a couple of times but the timber is original! I am looking for some replacement as it is going a bit rotten in places although the oil dropped on to it over the years has helped to preserve it, for the last two or three years it has had a wood wasps nest in it!

Peter.N.

Hi Peter,

Between us we may have pursuaded one or two of our comrades (no political inference intended) to try it themselves.

Your planks on oil drums sounds scary although by now it's well proven., fortunately I can't emulate you, this part of Lincolnshire is flat. The idea of being able to work under a car without ramping it at one end and laying on your back appeals to me. I did look at the possibility of having a pit dug but the water table in Winter here is about three inches below ground level.

Regards,
Derek

Hi Derek

Your only possibility might be to build a ramp with concrete blocks, just two walls and a long run up - if you have the room.

Peter.

Thank you Peter, that bears thinking about.

Derek

Hi

My S2 estate front passenger side tyre is wearing badly on outer edge. The inner edge and driver's tyre both edges are wearing 'normally'. Is this likely to be tracking or should I be looking elsewhere?

Many thanks

Sean

Hi Seanbrazendale.

Have you had the car long --- in other words has this wear become apparent while you've been running it ? If not, someone may have put a previously worn tyre on there ! If it is definitely happening now, but only on the one side, you have to suspect some misalignment of the steering knuckle. Have you checked for worn lower arm bushes; tie rod end, lower ball joint, tired strut top mounting; distorted track rod, arm or damage to the subframe or other impact damage? Bet that's cheered you up !!!!!!! Hope it's nothing too drastic.

Mike.

Mike, you mention strut tops... How much difference is that likely to make? One of mine is quite rusted, the other is bubbling a bit under the rubber whcih is slightly cracked, but doesn't look too bad. Now it happens that the worse of them is the side with the most visible ware on the tyre.

The worse top is being replaced next week anyway, but it got me wondering.

Hi Rowanmoor.

I really don't know, but anything that lets the leg wander outside its design limits is bound to show up somewhere. I think both mine must have been done, or they've lasted exceptionally well and I was surprised when having a play with the wheel balancer how 'floaty' the leg appeared. I know it was off load, but I should think if the tops are tired it must permit more movement than is desirable.

Mike.

Rowanmoor, there have been a number of recorded cases of Series 1 XMs poking their struts through the bonnet when the strut tops fail,

Bubbling under the rubber is considered to be a sign of impending disaster and corrosion around the seating area needs further investigation as a matter of urgency.

Do be careful, we can't afford to lose any more XMs.

Derek

This post has been edited by DerekW on November 29, 2006 08:06 pm

Hi Mike

I've had car for a year. It's definitely happening now. My mileage is small but my brother has borrowed it for the past week and clocked up 1000 miles and the wear is noticeable. I'll book it into the local French state run MOT station for a tracking check and go from there.

Regards

Sean

I think mine are a fair way off yet, but I am getting them changed (one at a time as I have the time to spread the cost) to be safe.

From what I have read with the Xanita's it should not write off the car as long as you can find a replacement bonnet - but many of them seem to be scrapped because of it. I guess people assume it must be more damaging than it is - it does look pretty bad at first sight from the pictures I have seen.

Hi Rowanmoor.

I presume I'm correct in thinking the problem is delamination of the rubber from the metal ? Given these are key parts and expensive by all accounts, I wonder if anyone has looked at getting used ones refurbished ? Clearly when they become NLS, it's going to be a very significant issue. If no one has yet addressed this, if anyone wants to put a duff one aside and arrange with me to collect, post, whatever -- I don't mind having a look into the prospects of reconditioning.

Mike.

I believe theres a Danish or Norweigen guy who sells replacement strut top units, or at least plates fabricated to reinforcre them. I can't remember the details, but I think Mark Bedford has dealt with him. The fella doesn't speak any English AFAIK.

Speaking of strut tops, this is a very stupid question, but what should you be looking for when checking them? I mean there's ones with obvious outward symptoms, visible rust, bubbly rubber etc... but is there any way to tell without dismantling them? Even if they are dismantled, what should a buggered one look like?

Mine seem fine, but I don't want to tempt fate. I'm slightly more concerned about the ones on the Xantia (which isn't currently in use). The tops look ok, but the parts visible in the upper wheel arch, the rubber has started to go a bit crunchy to the touch around the outer edges and not the best looking. Should I be worried?

I have never experienced strut to failure personally, I'm pleased to say, but I have noticed a little corrosion around the tops of the one I have at present, so I just ran some oil round them and they havn't got any worse. Oil is better than grease as it will creep to the underside.

Peter.N.