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> Alarm/plip Probs
demag
Posted: August 20, 2006 11:45 pm


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Well I bought a 2.5TD today, but its got a couple of problems.

I don't collect it till next week so thought I'd gen up as much as pos.

Its a 96 N reg 70k and the guy has put a new battery on this week (its been standing a short while and gone flat)

The plip doesn't work and the rubber cover is missing from the buttons.

The doors open with the key and the alarm starts sounding (he turned the sounder off with the underbonnet key switch) and the headlights flash.

Enter the keypad code and its possible to start the car and drive it as normal but the headlamps are still flashing! Almost like the alarm is still triggered.

He put a new battery in the plip last week. Does it have to be programmed?
Or is there a way to cancel the alarm?

Thanks,

Dave.


--------------------
Dave.

To flush, or not to flush? That is the question..............

2.5TD VSX Hatch
RP 6738

1992 BX16 TXS........Hasn't been well but getting better! Now has driveshaft gaiters and a dry bottom!

Black Country, Staffs.
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Peter.N.
Posted: August 21, 2006 10:58 am


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Hi Dave

Your best bet would be to get a known good plip and reciever from a scrap car. I got a new programmed plip for mine, cost about £80.00 and it still didn't work, so replaced both with secondhand and its been OK ever since. Yours will be a radio type, the reciever is under the glove box.

Peter.N.


--------------------
Used to have:

'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
Located in Charmouth, Dorset. U.K.

Blower transistors MJ 11015
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demag
Posted: August 21, 2006 12:43 pm


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Thanks Peter,

Any idea why the headlamps are still flashing?

Its obviously not imobilized because it drives as normal.

I just don't want to get stopped by plod whilst bringing it home although it will be perfectly legal then.


--------------------
Dave.

To flush, or not to flush? That is the question..............

2.5TD VSX Hatch
RP 6738

1992 BX16 TXS........Hasn't been well but getting better! Now has driveshaft gaiters and a dry bottom!

Black Country, Staffs.
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citroenxm
Posted: August 21, 2006 12:43 pm


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Demag

Cheaper still, sit in the car look at all buttons on dash and find one that has a cross through what looks like a sounder funnel.

Now, open bonnet, disconnet battery, then reconnect, run into car press the switch and hold with the cross on it and switch on ignition. The indicators should all then flash vigrously, this should indi cate Reset ALarm and should stop flashing headlights!

Good luck!

regards
citroenxm


--------------------
1993 K Reg 3.0 V6 12 Valve Auto (Green) LPG S1.5 SORNd
1990 H reg 3.0 V6 24 valve Manual. Grey S1 SORNd
1991 H reg 2.1 SED td Manual, Maroon. SORNd
1992 K reg 2.1 SD Manual. Getting ready to sell on

1998 V reg Xantia HDi Exclusive Silver

Location: YOU'LL NEVER FIND ME!!
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demag
Posted: August 22, 2006 12:05 am


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Ha! I was hoping it would be something straightforward.

Thanks Both. smile.gif


--------------------
Dave.

To flush, or not to flush? That is the question..............

2.5TD VSX Hatch
RP 6738

1992 BX16 TXS........Hasn't been well but getting better! Now has driveshaft gaiters and a dry bottom!

Black Country, Staffs.
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citroenxm
Posted: August 22, 2006 12:36 pm


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Demaq

Good, by the way, you can also STILL activate the DEADLOCKS too.

When you use the key in door lock to lock the car, turn key to lock and HOLD THE KEY IN THE LOCKED position. Deadlocks will then kick in.!!

Unlock in useual way, opposite way, they will automaticlly disarm and unlock

Of course, make sure your battery is good, because if battery dead and deadlocks active, you have no chance of opening doors again!!!

Happy XM'ing

regards
citroenxm


--------------------
1993 K Reg 3.0 V6 12 Valve Auto (Green) LPG S1.5 SORNd
1990 H reg 3.0 V6 24 valve Manual. Grey S1 SORNd
1991 H reg 2.1 SED td Manual, Maroon. SORNd
1992 K reg 2.1 SD Manual. Getting ready to sell on

1998 V reg Xantia HDi Exclusive Silver

Location: YOU'LL NEVER FIND ME!!
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demag
Posted: August 29, 2006 01:46 pm


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Thanks,

Sorted the flashing light problem.

However, I put new batteries in the plip today but it doesn't work sad.gif

It is a radio plip with 2 buttons although looking a bit worse for wear.

I'm a bit puzzled because in the car by the rear view mirror is what looks like an IR receiver similar to the one in my 405. Or is this used for something else?

Does anyone know the RP no. when they changed from IR to radio?

There's a fob programmer just a mile or two from me, would they be able to do me a new fob or are there any oddities on the XM that prevent this?


--------------------
Dave.

To flush, or not to flush? That is the question..............

2.5TD VSX Hatch
RP 6738

1992 BX16 TXS........Hasn't been well but getting better! Now has driveshaft gaiters and a dry bottom!

Black Country, Staffs.
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xmexclusive
Posted: August 29, 2006 02:15 pm


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Hi demag

All Mk2's should be fitted with RF remotes. No rec in the passenger light.
The nearest of my XM's to yours were both 2.5 VSX's Orgs 6590 and 6741 had RF remotes.
Check for a receiver under the glove box (black oblong box 75mmx50mmx25mm).
It should be fixed right in the centre on the dash steel frame.
You will then need to check the plip and rec for matching radio code numbers.

Regards

XMexc


--------------------
An interest in 2.5TD's.
Location: Hampshire, U.K.
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xmexclusive
Posted: August 29, 2006 02:43 pm


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Hi demag

Sorry did not answer the bit about your local fob programmer. Try them by all means but I have not yet come across anyone who can crack or reprogramme the Mk2 XM plips. (4.3M combinations with a rolling code sequence). They may look similar but are actually very different to the Xantia ones which can be swapped between cars with simple resetting.
The XM plip sets can be bought as a matched set from Citroen but the cost is around £300. A new set on ebay last year made over £200. Secondhand rec with a single plip sells for about £60. Buying a replacement plip requires the radio code and is £80 plus £20 for the dealer to sync it to the car when it is finally delivered. I have tried an after market replacement set and got it to work reasonably well but a spare original set then turned up and I used this.
If you are any where near me in Hampshire then I can find a known working set from one of the SORN cars to try in your car to help track down the problem for you.

Regards

XMexc


--------------------
An interest in 2.5TD's.
Location: Hampshire, U.K.
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rowanmoor
Posted: August 29, 2006 05:47 pm


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I got a new PLIP when I first got my XM (I used the code on the sticker inside one of the old dead PLIPs as I knew that was the correct one for the car - just not working - but if you don't know this for sure then you may be better off using the one printed on the reciever). The syncing to the car is not difficult so there should be no need to pay the dealer £20 to do it - just get the PLIP and try it yourself. I'm sure I read the procedure somewhere - either on the web somewhere or it may even have been in the handbook!

I can't remember exactly how I did it, but I think it was similar to the method to program the IR ones to many cars - something along the lines of turn the ignition to the 2nd position and then press the lock/unlock button and hold it for 10 seconds then turn off the ignition and test.

I found that the old dead ones could be made to work by removing the innards so you just have the circuit (with batteries correctly installed) and then put pressure on the chip and making sure you are very close to the car when you try it. I could not manage to get them permanently working though. I have read somewhere that it is a common problem and it is due to the chip falling appart inside.


--------------------
94M XM 2.5 TD VSX Estate RP 6430 Forest Green
Redhill, Surrey.
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Peter.N.
Posted: August 29, 2006 11:26 pm


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If you have very god eyesight and a soldering iron with a very small tip, you can usually repair the plips as they develop numerous dry joints, but as mentioned earlier, after doing this and eventually buying a new one, I had to replace the transmitter and reciever as a pair.

Peter.N.


--------------------
Used to have:

'96 'N' 2.1 td VSX manual estate White RP6695.
'01 'Y' 406 GXL Hdi 110 manual estate silver
'01 C5 estate 2.0. Hdi 110hp manual
Located in Charmouth, Dorset. U.K.

Blower transistors MJ 11015
PMEmail Poster
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demag
Posted: August 30, 2006 07:15 pm


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Yes its definitely radio. Took the interior light cover off today and there's nowt there just an empty space with a partial view of the sunroof motor.

I had a quick look at the pcb on the plip and it does look like there might be one or two dry joints as you said Peter.

I need a decent magnifying glass to see properly but might have a go with the soldering iron to see what happens.

Thanks for the offer xmexc but I'm in the West Mudlands near Walsall and much as I wouldn't mind a drive and see your collection I don't want to put too many miles on yet till I get the cambelt done, probably next week.


--------------------
Dave.

To flush, or not to flush? That is the question..............

2.5TD VSX Hatch
RP 6738

1992 BX16 TXS........Hasn't been well but getting better! Now has driveshaft gaiters and a dry bottom!

Black Country, Staffs.
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Top
demag
Posted: September 01, 2006 09:00 pm


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I got a "helping hands" from Maplins yesterday and a small tip soldering iron. I have resoldered most of the joints on the plip and sprayed the two buttons with electrical cleaner then blown the lot dry with compressed air.

Where as before when pressing a button I used to get a dull glow from the led, I now get a bright flash! So this is definitely an improvement. But I think the buttons are shot as occasionally I still get the dull glow, then if I mess with the buttons the glow goes out. There is a lot of play in them so I think they are due for replacement. RS Components list some that look near enough identical so I'll try and get a couple and have another go next week.

I tried your syncing method rowanmoor but got nothing, however I still haven't checked the receiver yet.

Here's hoping. smile.gif


--------------------
Dave.

To flush, or not to flush? That is the question..............

2.5TD VSX Hatch
RP 6738

1992 BX16 TXS........Hasn't been well but getting better! Now has driveshaft gaiters and a dry bottom!

Black Country, Staffs.
PM
Top
xmexclusive
Posted: September 01, 2006 09:50 pm


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Hi demag

The other possibility is a crack in one of the printed circuit board copper tracks. This is a common problem with many pcbs used in a location subject to vibration. If the replacement switches do not make it work then try examining the pcb tracks under a high power magnifying glass looking for hair line cracks.

Regards

XMexc


--------------------
An interest in 2.5TD's.
Location: Hampshire, U.K.
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rowanmoor
Posted: September 11, 2006 05:01 pm


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Following a problem whilst on holiday I had cause to use the re-syncing procedure and can confirm that what I wrote was correct.

My plip stopped working wit hthe red light permanently on. Does anyone know if this is a common sign of battery failure. After a while (few days) the light went out and the buttons did nothing. Then after another day or so it was back to mornal, but out of sync with the car. A quick re-sync and it all worked - but with a vary short range (so I have ordered some new batteries).

Unfortunatly I found another problem with the locks due to this - the deadlock turns on immedialty when using the key (not after the few seconds holding the key) and the central locking is tempremental when it comes to unlocking with the key (both doors). A deadlocked car and 2 toddlers to get in the back was not a good combination rolleyes.gif

Cheers,
Rowan.


--------------------
94M XM 2.5 TD VSX Estate RP 6430 Forest Green
Redhill, Surrey.
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