Re:problems To Solve!

[Little&Large]

Hi all
Just got back from Sunny Yorkshire....having bought the Silver Ebay XM from Rotherham. The description wasn't very comprehensive(luckily)but the car has only done 112K with a full service history(Citroen Main dealer to 80K and then 1 independant until 109K)and a bundle of receipts to back most of the book stamps up.New spheres all around,new tires,new injectors etc.Cam belt had been done at 72K and it has been serviced every 6K.
As you might guess there are some problems with it! First the sunroof doesn't work!No surprises there. It does sound as though it just can't get started in both modes(it is straight in the aperture and doesn't leak),an AA report mentioned it was slow to start in 2001.Is there anything that can be done to "grease the wheels" so to speak.I don't want to start taking the head lining off,but I hope some access might be made behind the switch/light panel.It has Air Con which I was assured worked...but when I set it to 15 and switched it on,it didn't feel very cold....but then again the outside temp was 16 degrees so maybe it wouldn't,any way something to investigate further.Next problem is the ABS light which is on all the time.Vaguely remebering other topics about this it may be a sensor?Where are they and how do I check/clean them?The ABS appears to work,I tried an emergency stop in the wet and it just stopped dead with no skid at all.(on my 2.1,the light goes out nicely,but the ABS does not appear to work though!).
The problem I am most anxious to fix is this.The car starts well and idles nicely at about 700rpm.However there is a rattling /groaning noise from the front right of the engine bay.If you increase the revs by only 100-150 this stops.The engine itself is very quiet.The noise appears to be coming from the pulley at the front of the engine on the left as you look at it.When the car is idling(...and groaning) the belt appears to be quite loose and slightly flapping(almost).The belt doesn't look frayed.When you stop the car the belt does seem to be quite loose(but it still turns etc,it does not slip on the pulley wheel).Any ideas and how do I fix it?
I had grown quite attached to my 2.1,so it was quite a difference to drive this one.
I much prefer the looks of the Series 1.Mine was very low slung and I really liked the way it looked.This one is very much higher and presumably at the correct height due to the new speres etc.
Anyway,I will end now as I am knackered.
Many thanks to everyone for all the emails and help-much appreciated as always.
Regards Rob

[Ciaran]

Hi Rob,

The pully you mention that's making the noise sounds like the LHM pump, from the position that you describe.
Funny, on my 2.1TD, my belt slips and squeals on the pump pully when it goes under load (by steering movement, for example), and I also noticed that the belt looks very loose / slaps about, as you mentioned.
I haven't yet tried tensioning the belt, but I suspect that may help you.

[Little&Large]

Hi Ciaran
Thanks for your email.I am sure that is what the pump is as it has lots of pipes coming out of it!!My symptons are the opposite to yours,as soon as the revs increase a little it stops!I think the iding rpm should be 950rpm for a 2.5 with A/C(mine is idling at the 1st marker down which is possibly 800rpm),and when it runs at that speed(950rpm) the problem stops(or appears to stop).
Help Noz...where are you?
Regards Rob

[Ciaran]

Hi again Rob,

My pump actually stops squealing with revs too... I think I worded the last post badly

When you load the pump, by steering or suspension movement, it squeals, but if the revs are increased it stops. I can't say exactly what speed it's running at, as my rev counter doesn't work !

Did you have any luck with yours ?

This post has been edited by Ciaran on May 16, 2006 10:40 pm

[DerekW]

Hi Rob,

Late again I'm afraid.

Reference your comment "this one is very much higher and presumably at the correct height due to the new spheres etc.", the state of the spheres has no effect on the ride height. This is controlled solely by the height corrector.

I believe the Series 1 and 2 cars both ride at the same height so it is possible your new one needs adjusting. Ride height is important because it affects road holding - because of the raised c of g. It also means that the drive shafts don't lie in a straight line between differential and wheel so the cv joints have to work overtime with increased wear and a small power penalty too.

Don't know if I'm "teaching Grandmother to suck eggs" but ride height is adjusted by slackening and rotating a pair of clamps on the front and rear anti roll bars. Suffice to say that this can be extremely dangerous and should never be attempted on an unsupported car.

Derek

[Little&Large]

Hi Derek
I think this one is at the correct height...the old car was knackered and didn't rise as high as it should.The top 1" of the rear wheels were still up in the wheel arches!
Thanks for your reply.
Regards rob

[noz]

Hi Rob,

Sorry I've been working abroad for a couple of weeks and can only get to the forum sporadically. I must have missed your post.

Cheers

noz