Clutch Drag

Oh dear,

I seem to have a few problems creeping up on me now. The gearchange has deteriorated since I bought the car. The clutch pedal requires a good push to the floor to get a decent change. I see the mechanism is very Citroenesque! A sealed hydraulic master and slave system. And according to Haynes half the car has to be stripped to extract it! From neutral to 1st or reverse are both stiff. The rest not bad when the car is moving.

Does anyone know if its likely to be lack of pressure in the release mechanism causing the problem? And if so are the parts telephone number prices? The old Pug 405 had one of these pull type clutches and that was a pain up the bum as well. I shudder to think the cost of having a clutch done!

Hi demag

A 2.5 clutch should be good for around 200k miles. Failure is usually noticed initally by slipping in top gear under heavy load. What mileage has yours done?
It does sound as though yours is a clutch actuator problem. Unfortunately the hydraulic actuator plugs straight into the gearbox so there is no actuator arm to check for correct movement. I was quoted £170 for a new hydraulic drive and £1500 to do a 2.5 clutch about 3 years ago. That car is SORN until I can do it myself.

Regards

XMexc

I asked my garage about the clutch change a while ago. The book time is something like 21 hours and is a complete engine removal job.

They said they would have a go at just shifting the engine over in the bay and see if they could do it without removing everything if it ever needs doing.

My father in law had a Rover 75 clutch done recently - that involved removing the wheel, suspension and lots else I gather.

You don't have to move the engine! Move the gearbox instead - it's lighter. It can be done but it is awkward and heavy work so I can understand why Citroen recommend removing the engine to do the clutch.
Word of warning - get the Citroen manual to tell you all about the hydrauliic clutch system. It's not like ordinary ones and needs the proper technique. I can copy it to you when the time comes.
Unless you can find someone who has done it before, you won't get any change out of £600 plus a £200 clutch unit.

I think you're right xmex. There's definitely no slip, it pulls like a train in any gear!
I only have drag and I would also assume this is the release mechanism. The car's only done 75k now.

I get the feeling it was standing for a while before I bought it. Here and there are traces of green verdigris (?) On a few glass areas in the corners and behind a few rubber door seals. I know the fellow who owned it before me hadn't been too good for a while. Maybe the leaking suspension cylinder and possible leaking clutch release could be down to this.

Has anyone replaced the slave and master at all? Haynes make it sound like a huge job. Personally I would have thought it possible to change them in a day but I have been known to be wrong on odd occasions.

Hi demag

I have the remains of a 2.5 with the whole of the clutch drive insitu but visible/exposed for photographs before I complete the stripping. It runs across the car from the pedals to the passenger foot well then through the front bulkhead under LHM tank and battery box where it turns into the gearbox.
I agree with you that it can be got at without stripping too much.
Will see if I can post some photos unless you want to come and take a look.

Regards

XMexc

Thanks Xmexc that would be great.

I feel sure that XMexclusive knows but others may not. The clutch hydraulic system is removed in two parts. The break point is at the hydraulic coupling at the bulkhead and should not be uncoupled more than 4 - 5 times if I remember correctly. Not that it is likely to happen very often (unless you have had that many replacement clutches) As usual, Citroën supply a special tool to open the coupling, but a locally made one will no doubt work just as well.

Hi demag,

I've never tried to remove or replace the clutch mechanism on the 2.5 but it looks like a B%^*$*(. So, it would be worthwhile checking some basics before a full scale launch.

Crawl under the steering wheel and remove the thin carpet material which hides the mess above. Shine a torch at the hydraulic fluid cylinder to see if it has any fluid in it. If its low then that could be your problem. I know that it says its sealed and shouldn't be touched but since when have we obeyed the rule book. We all drive XM's don't we? Even if filling the reservoir is a bit of a chore its still got to be better than wrestling the whole thing out of there complete with the attendant cost.

Let us know what you find regarding the reservoir.

cheers

noz

Have you any idea what fluid is in the 2.5 clutch operating mechanism, Noz?

Hi Techman,

The manual doesn't say because "Its sealed for life and requires no maintenance". But thinking logically it must be 'normal' SAE brake fluid. Why use something as exotic as LHM for example on such a simple device? The chances are that its a bought in part from a brake specialist rather than a Citroen part. One quick test is to taste it. If its very bitter hen its likely to be SAE but if it tastes failry neutral then its likely to be mineral ie LHM. Colour should also be a reasonable guide.

cheers

noz

Hi All

Thanks for the follow up comments on the bits about the clutch drive I missed out.
I seem to remember a Citroen warning that for reuse the two halves of the hydraulic drive must be kept as a pair and not to mix recovered bits to make up replacement clutch drive.
I also recall that there are some special instructions about removing and reinserting the clutch drive in the bellhousing. There was also a caution about preventing the clutch being depressed until the clutch and drive is completely rebuilt.

Regards

XMexc

This post has been edited by xmexclusive on January 06, 2007 08:34 pm